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Camí dress

Let’s continue with Fall/Winter sewing: after the inspiration, let me show you what I plan on sewing.

Hopefully the weather will behave and the temperatures will go down (but I really don’t know, I might just wear my bikini and go to the beach this afternoon. I’m not joking!).

The fabric is mine and the illustrations are to give you an idea of the shape, but I will draft my own patterns (you might even see some of them later if I am happy of how they turned out!)

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-1I have this beautiful burgundy wool that will be perfect for a jacket/skirt ensemble. I’m thinking of a short swing jacket and a pencil skirt with knife pleats at the back. And the light pink lining for a little bit of contrast.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-2With the same pattern as the short swing jacket, I want to make a swing coat. I will just make it longer (or I hope it will work like that). I have a bright baby blue wool/cotton fabric with a diamond pattern in relief. With a bright green lining, it will be a very nice coat to brighten the winter.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-3These two combinations are for skirts: A-line skirts with pleats. I need more skirts, I have lots of dresses but very few skirts. So I will add two for the winter: one in wool tweed in green, pink and brown with a bottle green lining and the other one in purple wool with blue/purple lining.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-4And a winter Camí dress of course! 3/4 sleeves or long, I still don’t know. I have a nice cotton/wool fabric but I might have to change the collar, it might be too heavy. It’s dark grey with purple leaves, very subtle.

Are you ready for next week? I’m so excited to show you the new pattern. I really hope you’ll like it!

It will be out on Thursday! Monday I’ll let you know more…

Have a great week end and see you then…

pauline-sewing-pattern

8 November, 2013 9 comments
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Congratulation to all of you! You’ve made amazing dresses!
So let’s start and show your beautiful creations:

 

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French seamstress, Charlotte from Hector&Celestine, made a lovely red and white Camí. Look at the fabric, isn’t it pretty? (I have the very same!).
cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-3Wow! Jen’s dress is amazing! Read more about it at her blog Tea for Two (she shares it with her twin sister, how cool is that?).

cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-4Kirsty’s gorgeous Liberty fabric looks so good. You can see more pictures of it here: Top notch.

cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-5 Alicia did a great job with her Camí, I love the colourful fabric. She blogs at Una Modista de Pacotilla.

cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-6Another bold fabric: Claire from I want to be a turtle made a beautiful bright Camí. Perfect to brighten the coming winter…
cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-7Elle went for a total vintage look and I love the contrast cuffs, collar and button placket. If you want to read more about her dress, go check her blog Busy Elle Bee: she’s made a very complete review of the Sew-Along.
cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-8cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-9Maider from Masustak eguzkitan made such a pretty dress, I had to include a detail picture of the fabric (I want the same).
cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-10Smaida’s winter version is very elegant. See more pictures of her dress on her blog SewMeow.
cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-11Lara from Dreaming of Avonlea made a shirt version from the Camí pattern. Isn’t it great?
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Nathalie was a pattern tester but her beautiful dress never got shown on the blog. It deserves to be as it was the first ever dress she made! See more on her blog Made in Home.
Now, if your dress is not here, please send me an email with the picture (paulineyalice @ gmail.com) and I’ll add it!

And now the GIVEAWAY!

cami-sew-along-parade-pattern-13The lucky winner of the next pauline alice pattern is…………. JEN from Tea for Two!
As soon as the pattern is out, I’ll send it to you!

Thank to all of you for participating to the Sew-Along, I hope you had fun and that you enjoyed sewing the Camí dress pattern.

pauline-sewing-pattern

25 October, 2013 14 comments
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I can now show you the Camí dress I made for the Sew-Along! I used a floral cotton fabric and a white cotton sateen for the contrasted collar and cuffs (that’s a look I saw on a Dolce & Gabanna dress and I thought I could try to make a modest replica).
Now I really looking forward to show all your pretty dresses on the 25th…
And I remind you that there will be one lucky winner of the next pattern during the giveaway!

 

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pauline-sewing-pattern

16 October, 2013 32 comments
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Hello,
I am one day late for this post, sorry… I am working on the new pattern and got carried away.
But we still have to finish our Camí dress so let’s get to it.
You’ll need to hem your skirt.
Press and you’re ready to go!
HEMMING THE SKIRT

