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ZOOM IN: MARITIMS

by Pauline Alice

Finally, it’s time to show you the Maritims pullover in details!

I don’t know if you know it but I’m from Britanny (France). So the fisherman smock or « vareuse » as we call it in french was an evidence for me, I knew I would design one, one day (it’s a basic there, just like the rain coat and rubber boots).

After the Serra jacket, I thought it would be great to make another unisex pattern. A pullover you put on like a sweater but that protects you like a jacket. Maritims is fully lined to shield you from the weather and have nice finishing on the inside.

It has a loose shape with dropped shoulders, a big front pocket, deep enough so you don’t lose anything, an interior pocket and a high collar to protect from the wind.

To put it on, easy : just pull it over your head. Maritims has a wide zipped opening offset on the side and the colla ris closed by snaps. You can also choose to adjust the hem thanks to the drawstrings. Its extra long sleeves are meant to be rolled up.

You should choose a medium weight fabric for the outer layer : cotton canvas, gabardine, denim, corduroy or even nylon for an athleisure version. As for the lining, poplin or flannel are perfect.

Maria is wearing the size S, made in off-white cotton canvas with contrasting toptsitching and lined with poplin (coming soon). Aquilino is wearing a size L, lengthen 8 cm (patterns are designed for a height of 1,65 m and he is 1,83 m – front, back and front pocket pieces were lenthened), made in blue denim from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine and lined with striped cotton.

The Maritims pullover is available in sizes XS-XXL in the shop in print and PDF.
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Here is our new pattern, the Serra jacket. Does it ring a bell with its double pockets? It’s an adult version of our kid’s coat, designed for our first Mini collection last February. Many of you asked for an adult version of the jacket, so we made it! We have taken the shape and details of the Mini coat to develop the first “version” of Serra (view A): an unstructured, unisex jacket – we wanted it to be perfect for you and your man as well! – raglan sleeves, fully lined, with all the Mini coat details… But we didn’t stop there! We’ve been talking about making new patterns with multiple possibilities for a while, like the Aldaia dress you love so much (all the variations have make it our best-seller!).

The Serra jacket was the perfect example to try the multi-purpose versions: with its simple shape, we have worked on different lengths and details to propose a 3-in-1 pattern. Three views for three different styles and uses. We are delighted to show you the result of long months of work!

 

Serra jacket, view A

A mid-thigh jacket inspired by the Pauline Alice Mini coat and the traditionnal breton raincoat.

Serra jacket, view B

A short jacket with hood, athletic style.

Serra jacket, view C

A knee-length jacket with trench coat details.

More than three versions of the same pattern, these are three unique jackets designed from the same base with lots of possibilities. In the next post, we’ll talk more about the details of each view. In the meanwhile, I hope you’ll like the Serra jacket pattern (or at least one of the view!). My favourite is the athletic View B whereas Lucile is in love with the city version of View C. What about you? We are curious, let us know which one is your favourite!

– You can find the Serra Jacket pattern in printed copy or PDF (A4 print-at-home and A0 copyshop included) on the shop. –

Technical details

  • Difficulty: The Serra jacket pattern is designed for an advanced seamstress. Some details like the welt pockets or collar Pauline Alice Sewing Pattercan be a difficult for a beginner. But if you want to tackle this project, we’ve made some photo and video tutorials to guide you through the construction of the most complex steps.
  • Size chart: For Serra, we’ve worked with a different size chart than usual. The pattern was graded using a half-size scale from XS (34-36) to XXL (50-52) to get the ease and fit we wanted for a unisex jacket. Even if you are accustomed to our patterns, we recommand you to make a muslin, even a partial one, to choose the best fit. I’m wearing the jacket in XS in the pictures (for my usual 36).
  • Pattern and instructions: The Serra jacket pattern includes an instructions booklet in french and spanish. Each view has its own step-by-step illustrated instructions. Besides, there are seven pattern sheets (yes, seven!). Because of the number and size of the pattern pieces, you’ll find that some of the smaller pieces are included inside a bigger one, so you won’t be able to cut diretly into your pattern.
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saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

The day I release new patterns is always stressful, and today is no exception! During the last months, I’ve been working very hard on these 3 new patterns and I’m so happy (and a little bit anxious) to introduce you to the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket!

These 3 patterns have been designed as a mini collection: each piece can be worn individualy or as a complete outfit. Depending on the version and the fabric you choose, they can all be dressed-up or casual. I wanted classic pieces but with a twist, easy to wear on a daily basis or for a special occasion and that can be mixed with lots of other garments.

Reina shirt pattern versions

The Reina shirt was inspired by Victorian blouses, with loops fastenings and high cuffs. Wide, with a longer back and deep V-neckline, it can be worn with a skirt or pants quite easily.
There are two options: View A has a tie collar and long sleeves whereas View B is perfect for summer days with short sleeves, mandarin collar and small pockets.

Safor skirt pattern 2 versions

A faux-wrap skirt, the Safor skirt is very modern yet has a classic feel. With the yoke following the body curves and two lengths option, it’s versatile, elegant and confortable.

saler jacket pattern in white and kaki

saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

Finally, the Saler jacket will be perfect all year-round and it just goes with everything. Classic tailored shape with princess seams, flap pockets and two pieces sleeves with button vent, it’s the perfect challenge for seamstresses.

You can find the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket in the shop!

I hope you’ll like these new patterns and I’ll be coming back during the week end and next week with details on each pattern.

Fabric credits: all fabrics are from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine.

