Home Tags Posts tagged with "pattern hack"
Tag:

pattern hack

BlogExtraspattern hacksPauline alice patternsSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projectsTutorials and techniques

ONIL BLOUSE: HACK 4

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Another easy way to change your Onil blouse is to shorten the sleeves and lengthen the blouse to make it a cute A-line dress.

Note: if you are going to made some modifications to your pattern, it’s easier to do without seam allowances. The A4 and A0 pattern files have a specific “cutting line” layer for each size, with no seam allowances. Then add your 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances to the finished and modified pattern pieces.

ONIL HACK #3:  A-LINE DRESS

1.Draw the new hem line on the sleeve at your desired length. Make sure you follow the curve.

 

2. Cut the front and back pieces on the “shorten/lengthen here” line.

 

3. Separate the pieces with the same amount to the desired finished length. Join the armhole (or the bottom of the dart for the front) to the hem.

YOU DON’T HAVE THE ONIL BLOUSE PATTERN? GET IT FOR FREE HERE!
0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtrasfree patternspattern hacksSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projects

ONIL BLOUSE: HACK 3

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Another easy way to change your Onil blouse is to lengthen the sleeves, that will make the blouse perfect for winter!

Note: if you are going to made some modifications to your pattern, it’s easier to do without seam allowances. The A4 and A0 pattern files have a specific “cutting line” layer for each size, with no seam allowances. Then add your 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances to the finished and modified pattern pieces.

ONIL HACK #3: LENGTHEN THE SLEEVES

1.Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline on the sleeve piece (more or less in the middle of the side seam). Cut along the line.

2.Add the desired amount between the two pieces (between 25 and 30 cm – 10″ and 12″ for a long sleeve to the wrist). Join the underarm and bottom edge of the sleeve. Then add the seam allowances needed.

YOU DON’T HAVE THE ONIL BLOUSE PATTERN? GET IT FOR FREE HERE!
0 comment
1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtrasfree patternspattern hacksSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projects

ONIL BLOUSE: HACK 2

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Let’s see a second way to hack the Onil blouse pattern. This is part 2 of a 4 parts modifications series.

Note: if you are going to made some modifications to your pattern, it’s easier to do without seam allowances. The A4 and A0 pattern files have a specific “cutting line” layer for each size, with no seam allowances. Then add your 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances to the finished and modified pattern pieces.

ONIL HACK #2: BABYDOLL DRESS

1.This one is pretty straight-forward: we are just going to trace a line on the front and back pieces where we want the bodice to end. Make sure the line is perpendicular to the grainline.

2. Cut 2 rectangles  twice the width of the front/back pieces and desired length. Sew the sides of the rectangles, gather the top edge and attach it to the bodice. You can play with the length to make it short or midi, or add a second tier for a full volume dress.

YOU DON’T HAVE THE ONIL BLOUSE PATTERN? GET IT FOR FREE HERE!
0 comment
2 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtrasfree patternspattern hacksSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projects

ONIL BLOUSE: HACK 1

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Have you already strated sewing your Onil blouse, our new free sewing pattern? If you need some ideas on how to personalize Onil, this is the first post of a 4 parts series.

Note: if you are going to made some modifications to your pattern, it’s easier to do without seam allowances. The A4 and A0 pattern files have a specific “cutting line” layer for each size, with no seam allowances. Then add your 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances to the finished and modified pattern pieces.

ONIL HACK #1: ADD SOME BUTTONS ON THE SIDE

1. Draw the whole front piece (pattern is on the fold). Draw the line where you want the button closure to be (here in red) and cut the front piece along the line. You now have a left front (the smaller piece) and a right front (the bigger one).

2. Add a button placket on the left front, about 2,5 or 3 cm wide (1″ or 1 1/4″).

 

3. Draw the whole front facing (pattern is on the fold). Cut the front facing just as you did the front piece.

4. Place the facing pieces over the new front pieces and draw the new facings, adding a rectangle along the center line. Keep the width the same as the facing: 4 cm or 1 1/2″ without seam allowances (when you do add them, no need to add seam allowances to the outer edge, final width is 5,5 cm or 2 1/4″).

5. Here are your new pattern pieces. Remember to flip the facing pieces so they lay mirroring the front pieces on the fabric. At the end of construction, make buttonholes on the right side of your blouse and sew the buttons on the left side.

