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Alameda Sew-Along

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Alameda Sew-Along: finishing

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
Here it is, the last viedo of the #AlamedaSewAlong!
In this video, you’ll see how to insert the invisible zipper, attach the lining with a fellstitch and stitch the hem with bias binding.

Watch directly on Youtube.
I hope you enjoyed the videos and the Sew-Along. Let me know if you have any questions and send me pictures of your Alameda dresses when you have finish!!!
Have a great week-end…
And see you next week with some big news (new pattern release!)…

 

 

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Alameda Sew-Along: the skirt

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
The Alameda dress is taking shape little by little: you now have your complet bodice with lining.
Today, we’ll see how to make the skirt of the Alameda, the skirt lining and join them to the bodice:

Watch the video directly in Youtube.

Let’s meet on Saturday for the last step of the #AlamedaSewAlong!

 

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Alameda Sew-Along: Piping!

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Today, we’ll start with the first video tutorial of the #AlamedaSewAlong! Yeah!

I had a lot of fun last spring making the videos for the Carme blouse Sew-Along and you were a lot to tell me that it was a huge help to have these visual tutorials, so here come the Alameda videos!

You’ll recognize the music 😉

Piping is a great decorative option and such an easy way to add a pop of colour to your Alameda dress. I invite you to see the inspiration boards to get ideas on what colour you want to choose: contrast, patterned piping, the same colour, leather…

And remember that you can buy it already-made or you can make it yourself! See for yourself on this tutorial I made back in April.

To watch the video in Youtube, click here.

I hope you liked it. See you on Monday with the bodice video…

 

 

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Alameda Sew-Along: Lengthen/Shorten the bodice and connect two sizes

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Today we’ll see how to make simple changes to the Alameda pattern: how to lengthen or shorten the bodice and how to connect two sizes together on the skirt part.

Note: If you have made a Full Bust Adjustment according to the previous tutorial, you have noticed that the front bodice is slightly longer than before. If you want to lengthen/shorten it as well, do it after the FBA so that you modify all the bodice pieces the same way.

First, let’s lengthen the bodice:

1. Draw a line parallel to the waistline on all the bodice pattern pieces (nº 1, 2, 3 and 4). I made mine about 5 cm (2″) from the bottom.
2. Cut along the line and place the pieces over a piece of paper. Add the length you need between each piece and tape in place. Make sure you add the same amount between all the pieces.
And now, let’s shorten the bodice, you’ll see it’s even easier:

1. Overlap the pieces by the length you need to remove. Make sure you remove the same length on all the bodice pieces. Tape together.

If you need to connect 2 different sizes on the skirt pieces, here’s how to do it:

1. With a ruler, connect two lines together (in red 40-42 and in blue 42-46 for exemple, but not more than  an 2 size difference) by drawing a new line from the top to the bottom. Repeat this step on all the skirt pieces and don’t forget to change the marks placement.

There you go! These changes were quite easy and will help you get the best possible fit for your Alameda dress.

Ask any questions you have in the comments section…

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Alameda Sew-Along: Full Bust Adjustment for Princess Seams

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

 

Today we’ll see how to make a Full Bust Adjustment on the princess seam of the Alameda dress pattern. But first, you might be wondering: How do I know if I need a FBA?
Well, it’s not that difficult. The first clue is that you have more than a B bra cup (sorry to all the ladies with bosom, as the patterns are drafted by a small chested girl – me! – this fitted design will need a FBA to get fit on you). You also want to make a FBA if:
  • compared to all your measurements, your bust measurements is one (or more) size bigger.
  • when you made your muslin, you went for a bigger size for the bust but have now some extra fabric at the armscye.
  • the waistline is pulling up at the front.
Let’s take an example: Maria’s measurements are bust 92 cm (36″), waist 70 cm (27 1/2″) and hips 95 cm (37 1/4″). For the waist and hips, she should cut a size 38 but her bust belongs to size 40. The problem if she cuts size 40 for the bust and 38 for the waist and hips is that the armscye and shoulder lines will also belong to size 40, which will be too big for her and most likely there will be some extra fabric where the princess seam starts and at the shoulder seams. The solution is to cut the pattern pieces in 38 and add extra volume only in the bust area.
And of course make a muslin before to check the fit and correct the adjustments!
Let’s see how to make the Full Bust Adjustment:
1Let’s take Maria’s measurements again: her bust measurement is 92 cm (36″) when the one corresponding to her size 38 is 88 cm (34 1/2″), there is a 4 cm (1 1/2″) difference. She’ll cut the pattern in size 38 and add 2 cm (3/4″) at each bust seam to make the full bust adjustment, without increasing the waistline or the neckline.