cami-sew-along-pattern-1

1.Because my fabric is busy and medium-weight, I’ll machine stitch the hem. You might prefer to use a blind hem stitch or hand-stitch the hem if you don’t want your hem to show.
First, baste a row of stitches 2 cm (6/8″) from the bottom edge.
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2.Press the fabric with the basting line going inside.
cami-sew-along-pattern-3
3.Using the first fold as a guide, fold over again and press. Stitch at 2 cm (6/8″) from the border (if you have an edgestitching foot, now is the moment to use it to get a really straight sticthing line!). If you want to go back to previous step, all the Sew-Along post are here.
THE END!
I’ll show you my finished dress tomorrow.
Now it’s also time for you to take pictures of your Camí dress so we can all see your beautiful creations!
So get to your sewing machine and send me a picture with a link to your blog post (if you have one) by email (paulineyalice @ gmail . com) or post it on the flickr page.
And to get it even more exiting, I’ll be drawing one of you for a special prize. Submit your Camí dress and you’ll have a chance to win the new pauline alice pattern (coming out in November). You have until Thursday 24th of October to send your picture.
Have a great week!
 pauline-sewing-pattern
15 October, 2013 5 comments
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It’s the final countdown! Tadadada Tadadada Tadadada Tadadadadada!
Sure that you have the song stuck in your head for the rest of the day now (at least I got it),  so it’s the perfect time to insert the zipper in our dress and start the final countdown of the Sew-Along: penultimate step!
I am going to show you how to insert a regular zipper. But if you prefer to have an invisible zipper, there are a lot of great tutorial on Youtube. The only difference would be to stitch the side seam after inserting the invisible zipper.
INSERT A REGULAR ZIPPER
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1.Take the left side of the dress, pin the zipper opening right sides together and baste it (by hand or by machine). You might want to finish your seam allowances before depending of the finishing technic you are using (here, turned-and-stitched seams).

cami-sew-along-zipper-pattern-2

2.Press the zipper opening seams open.

cami-sew-along-zipper-pattern-33.If your zipper is too long, secure the teeth closed by stitching over them at the desired length and cut the zipper at least 3 cm longer (1,2″).

cami-sew-along-zipper-pattern-44.Place the zipper face down with the teeth on top of the seam allowances. Match the zipper top to the beginning of the zipper opening. Pin or baste in place. Make sure the zipper is well centered.

cami-sew-along-zipper-pattern-55.With the dress on the right side, stitch all around the zipper, using a regular zipper foot, following the basting line or the pins. When you are done, remove the bastings.
The last step will be to hem the dress so let’s see each other on Monday! When your dress is ready, don’t forget to send me a picture with a link to your blog or/and post for the virtual Catwalk we’ll be having the following week!
Get all the Sew-Along posts here.

pauline-sewing-pattern

11 October, 2013 8 comments
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I love a full gathered skirt. It’s dramatic and so vintage looking as its emphasize the small of the waist and hides the hips, but sometimes, if your fabric is a little bit on the heavy side, you don’t feel like adding too much volume to your waist seam line.
So let’s see how your can draw a circle skirt for an amazing vintage look as well as a sleeker figure.
This pattern is to be cut twice on fold.
DRAW A CIRCLE SKIRT (PATTERN TO CUT TWICE ON FOLD)

 

cami-sew-along-skirt-variation-add-lining-pattern-11.Get the finished measurement of the dress waist on the instruction page 2. For example, if you are making size 36, the waist finished measurement is 69 cm (27″). Divide it by 3,14 to obtain the diameter of your circle skirt pattern.
69 / 3,14 = 22 cm (approx.)
Then you need to divide it by 2 to have the radius.
22 / 2 = 11 cm
2.Start your pattern drawing a line the desired length of your skirt (for me 50 cm/20″ is a great length) and of your radius. For me, that would be a total of 61 cm (24″).
3.Draw a perpendicular line with the same length. Draw the waistline connecting the radius points in a nice and even curve. Do the same for the hem line.
4.Add the following seam allowances: 1,5 cm (5/8″) at 1 side seam and the waistline (not on the drawing, sorry) and the desired length at the hem. Draw a “cut on fold” bracket on the other side seam and you’re done.
ADD A LINING
1.This one is very easy! If your fabric is see-through or too light, you might want to line it. Take your skirt pattern and cut the 2 pieces in your lining fabric. Stitch the side seams together leaving the zipper opening unstitched and gather the waistline.
2.Attach the lining to your finished skirt before sewing it to the bodice. Treat the skirt and lining as one when attaching it to the bodice and setting the zipper in.
3.Hem the lining slightly higher than the skirt.