YOU DON’T HAVE THE ONIL BLOUSE PATTERN? GET IT FOR FREE HERE!
1 comment
1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtraspattern hacksTutorials and techniques

REIG TROUSERS HACK 1: JEANS

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

When I designed the Reig trousers pattern, I wanted to make a classic pair of trousers that would be a great basis for almost any type of wide leg trousers. So I thought I would show you how to modify your pattern to make some wide leg jeans.

 

FRONT

 

On the front piece, we’ll start by drawing the seam allowances on the top edge and the side (remember, they are 1,5 cm – 5/8″). Then, we will draw the shape of the pocket opening. It needs to be big enough for your hand to enter! You might want to check the dimensions on a pair of jeans and copy it.

Once you have your pocket opening, add seam allowances to the curved opening (1,5 cm – 5/8″ again) and cut along the new line.

 

POCKETS

Take the pocket pattern piece and place it under the new front piece. Draw the shape of the pocket opening (with the seam allowances included). That’s your new pocket bag piece.

Draw a pocket facing for the other side of the pocket bag: it needs to be wider than the pocket opening. You can add about 2,5 cm – 1″ to the curved seam. This piece will be cut in your main fabric and applied to the pocket to prevent the lining from showing.

 

BACK

On the back piece, draw a line from the side to the crotch, passing by the tip of the back dart. The line should dip down in the center back. Cut.

Cut the new back yoke along the dart lines.

Close the dart by tapping the two pieces together and round the angles. On the back leg piece, shape the side slighty; remove the tip of the dart and bring the side in (remove the same width of the dart).

Add seam allowances to the new pieces: the bottom of the yoke and the top of the leg.

 

BACK POCKET

Draw the back pocket. I traced my from my favourite jeans and just added seam allowances around (add twice the seam allowances to the top edge as it will be folded in twice).

 

WAISTBAND

If you want a regular waistband, you just need to cut the right side waistband 1,5 cm – 5/8″ after the center front notch. The left side waistband will stay the same.

 

Have you ever made some jeans from a trousers pattern? If you want to make some, the REIG trousers are such a great pattern. You can get a copy here!

 

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtrasLliriaMy makespattern hacksPauline alice patternsSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projectsTutorials and techniques

A NEW VERSION OF THE LLIRIA DRESS

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

I think that amongst all my patterns, my favourite is the Lliria dress pattern. I feel pretty every time I wear one, I believe it’s the romantic look of the dress with its crossed neckline and soft gathers. I wanted to make a new version for the summer and this time, to make it a classic wrap dress. The Lliria pattern is already a wrap dress but with buttons instead of the classic ties. It was quite easy to modify the original pattern to accommodate ties. Let’s see how to do it:

inspiration for Lliria. source : Black Crane / pinterest

—

VARIATION

1/ As the new neckline isn’t buttoned, I decided to make it straight instead of curved to make sure it stays close to the body. I traced a straight line from the top of the neckline to the waist (remember to do the same for the front facing pieces).

—

2/ We’ll need to cut the waistband in 3 pieces in order to create an opening for the ties. On the waistband piece, you will find notches indicating where the side seams should match. Trace a line between the top and bottom notches. You now have one left side front waistband, one right side front waistband and one back waistband. Add seam allowances to the new side edges (1,5 cm or 5/8” like the rest of the pattern). Remember to cut these new pieces twice (one for the exterior waistband and one for the interior one).

—

3/ Cut 2 rectangles of 1m x 11 cm (1 yd x 4 ½ “) (with 1 yd, I’m able to wrap and tie the dress on the back and at the front). If you want longer or shorter ties, you just need to adapt the length of the rectangles.

—

CONSTRUCTION AND SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

WAISTBAND

  • Choose if you want to wrap your dress on the left or right side. If like me, you want to wrap the right side over the left, you’ll need to make an opening for the ties on the right side of the waistband.
  • Stitch the back piece and the right front piece together, leaving a 4 cm (1 ½ ») opening at the center. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the back and left pieces together all the way. Do the same for the interior waistband but leaving the opening on the left side instead.

TIES

  • With right sides together, fold the ties in two lengthwise and stitch together (seam allowances are included and are 1,5 cm – 5/8 ») leaving one small side open. You can sew a straight edge at the end or a diagonal one if you prefer. Trim the seam allowances and turn right side out. Press and baste the ties to the right side of the front waistband, matching raw edges.
  • When you’ll stitch the facing to the dress, the ties will be sandwiched between the exterior and interior waistbands.
  • For the rest of the construction, you just need to follow the instructions.