1. Take your pattern bodice front and bodice side front pieces. Draw the seam allowances and all the marks (notches, grainline…).On the bodice side front, we’re going to draw 3 lines:

  •    1: from the waistline to the fullest part of the bust.
  •    2: from 1/3 of the armhole (remember that the armhole is made of the the front and side front bodice pieces) to the fullest part of the bust.
  •   3: from the fullest part of the bust, draw a diagonal line toward the side seam allowance, like a dart.
32. Cut lines 1 and 2 and stop when you reach the seam allowance.
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3. Cut the seam allowance but make sure it’s still attached.
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4. Cut line 3 and stop just before you reach the fullest part of the bust.
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5. Tape the princess seam to a piece of paper and pivot the pattern along lines 1, 2 and 3 so that the opening at line 1 measures the  2 cm (3/4″) increase we need. Make sure the 2 cm (3/4″) increase is even all the way down line 1. Tape the pattern in place on the paper.
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6. As you can see, the waistline is not even. Draw a line parallel to the waistline on the princess seam part.
7. Cut along the line and place the small piece on the continuity of the waistline, 2 cm (3/4″) from line 1. Tape.
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8. Cut roughly around the new pattern piece.
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9. Draw a line extending line 3 to the princess seam.
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10. Cut along line 3 until you reach the first pivot. Close the “dart” and tape.
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11. Cut the line 3 from the princess seam to the pivot. Place a piece of paper under the spread “dart” and tape.
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12. We need to take 2 cm (3/4″) in at the side seam to keep the waistline the original width (this is the measurement we added at the bust). Draw a new side seam starting from line 3 and ending 2 cm (3/4″) from the waistline edge.
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13. Now we need to add the increases we made to the side front piece to the front. Trace 2 lines at the same level you made the increases.
14. Measure how much you added to the side front piece and report that on the front piece. For the bust, measure the seam allowance line, not the cutting line.
15. Here you go: your new pattern pieces!  We have increased the bust area without touching to the waistline, armhole or neckline.
If you have any questions, let me know in the comments.
Are you going to make a FBA?

 

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Alameda Sew-Along: Style Inspiration

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

After choosing your fabric for the Alameda dress, let’s see some style inspiration to help you decide how to combine the colours, patterns or different fabrics to get the perfect dress!

You can use contrasting piping (buy it already made or make your own following this tutorial), contrasting panels, mix and match the skirt and top fabrics, go for a day version or a party look… there are so many options!

 

source: 1, 2, 3

Use different colours or patterned and plain fabrics on the different pattern pieces. For example dark colours on the outside will make you waist appear smaller (great visual trick!). And what about making the flounce in leather? With maybe leather piping? Perfect for the rock’n roll chicks.

source: 1, 2, 3

Prints are great! For a nautical look, go for stripes. Want to emulate the Dolce & Gabbana spanish look, polka dots will be your friends. And for the more romantics, florals can never go wrong.

source: 1, 2, 3
The Alameda dress can go from day to night in no time: just choose the right fabric. How about a brocade? And lace would look amazing as well (remember to underline the dress) for a wedding. Bright colours are a favourite of mine. Leave the piping out and add a big bow for fun.
source: 1, 2, 3
Last but not least, a Fall/Winter version in tweed is really elegant. Worn with a cardigan and tights, the Alameda will make a cute dress for work and for going out on the week-end.
I hope this has given you a lot of ideas for your
Alameda. If you have any questions, let me know here in the comments.

 

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Alameda Dress Sew-Along!

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

 

How do you feel about a Sew-Along?
You’ve been asking for one for the new pattern, the Alameda dress, so I thought I would repeat the experience and prepare some videos for you like for the Carme blouse (you seemed to like it, no?).
The Alameda dress is not difficult, it’s an intermediate seamstress level, but I think a beginner with good bases would be more than ready to make it. The more complex steps are adding the piping to the princess seams, stitch the lining and the invisible zipper. And with the help of a Sew-Along, no need to fear these techniques.
Let’s see what we’ll cover in the first week:
  • Choose the right fabric and lining for your Alameda
  • Make the ajustements (FBA and SBA, shortening or lengthening, join different sizes)
Then we’ll start with the video tutorials:
  • Stitch the piping
  • Make the bodice and bodice lining
  • Sew the skirt (with pocket option)
  • Attach the zipper
  • Finish (fellsticth and hem)
Grab your Alameda Sew-Along button, prepare your hastags #AlamedaSewAlong, get the pattern if you don’t have it (Alameda Dress pattern) and #paulinealice and start thinking about your fabric. We’ll talk about that on Monday, July 21st for the official start of the Alameda Sew-Along!

 

 

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