 

pauline-sewing-pattern
9 October, 2013 8 comments
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I guess you’re looking forward to finish your Camí dress, no? Well, with today’s step, it’s going to be almost done and you’ll be able to try it and see the overall look and fit.
We are going to sew the pockets, gather the skirt and attach it to the bodice. I don’t know about you, but for me, the perfect garment (whether it is a dress, a skirt or a jacket for example) has to have pockets. They are to practical and it’s always a cute detail to add.
DRAW THE SKIRT PIECES
1.Following the instructions, draw the 2 skirts pieces and mark the zipper opening and the pocket start and end.
If you wish to make a circle skirt, there will be a tutorial on how to draw your own circle skirt pattern on Wednesday 9th.
STITCH THE POCKETS
 cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-1
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-2
1.Match the pocket marks to the skirt marks and pin right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-32.Fold the pocket over and press the seam allowances toward the pocket.
Repeat with the other pocket on the opposite side and the two other pockets on the other skirt piece.
STITCH THE SKIRT PIECES TOGETHER

 

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-41.On the right side, match the seams of the two skirt pieces together all around the pockets, with right sides together and pin.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-52.Stitch, pivoting at the pocket angle.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-63. If you insert a regular zipper on the left side (that’s what I will do), match the seams, pin and start stitching from the zipper mark to the hem.
If you are inserting an invisible zipper, it will be easier first to gather the skirt, attach it to the bodice, set the zipper and then close the side seam.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-7
4.Finissez les marges et repassez les poches vers le devant de la jupe.

GATHERING THE SKIRT

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-81.On the skirt waist seam, baste 3 lines of stitches at 1,5 cm, 1 cm and 0,5 cm from the egde (5/8″, 3/8″ and 1/4″).

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-9

2.Tie the bobbin threads (the ones at the bottom) together at both end. You will pull them to gather the skirt volume.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-10cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-113.Match the skirt side openings, front and back center, side seam to the corresponding bodice marks, with right sides together and pin. Gather the skirt between the marks until it fits the bodice.
When it does, stitch and finish the seam allowances (I like to bind the seam with bias).
There you go! On Wednesday we’ll see how to draw a circle skirt and how to add a lining in case your fabric needs it. Now go try your almost finished dress! And the whole Sew-Along posts are here.
pauline-sewing-pattern

 

7 October, 2013 4 comments
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When I went sewing machine shopping, I knew that one of the main feature I wanted was automatic buttonholes. I love that feature!
So let’s make the buttonholes and sew the buttons on our dress today!
The buttonholes/buttons on the pictures are inversed: buttonholes should be on the right side and buttons on the left. I had to make the change because of the way the collar way standing. Please follow the instructions and sorry for the confusion.
BUTTONHOLES
cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-11.Mark the buttonholes on the right side and the buttons on the left side. Mark the buttonhole and button on the under collar as well.

cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-22.Stitch the buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.
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3.Open the buttonholes with your seam ripper. Be careful not the cut the threads!

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4.Overlap the buttonhole placket over the button placket and baste the edge. The bodice is now opened only on the left side (where we are going to insert the zipper).
Have a great week end (I’ll be having a great one at a wedding!) and see you on Monday for sewing the skirt up and attaching it to the bodice!
pauline-sewing-pattern
5 October, 2013 6 comments
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When I first designed the Camí dress pattern, I spent a long time deciding whether I should make a classic shirt collar or a cute peter pan one. Well, you which one won but I kept the peter pan collar as a backup idea. I am going to show you how to draw your own peter pan collar for the Camí dress (or any other dress or blouse). If you don’t feel confident enough for the shirt collar or want to go for a super cute look, that’s a great alternative!

Pendant la conception du patron de la robe Camí, j’ai longtemps hésité entre faire un col chemisier classique et un col claudine. Bon, vous savez lequel l’a remporté mais j’ai quand même gardé l’idée du col claudine dans un coin de ma tête, juste au cas où. Je vais donc vous montrer comment dessiner votre propre co claudine pour la robe Camí (ou toute autre robe ou blouse). Si vous ne vous sentez pas prête à attaquer le col chemisier ou que vous voulez une robe au style encore plus féminin, voilà la parfaite alternative!

cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-1cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-2

1. Take your front and back bodice pattern pieces. On the bodice front, decide where you want your collar to arrive: cross over the button placket (first picture – fold the first part of the placket), join at the middle of the button placket (no picture – fold the placket on the button line), before the button placket (second picture – fold the whole placket). Mark the seam allowances at the shoulder (1,5 cm or 5/8″).

cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-32. Match the seam allowances at the neckline.
cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-43. On the other side (armhole), overlap the shoulder seam. The more you overlap, the more the collar is going to stand up. A good measure would be about 2 or 3 cm (6/8″ or 9/8″).

cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-5

4. Now you’ll need to paste the pattern pieces together so they don’t move and get some pattern paper. Trace the neckline.

cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-65. As my back bodice pattern is cut on the fold, I am going to draw a full collar on the back. The peter pan collar pattern will be cut on the fold as well. Decide how long you want it to be and add 3 cm or 4/5″ (1,5 cm or 5/8″ seams at the top and bottom). Start tracing the total length all around the neckline.

cami-sew-along-collar-variation-peter-pan-collar-76. Once you arrive at the front seam, add a 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowance. Finish the collar with a nice curve.