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Let’s continue with Fall/Winter sewing: after the inspiration, let me show you what I plan on sewing.

Hopefully the weather will behave and the temperatures will go down (but I really don’t know, I might just wear my bikini and go to the beach this afternoon. I’m not joking!).

The fabric is mine and the illustrations are to give you an idea of the shape, but I will draft my own patterns (you might even see some of them later if I am happy of how they turned out!)

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-1I have this beautiful burgundy wool that will be perfect for a jacket/skirt ensemble. I’m thinking of a short swing jacket and a pencil skirt with knife pleats at the back. And the light pink lining for a little bit of contrast.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-2With the same pattern as the short swing jacket, I want to make a swing coat. I will just make it longer (or I hope it will work like that). I have a bright baby blue wool/cotton fabric with a diamond pattern in relief. With a bright green lining, it will be a very nice coat to brighten the winter.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-3These two combinations are for skirts: A-line skirts with pleats. I need more skirts, I have lots of dresses but very few skirts. So I will add two for the winter: one in wool tweed in green, pink and brown with a bottle green lining and the other one in purple wool with blue/purple lining.

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-4And a winter Camí dress of course! 3/4 sleeves or long, I still don’t know. I have a nice cotton/wool fabric but I might have to change the collar, it might be too heavy. It’s dark grey with purple leaves, very subtle.

Are you ready for next week? I’m so excited to show you the new pattern. I really hope you’ll like it!

It will be out on Thursday! Monday I’ll let you know more…

Have a great week end and see you then…

pauline-sewing-pattern

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As soon as I opened the October issue of Burda, I knew I wanted the jacket #105. I even made a special Pinterest moodboard in order to choose what kind of fabric would be better (I like the camouflage version a lot but I know I will not wear it as it will not go with about 95% of my wardrobe).

safari-jacket-sewing-pattern-1

 

Finally, I remembered I had this blue cotton gabardine (originally beige but tyed in blue) left from a dress, with one side plain and the other with little flowers. I decided not to line the jacket so the flowers would show inside and when the sleeves are turned up. I just had to make nice flat-fell seams.
It was the first time I used hammer-on snap fasteners and I have to say they are pretty easy to use (I just had to borrow a hammer, oups).

 

safari-jacket-sewing-pattern-2

 

I changed some little things to the pattern: I omitted the front storm flaps, the zipper and reduce quite a lot the sleeve width. Other than that, nothing: the pattern is perfect.
I wanted a jacket with lots of pockets for a trip (where the pictures were taken, doesn’t it look like a jungle?) so I wouldn’t have to carry a bag. I felt so free with the use of my both hands! I had room enough in those pockets for everything: wallet, phone, 3 lipsticks, keys, mirror, blush… even my kindle! Best travelling jacket ever!

safari-jacket-sewing-pattern-3Have a great week!

pauline-sewing-pattern

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Hello everyone,
I have taken some pictures this week-end of the red bouclé outfit I told you about last month (remember, I showed you the jacket).
red-bouclé-outfit-sewing-pattern-1

 

I am not usually one to follow the fashion trends as I normally have a retro/vintage style (quite the opposite of most of the modern trends, even if sometimes some designers got inspired by the past ( I could write an entire post about my favourite designers, well I guess I will)). But the recent trend of coordinated outfit was very nice and I really like the idea. This was the board I made, remember:

red-bouclé-outfit-sewing-pattern-2

I wanted a short and fitted jacket with 3/4 sleeves, in a very simple shape (no collar, no pocket) to make the beaded trim and the bright colour the most important features. I chose a pattern from Burda, jacket 109 from issue 03/2012, a pattern I already made for my mother as a Christmas present. I changed it quite a bit in order to get it more fitted: took the seams in, increase the curve of the princess seams, fitted the sleeves…
The same happened for the skirt: a clean shape to let the fabric and the trim shine. The pattern is the same one I made for my bow skirt, minus the pockets (and the bow of course!).
red-bouclé-outfit-sewing-pattern-3
red-bouclé-outfit-sewing-pattern-4
I hope your having a nice summer (here in Valencia it’s great, I was frying in the sun with the jacket while taking the pictures…) and I wish you a nice week!

pauline-sewing-pattern

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minoru jacket

Yep, I finished my Sewaholic Minoru jacket!
I have been following Tasia’s sew-along and I was so impatient to wear the jacket.
I finished the hem on Saturday morning and as soon as the last thread was cut, I put it on and rode my bike to the city center. And Tasia, the wonderful pattern maker, was right: it’s a great jacket for riding.
minoru-bikeminoru-front

The pattern is great, not as difficult as I first thought. But following the sew-along was a right choice for me. I could have done it without, but I am also sure the finitions wouldn’t be so well made. I got compliments all day long, and everytime I explained I did it myself, people were surprised. That’s what I like with this pattern, easy but with so many details that give it a polished look: the metalic zippers, the elastic bands of the belt and sleeves ends, the big collar with its secret hood…

minoru jacket back viewminoru hood detail

minoru jacket

Even if the pattern specified that plaid fabrics were not recommended, when I saw this wool English plaid, I knew it was going to be my Minoru jacket. I am quite happy with the result, I matched the plaid quite well. I like that it looks like something a modern Sherlock Holmes could wear. I lined it with bright yellow-golden bemberg for a nice contrast.

So, to summarize, I am really happy with my new jacket. I might plan a second one, in a solid colour, but I’ll wait for next year as it’s almost too warm now to wear it in daytime. I highly recommend the pattern, I consider myself being between novice and intermediate and I understood it perfectly. See how happy I am!

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