FINISHINGS

  • You can handstitch the edges of the tie opening together.
  • I didn’t have enough fabric for the sleeves so instead, I used self-fabric bias binding to finish the armholes. I love this sleeveless version for summer.

I’m very happy about this Lliria dress variation! It’s easy to make, elegant and easy to wear as well. I chose an ochre linen from Activa textil, which makes it a light dress perfect for summer. If you want to make a Lliria dress and don’t know which fabric to use, we made a post for fabric inspiration, check it here.

While waiting for September and the new patterns release (maximum excitement!), I wish you a great end of summer!

2 comments
2 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtrasMy makespattern hacksPauline alice patternsSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projectsTutorials and techniquesVera

AN EASY SUMMER DRESS WITH VERA

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Last summer, we released the Vera shirt pattern: a loose shirt with an asymmetrical hem. We’ve seen amazing versions on social media, and some of them modified as a dress. We loved the idea and decided to make a casual shirt dress for the summer. We have added a large pleat in the back, two big pleated pockets on the hips, longer sleeves and ties at the waist so it can be ajusted.

Fabrics: Blue and red stripes cotton poplin Lanterne & Céleste. / Cahier d’Écolier gauze. / images: Coralie marabelle. / Le Mont Saint Michel.

We wanted to work with various fabrics to give it a patchwork vibe and play with the grafic look of the shirt. We selected Amandine Cha’s organic fabrics (mainly cotton poplin and gauze) as they look and feel great.

—

HACK

1/ Lengthen the front and back pieces. Trace an horizontal line about 20 cm below the armscye on the front and back pieces. Cut along the line. On a piece of paper, place the top and bottom pieces 30 to 35 cm apart (make sure the centers match). Tape the pieces to the paper and draw a line to meet the top and bottom at the sides and centers.

—

2/ Lengthen the front facing to same way.

—

 

3/ Once the front, back and front facing pieces are lengthened, we will widen the back piece with an inverted pleat. Place the back piece on paper and trace a line parallel to the center back 2 to 4 cm away. Trace around the new back piece.

—

4/ Lengthen the sleeve. Trace a cutting line 10 cm above the hem. Cut and place on paper 10 cm apart. Tape and draw the new sides from the armscye to the hem.

—

5/ Draw the pleated pocket.

  • Pocket : on a piece of paper, trace a rectangle 22 cm wide and 16 cm high. Trace a vertical line at the center, this will be the center of the inverted pleat. On each side of the line, trace a fold line 2 cm away. Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the pocket piece. You’ll need to cut 2.
  • Pocket facing : Trace a rectangle 18 cm wide and 8 cm high. Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the facing. Cut 2.

—

6/ Make the waist ties. Trace a rectanle 8 cm high 1 m wide (if you want longer or shorter ties, feel free to change the length). Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the ties. Cut 2.

—

7/ Place the pockets and ties placements on the front pieces as indicated.

—

CONSTRUCTION

BACK

  • Form the inverted pleat on the back neckline. Here’s a great post (in french) about that:

> Coudre des plis: plis plats, plits creux, plis ronds

POCKETS

  • Form the inverted pleat of the pocket.
  • With right sides together, stitch the pocket facing to the top edge of the pocket with 1,5 cm seam allowances. Press the seam allowances towards the facing and understitch.
  • Fold the top edge of the facing 1,5 cm wrong sides together. Press. With right sides together, fold the facing in two, stitch around the pocket, over the top fold. Trim the corners.
  • Turn the pocket right sides out. Fold the pockets seam allowances towards the wrong side, using the stitching as a guide. Edgestitch the facing.
  • Pin the pockets on the front pieces. Topstitch around the pockets.

TIES

  • With right sides together, fold the tie in two lengthwise. Stitch 1,5 cm from the edge, leaving one end open. Turn right side out and press. Baste the ties to the front pieces.

HEM

  • Finish the hem with bias binding (or you could use the original facing if you prefer, just remember to add the extra width from the back pleat).

—

 

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogExtraspattern hacksPauline alice patternsSerraSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projectsTutorials and techniques

#SERRAJACKET HACK

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

If you grew up in the nineties like me, you must know the game “fashion designer”. I loved it! I was thinking about this game when developping the Serra jacket pattern: with one base, we worked on different lengths, pockets, necklines, details to offer 3 versions for 3 different looks:

  • A parka for view A, A mid-thigh jacket inspired by the Pauline Alice Mini coat and the traditionnal breton raincoat.
  • An athletic jacket for view B, A short jacket with hood, athletic style.
  • A trench coat for view C, A knee-length jacket with trench coat details.