7. Cut two pieces of this pattern on the fold in the fabric and interfacing. Interface and stitch the exterior seam with right sides together. Clip the seam allowances or cut close to the edge, turn inside out and press flat. Ready to attach to your neckline!

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4 October, 2013 2 comments
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As I have already made a tutorial on how to sew a shirt collar, here is the link to see it. The tutorial follows the exact same steps, I even used the Camí dress pattern to draw the shirt collar pieces 😉
Good luck! Not that it’s very complicated but you need to be careful and concentrated.

 

pauline-sewing-pattern

2 October, 2013 6 comments
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I hope you had a nice strong cup of coffee or tea this morning as today’s post is a tough one! Let’s begin!
STITCH THE CUFF
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-11.Take your two cuff pieces, already interfaced and place them with right side together. Make sure the opening is marked (I drew only the slit but you can draw the whole box as in the pattern, it’s easier).
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs2
2.Pin and stitch the cuff, pivoting around the opening. It’s best to use a short length stitch (I used nº 2 for example).

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs3

3.Cut carefully the opening between the stitches. At the end, cut a V-shape the closest possible to the stitch line to the angles like in the picture. Be careful not to cut the stitches!

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4.Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners very close to the angles.

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5.Open the cuff and pin together the side seams, with right side together. No need to turn the cuff inside out. Stitch.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs66.Press the seam open.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs77.Turn the cuff inside out and press.
JOIN THE CUFF TO THE SLEEVE

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs8cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs9cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs10
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs111. Now comes the tricky step: matching the cuff seam and the sleeve seam, pin the cuff inside the sleeve hem. Look carefully at the pictures and try before sewing. We will stitch the cuff like we would stitch bias binding. So the cuff right side is against the sleeve wrong side (believe me, try it! I inserted my first cuff on the wrong side.) When you have pinned it, stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs12cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs132. Take the cuff out of the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-143. Topstitch!

4. And repeat on the other side of course… What do you think? Easy or difficult?

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30 September, 2013 12 comments
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How is the Sew-Along going? You have been able to try your bodice now and we are now going to make the sleeves and set them in the armhole. This step is the same for A and B version, but I chose the 3/4 sleeve length for the tutorial. If you’re making the short sleeve version, it’s exactly the same.
MARK YOUR FABRIC

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-1cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-21.The first step is to make sure you have marked your fabric correctly. Take your sleeve piece and check that you have marked: the dots for easing, the top center, the two marks indicating the back and the one mark indicating the front. Those are important in order not to set the wrong sleeve in the wrong armhole!

SLEEVE SIDE SEAM
I thought it would be a good idea to show you a new technic at the same time so I made French Seams on the sleeve side seam. I love this technic as it’s so clean and professional (and so easy!). Do you use it?

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-31.With WRONG sides together, pin the sleeve sides.

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2.Stitch at 0,6 cm (about 1/4″) from the border. To help you, this is usually the width of your regular foot. What I do is just align my presser foot to the edge of my fabric like on the picture and stitch maintaining my presser foot on the edge.

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3.Trim your seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Press the seam on one side, it’s not important which one.

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-64.Turn over, with wrong sides out and press the seam flat.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-75.Stitch the side seam again at 0,6 cm (1/4″) or the presser foot width. You will be enclosing the seam allowances, creating a clean finition. Press the seam to one side.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-8SET THE SLEEVE IN

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-91.With a long basting stitch, ease the sleeve head from one dot to the other.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-102.Match the markings (center, front and back) from the sleeve to the bodice.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-113.When they match, pin and ease the fabric excess of the sleeve head with the basting bobin thread, making sure there is no pleats. When it fits perfectly, pin everything (don’t be afraid to over-pin!).

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-12cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-134.Stitch around the armhole. Make sure there are no pleats at the sleeve head.
5.Stitch another row of stitches between the first line and the edge from the front marking to the back marking. This secong row add strength to the armhole. Trim and finish your seam allowances as prefered (I binded mines with bias binding). Repeat all the steps for the other sleeve.
That’s it for today! If you are making the short sleeve version, you just to hem your sleeves and you’re done! For the cuffs, let’s continue on Monday. Have a great week end!
And if you missed one step, here they are.
pauline-sewing-pattern
27 September, 2013 4 comments
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