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Like Arish Agoriuq

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

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From the very beginning, I’ve imagined the Ninot jacket as part of a suit. So when I bought the fabric for the jacket, I took enough for a pencil skirt as well.
I just love the contrast of the fitted skirt and the boxy swing jacket.

 

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The post is called “Like Arish Agoriuq” because she is one my favorite character right now. She’s the main character of “El Tiempo Entre Costuras” a TV serie set in the 40’s in Spain. Arish is her spy name while living in Madrid as a very stylish seamstress.
I love the show for the fashion: the 40’s were so elegant! In the serie, Arish is wearing a lot of two pieces suits with pencil skirts, blazer jackets and big fur collars. You can see more pictures here.

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The skirt is the typical pencil skirt with a kick pleat at the back. I made the pattern. The wool crepe is so soft, it’s the perfect fabric for such a suit. I’m wearing it with a light pink detachable faux-fur collar from H&M. I think this will be my Christmas outfit…
I wish you a Merry Christmas! I’m going home to France in my family but the shop is going to stay open during the holidays (last minute gift?). After the holidays I’ll be back with a serie of tutorials on the Ninot jacket, stay tuned!
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Ninot Jacket Pattern

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
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It’s a jacket! You were a few to have guessed in the right direction, the buttonholes might have helped.

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The Ninot Jacket is a short swing jacket, with a deep inverted pleat in the back. This style was very fashionable during the 40’s and 50’s (and you know how much I love these years…). As much as I love a fitted jacket, I think the small volume given by the back pleat makes it ideal for an everyday jacket, with enough structure to look sophisticated for the evening in the right fabric (think tweed with some lurex or brocade, amazing no?).
And for the “Couture” touch, bound buttonholes and welt pockets.

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There are 2 versions of the jacket:

Version A is fully lined and has a Peter Pan collar. It’s perfect for making in wool crepe (like the burgundy one above), wool, flannel, tweed, brocade… Winter time fabrics! And why not add a little faux-fur to the collar and cuffs like the green version above? It feels so luxurious…
Version B is unlined (seam allowances are finished with bias binding for a clean and fun finish). It’s collarless and has button back and sleeve tabs. It would be a cute jacket for spring made in gabardine, linen or cotton twill for example (with contrasting bias binding).
There are minimum tailoring techniques (the bound buttonholes can be replaced by machine-made buttonholes), the sewing level required is intermediate (a tutorial serie is already planned).
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I hope you like the Ninot Jacket. Feel like making it? Buy the pattern here!
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My makesSewing projects

Fall/Winter Sewing Plan

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Let’s continue with Fall/Winter sewing: after the inspiration, let me show you what I plan on sewing.

Hopefully the weather will behave and the temperatures will go down (but I really don’t know, I might just wear my bikini and go to the beach this afternoon. I’m not joking!).

The fabric is mine and the illustrations are to give you an idea of the shape, but I will draft my own patterns (you might even see some of them later if I am happy of how they turned out!)

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-1I have this beautiful burgundy wool that will be perfect for a jacket/skirt ensemble. I’m thinking of a short swing jacket and a pencil skirt with knife pleats at the back. And the light pink lining for a little bit of contrast.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-2With the same pattern as the short swing jacket, I want to make a swing coat. I will just make it longer (or I hope it will work like that). I have a bright baby blue wool/cotton fabric with a diamond pattern in relief. With a bright green lining, it will be a very nice coat to brighten the winter.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-3These two combinations are for skirts: A-line skirts with pleats. I need more skirts, I have lots of dresses but very few skirts. So I will add two for the winter: one in wool tweed in green, pink and brown with a bottle green lining and the other one in purple wool with blue/purple lining.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-4And a winter Camí dress of course! 3/4 sleeves or long, I still don’t know. I have a nice cotton/wool fabric but I might have to change the collar, it might be too heavy. It’s dark grey with purple leaves, very subtle.

Are you ready for next week? I’m so excited to show you the new pattern. I really hope you’ll like it!

It will be out on Thursday! Monday I’ll let you know more…

Have a great week end and see you then…

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Tweed Ride

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
Have you heard about the Tweed Ride phenomenon?
The Tweed Rides are bicycle rides through a city, where the riders are dressed in early 20th century fashion (from the 20’s to the 50’s). Vintage bikes are more than welcome of course!
Well, last Sunday was the first Tweed Ride Valencia and it was a huge success!

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We were more than 200 persons for the very first time it was organised in Valencia and as you can see in the picture, people really dressed up!
Of course, I had to make something for the occasion! It’s not like I really need any excuse but come on, it would have been a pity not to sew something special. And not only for me, for my man too!
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Tweed seems like a good idea in October, but in Valencia, not so much. We were all sweating (ok, the men were because they were all wearing wool socks, vests, jackets, hats… so sartorials) but at least we were fashionable!
I made my boyfriend a vest and a cap from the same fabric. Both are from Burda (who knew Burda was so vintage-forward?): the vest is #136 and the cap #142 from the April issue 2013.
As for my dress, I made it from Vintage Vogue 2787 pattern, a reproduction from 1948. I used a nice crepe georgette I had for a long time. I also made a little faux-fur capelet (that I didn’t wear because of the heat) completed by my own hat and leather gloves (hand-sweating is so disgusting).

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Here we are with my friends Gloria and Joan (they own the best teashop ever: La Petite Planèthé). Gloria wore one of my dresses for a 50’s style. She looks adorable!

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And finally, a picture with the beautiful Nay! She’s a photograph and took so many pictures of the evnt while being so stylish.
And these two little girls were so cute and nice!
So I’ll leave you with them, you’re in good company…

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Sailor Trousers

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Hello Sailor!

 

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This is my 1srt pair of trousers! Aren’t they cute? I am sure they are made to be worn by a tall model like in the Burda magazine (and not a very short girl like me) but they caught my eyes last year when the issue came out and I had to have them. It took some time (and I don’t even have the fabric excuse: I bought that denim fabric as soon as I opened the magazine and had it over a year in my stash especially for that purpose). I was scared of sewing trousers, here’s the truth!
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The pattern is Burda 125 from April 2012, high waisted sailor pants with side button placket. The fit is easy to achieve as the legs are very wide. I didn’t make any change to the pattern, only hemmed the leg wayyyyyyyyyy higher:) The most difficult part is the back welt pocket, but as that wasn’t my first, I didn’t have any problem.
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Do you like my photoshop tattoo?
The button placket is lined with a red and white cotton fabric I had left. Behind the placket, there is a zipper to close the trousers. This is a quite clever opening and a nice detail. Speaking about details, I added gold buttons with an anchor for an even more sailory touch!
As for the denim, it’s light and nice to work with. But way to warm to wear for more than 10 minutes with the weather we’re having this summer. But I’m sure that they will be perfect trousers for the fall…

sailor-trousers-sewing-pattern-4sailor-trousers-sewing-pattern-5I feel very “pin up” while wearing these trousers, they have a 1940’s vibe for me. With a tank top or a crop shirt tied on the front, they would look so cute! And very high heels of course!
I wish you a nice week!


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