All the details can be mixed with the different versions to create infinite combinations! In this post, we’ll show you how to create 3 variations. You’ll see how to mix the pockets, lengths and other details. You can apply these modifications to all 3 versions, you just need your imagination run free and create your dream jacket!

To help you design your jacket, we’ve made a template available for free download. You can draw the details you want to incorporate to your jacket and see which version you prefer. You’ll find the download link at the end of the post.

HACK #1

Sportwear parka

You’ll need the following pieces to make this jacket:

      • 1   FRONT A*+B*
      • 2   BACK A
      • 3   SLEEVE B
      • 4    FRONT FACING A
      • 5    BACK FACING A
      • 6    SLEEVE FACING A
      • 7    FRONT LINING A
      • 8    BACK LINING A
      • 9    SLEEVE LINING B
      • 10  SIDE HOOD B / 10 bis SIDE HOOD B
      • 11  BACK HOOD B
      • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING B
      • 13  BACK HOOD LINING B
      • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING B / 14 bis FRONT HOOD FACING B
      • 29  BREAST POCKET B
      • 30  POCKET B
      • 31  POCKET FACING B
      • 17  ZIPPER PLACKET A
      • 27  FRONT CASING A
      • 29  BACK CASING A

*Pieces we will modify

—

FRONT POCKETS

On the front piece of view A (1) add the placements of pockets (29) & (30) from view B.

—

HACK #2

Long parka jacket

You’ll need the following pieces to make this version :

      • 1  FRONT A*+ C*
      • 2   BACK A*+ C*
      • 3  SLEEVE A
      • 4  FRONT FACING A*+ C*
      • 5  BACK FACING A
      • 6  SLEEVE FACING A
      • 7  FRONT LINING C
      • 8  BACK LINING C
      • 9  SLEEVE LINING A
      • 10  SIDE HOOD A
      • 11  BACK HOOD A
      • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING A
      • 13  BACK HOOD LINING A
      • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING A
      • 15  BACK HOOD FACING A
      • 16  VISOR A
      • 17  ZIPPER PLACKET A
      • 19  COLLAR A
      • 20  COLLAR BUTTON BAND A
      • 21  FRONT BUTTON BAND A
      • 22  BREAST POCKET FLAP A
      • 23  BREAST POCKET A
      • 24  POCKET FLAP A
      • 25  POCKET A
      • 26  OVER-POCKET A
      • 27  FRONT CASING A
      • 28 BACK CASING A

*Pieces we will modify

—

       FRONT LENGTH, CENTER FRONT, NECKLINE, POCKETS AND CASING

On the front piece (1) of view C : draw the neckline and the center front of view A. On the front piece (1) of view C, draw the placements of the pockets flaps (22) (24), the pockets (23) & (25) and the front casing (27) of view A.

—

BACK LENGTH, NECKLINE AND CASING

On the back piece (2) of view C, draw the neckline and the casing of view A.

—

FRONT FACING LENGTH, NECKLINE AND CENTER FRONT

On the front facing piece (4) of view C : draw the neckline and center front of view A.

—

FRONT BUTTON PLACKET

Lengthen the front button placket piece (21) of view A to match the length of the new front piece.

—

ZIPPER PLACKET LENGTH

Lengthen the zipper placket piece (18) of view A to match the length of the new front piece.

—

HACK #3

Aviator style jacket

You’ll need the following pieces to make this version :

  • 1  FRONT B*+ C*
  • 2  BACK B*+ C*
  • 3  SLEEVE C
  • 4  FRONT FACING B*+ C*
  • 5  BACK FACING C
  • 6  SLEEVE FACING C
  • 7  FRONT LINING B
  • 8  BACK LINING B
  • 9  SLEEVE LINING B
  • 10  SIDE HOOD C
  • 11  BACK HOOD C
  • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING C
  • 13  BACK HOOD LINING C
  • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING C
  • 15 BACK HOOD FACING C
  • 18  STORM SHIELD C
  • 32 GUN FLAP C
  • 33 COLLAR C
  • 34 UNDER COLLAR C
  • 35 COLLAR STAND C
  • 36 WELT C
  • 37 POCKET FACING C
  • 38 POCKET LINING C

*Pieces we will modify

—

    FRONT LENGTH, NECKLINE AND POCKETS

On the front piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

On the front piece of view B : draw the welt pocket placement at waist level.

—

BACK LENGTH AND NECKLINE

On the back piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

—

FRONT FACING LENGTH AND NECKLINE

On the front facing piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

—

ZIPPER GUARD

Shorten the zipper guard of view B to match the center front of the new front piece.

—

Have fun and create your dream jacket thanks to the free downloadable template here!
0 comment
4 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
BlogSewing ideas and inspirationSewing projects

Pregnancy in Pauline Alice patterns

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Today I’m writing a special post: how to adapt your Pauline Alice patterns when you’re expecting!

You may have noticed (or not) that I’m expecting a baby for Fall (thanks to everyone who congratulated me!). My closet is quite limited right now as most of my clothes are fitted and high waisted, so I need new outfits more adapted to my growing belly. I thought it would be nice to show you how to adapt non-maternity patterns quite easily with pretty illustrations and diagrams:

 

CAMI DRESS

This is a very easy modification: you just have to shorten the front and back bodice pieces of the Cami dress pattern.

I would then remove the back darts and replace the front ones by gathers. To make the dress easier to put on, I would remove the side zipper and cut the front skirt piece in half and continue the bodice buttonband on the skirt. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

CARME BLOUSE & PORT SHORT

In the Carme blouse Sew-along (see it here on youtube), I had already shown how to make a maternity version.

You just need to add fabric on the bodice centre front that will later be gathered and stitched to the front yoke as the original version.

 

The Port short is a model that will ask for a more complex modification.

You’ll need to add a jersey waistband to the short. You need to redraw the front pieces (front and pockets). Draw a curve from the side to the center front (the seat is shortened by about 15 cm – this measure will vary depending on your belly, make sure to make a toile before). You won’t need the zipper fly pieces as the shorts will be pulled on, fly will only be decorative. Place the pockets (view A or B) over the new front piece and draw the curve on the pockets as well.

For the jersey waistband, we’ll cut two front and two back waistbands (size is to be adapted to your belly). The bottom edge should measure the same as the short’s new waistline with the cruve. Stitch the front and back waistbands at the sides and then both waistbands together at the top edge. Turn with the right sides out and stitch a line about 2 cm below the top edge to created a channel and insert an elastic. Stitch the waistband to the short. You can now pull the short on and the jersey waistband will be very confortable all the way through pregnancy.

 

MALVAROSA DRESS

No need to change anything on the Malvarosa dress as it’s loose shape makes it perfect for maternity.

 

ELIANA DRESS

That’s the first dress I thought of hacking : if you move the elastic waistband up, you’ll have the perfect maternity dress, from the first to the third trimester.

You need to shorten the Eliana dress bodice front and back pieces, without removing the 3 cm seam allowances at the waist. For the skirt, no need to change the waist but you might want to lengthen it a little bit. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

REINA SHIRT / DRESS

No modification needed for the Reina shirt thanks to the loose shape and gathers around the bust. But I want to lengthen it and try to make a dress out of it.

 

XEREA DRESS

By replacing the fold on view B of the Xerea dress by soft gathers, you’ll get a pretty maternity dress that you’ll also be able to wear after baby’s arrival.

 

DENIA BLOUSE & ROSARI SKIRT

The Denia blouse pattern doesn’t need any change. It will be perfect for summer temperatures.

Just as the Port short, the Rosari skirt will need a jersey waistband to be worn as a maternity skirt.

Check out the Port modifications above. You don’t need to make the buttonholes, as the skirt won’t be opened, you can stitch the buttons directly over the buttonbands. Pockets will nedd to be lowered slightly.

 

ALDAIA DRESS

The Aldaia dress is designed for jersey fabrics, perfect when your belly is getting rounder every day.

I would shorten the bodice pieces (all three views are compatibles) under the bust and remove the back darts. For the skirt, I recommand using view B, without seams, and lengthen the skirt at the waist. Make sure you choose a fabric with enough stretch ad why not add some soft gathers on the front around the waist?

 

This is my Pauline Alice maternity wardrobe! I don’t know if I’ll have the time to test all the variations but this is definitely my summer sewing plan. I’m about to start the Cami dress in white cotton, I’ll let you know how that works out.

What about you? What’s your favourite maternity pattern? Which of these do you like the most?

8 comments
6 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail