Home Search
Search results for

"port trousers"

pattern port trousers alter the crotch 2

Once again, the wonderful team of Artesane share the second part of the trousers adjustments with us! Thanks so much!

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Now that you can alter the legs of a trousers pattern in your sleep, let’s focus on altering a more difficult area : the crotch.

1/ BEFORE STARTING

MATERIAL

Material needed :

  • Your trousers pattern (front leg and back leg)
  • Pattern paper or Kraft paper (cardboard)
  • Pens in different colours
  • tape
  • scissors

HOW IS MADE THE CROTCH OF A PAIR OF TROUSERS ?

pattern port trousers alter the crotch

The crotch of a pair of trousers is the curved seam that goes from the waistband center front to the waistband center back. It is made of two parts : the rise (the less curved part) and the curve.

You can alter the rise or the curve, or both at the same time. However, we recommend starting by altering only the rise of the crotch as it’s easier to adjust and most of the time, it’s enough to modify the few issue you might have with the inseam, seat or waist area.

WHICH SOLUTION FOR WHICH PROBLEM ?

pattern port trousers alter the crotch 2

The crotch line will determine the fit of a pair of trousers. And a crotch line not adapted to your body specificities might create some issues in the following areas : seat, waist and inseam.
But don’t worry ! To each problem there’s a solution.
 
THE SEAT
 
1/ Your behind is very round (it’s too tight) : you need to widen the curve of the crotch in the back. Moreover,  if the waist tends to go down when you sit, you need to add length to the crotch at the back.
2/ Your behind is flat (there are some lines under the bottom) : you need to shorten the crotch length at the back.
 
THE WAIST
 
3/ Your belly is round (there are some lines around the belly) : you need to lengthen the rise of the crotch at the front.
4/ Your waist is very small (there are some lines just below the waist in the back) : you need to shorten the rise at the back.
 
THE INSEAM
 
6/ The inseam is too tight (There are horizontal lines) : you need to widen the curve at the front.
7/ The inseam is extremely tight (it cuts the legs and the waist) : you need to lengthen the crotch at the front and the back.
8/ The inseam is too wide (it’s too loose) : you need to shorten the crotch line at the front and at the back.
 
THE CASE OF THE ARCHED BACK
 
5/ If your back is really arched, there’s a chance your trousers waist will gape at the back. You need to shorten the crotch line at the back in a specific way that we’ll explain at the end of this post.
2/ LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN THE RISE OF THE CROTCH LINE (front and back at the same time)
 
Some of the issues (nº7 and nº8) need to alter the crotch length a few cm at the front and the back. In theses cases, you’ll apply the following method (that you need to apply on the front piece and the back piece).
LENGTHEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 3
1/ Cut your pattern piece along the hip line.
2/ Place a piece of paper below the pattern pieces. Determine how many cm you need to add and add them between the two pattern pieces (make sure the pieces stay parallels).
3/ Tape the pieces to the paper and redraw the curves of the crotch and the side.
SHORTEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 4
1/ Cut your pattern piece along the hip line.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces (make sure the pieces stay parallels).
3/ Tape the pieces to the paper and redraw the curves of the crotch and the side.
 
3 / LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN THE RISE OF THE CROTCH LINE (only at the back or the front)
 
Some of the issues (nº3 and nº4) need to alter the crotch length a few cm only at the front or the back. In theses cases, you’ll apply the following method to the front piece or the back piece.
LENGTHEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 5
1/ Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the point of the dart. Cut along the line starting from the crotch but stoping before the end. 
2/ Determine how many cm you need to add and spread the pieces according to the cm needed.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
SHORTEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 6
1/ Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the point of the dart. Cut along the line starting from the crotch but stoping before the end.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
4/ WIDEN OR SHORTEN THE CROTCH CURVE
WIDEN THE CURVE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 7
1/ Trace a line parallel to the grainline at the deepest of the curve. Cut along this line. 
2 / Place paper under the pattern pieces and spread the pieces apart according to the cm you need to add.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
SHORTEN THE CURVE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 8
1/ Trace a line parallel to the grainline at the deepest of the curve. Cut along this line.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces at the crotch.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
5/ THE CASE OF THE ARCHED BACK
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 9
If you have an arched back and your trousers gape at the back waist, you need to alter the length of the crotch. But we’ll modify it directly from the waist.
1/ Determine how many cm you need to remove (maximum 2 cm). 
2/ Lower the waist line on the crotch side.
3/ Redraw the waist line with a lsightly curved line instead of a straight one.
Now hopefully, you’ll be able to alter the legs or crocth of any trousers pattern to fit you perfectly ! 
signature1_editado-1
16 comments
15 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
pattern Port Trousers

I’m very happy to welcome the lovely girls behind Artesane today on the blog for a special post. In case you don’t know Artesane, it’s an online community platform with video classes and tutorials on sewing, knitting, crocheting, bag making, embrodery, pattern making… and many more to come. I am very greatfull to Artesane to have given me the opportunity to teach a sewing class for them on how to make a tailored jacket and I hope to repeat this amazing experience with them. Classes are only available in French for the moment but be sure to check their inspirational site just the same.

Thanks to Artesane for sharing here a great tutorial on how to alter a trousers pattern. That will be very useful for the Port trousers pattern! Let’s start!

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

TROUSERS ALTERATIONS

If there’s one type of pattern that’s difficult to standarize, it has got to be trousers. Everybody has got different body types and it’s quite rare not to have to alter a trousers pattern. That’s why we often have a favorite store-bought trousers brand or model ! It’s not easy to find a ready-to-wear model that fits perfectly at first try.

The best thing would be to make a muslin for every model that you like and think could be a go-to pattern.

Once this pattern is altered and fitted, you’ll have a tailored trousers pattern and will be able to use it again and again !

1/ Before starting

Material needed :

  • Your trousers pattern (front leg and back leg)
  • Pattern paper or Kraft paper (cardboard)
  • Pens in different colours
  • tape
  • scissors

How is made a pair of trousers ?

Trousers are made of two legs, a waistband and a type of closure (a fly for example).

Each leg is made of a front piece and a back piece. The back pieces is usually bigger than the front one. The back crotch is longer and curvier (that’s where our bum goes !).

Before starting any alteration, you need to add five reference lines on your pattern :

  •  waist line
  •  hip line (measure at the largest point)
  •  inseam line (it corresponds to the end of the seat)
  •  knee line
  •  hem line

ENSchemas1

Once you’ve added these lines to your pattern, it’s time to alter the trousers leg (there’ll be a second post on how to alter the crotch as it’s a vast subject).

So apart from the crotch adjustment, once you’ve made your muslim, you can see various type of issues :

– your trousers are too long o too short ; you have thus to lengthen or shorten the trousers leg ;

– your trousers are too wide or too small around the waist ; you have to adjust the waist ;

– your trousers are too wide at the hips or on the contrary, they’re too tight and uncomfortable ; you need to alter the trousers at the hips ;

2/ Lengthen or shorten the trousers legs

The technics used to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece are the same for any kind of garments. But still, let’s have a little reminder.

HOW TO SHORTEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas3

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove. Above the shorten/lengthen line on the pattern, trace a parallel line at X cm.

2/ Folding the pattern piece, overlap the two lines.

3/ Tape the fold close.

HOW TO LENGTHEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas4

1/ Cut the pattern piece along the shorten/lengthen line.

2/ Place a new piece of paper below the two pattern pieces. Determinate how many cm you need to add and spread the two pieces apart X cm (make sure the lines stay parallel).

3/ Tape the two pieces to the paper and join the two pieces together.

WHERE TO PLACE THE SHORTEN/LENGTHEN LINES ON A TROUSERS LEG
pattern Port Trousers 4

Now that we’ve seen the techniques, the important thing is to know where to apply them. Indeed, if you were to lengthen a trousers leg at the wrong place, there’s a good chance the general shape will get distorted.

1/ If the shortening/lengthening is small (up to 3 cm), the line has to be placed just above the knee (line 1).

2/ If the alteration is more important, it needs to be made in two places. Divide the length you have to add or remove from the leg in two. Then draw two adjustment lines above and below the knee (line 1 & 2).

If the alteration is minimal, you can do it at the hem line.

3/ Widen or tighten at waist

The secret of a great waist adjustment resides in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the shape of the trousers. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 8 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ Extend the waist line on both sides of the pattern piece. Add X cm to both sides (see diagram below).

5/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ At the waist line, remove X cm on both sides of the pattern piece (see diagram below).

4/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

4/ Widen or tighten at hips

Again, the secret of a great hip adjustment is in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the general shape of the garment. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 4 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 6

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll extend the hip line a few cm. Add X cm (see diagram above).

5/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 7

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll remove X cm to the hip line (see diagram above).

4/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

With these techniques, you’ll be able to adjust the legs of your favourite trousers pattern (length, waist or hips) ! We’ll see how to adjust the inseam and the crotch as well as how to alter the seat very soon.

…………………………………………………………………………………………………

THANKS ARTESANE!

signature1_editado-1

0 comment
4 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Testers PortTrousers2
First of all, I want to thank you all for the warm welcome you gave to the Port trousers & shorts pattern! I hope to see lots of them stitched up very soon 😉
And because it’s always easier to get inspiration for a project when you’ve seen a few versions made in different fabrics and worn by different people, let’s review some of the testers’ Port trousers.
As you can see, denim has been a favourite amongs the testers. You can play with contrasting topstitching to give your Port trousers a jeans style or keep it casual. Just remember than denim has a tendency to stretch when worn (going down a size might be a good idea. My shorts version is perfect on the first day but a little too big on the following one for example).
TestersPortTrousers1
If you want a more dressed-up version, you can use gabardine, cotton twill or chambray like these testers. I think the Port trousers are really easy to wear (and sew by the way!) and it’s the kind of garments you can wear from day to night depending on how you accesorize.
TestersPortTrousers2
Un chas un chasLise TailorSur un fil – my striped version
I hope all these beautiful Port trousers will give you some inspiration. If you want more, check out the Port trousers & shorts board on Pinterest.
Which version do you like best? And what about fabric choice? Let me know how your Port trousers are going to look like…
signature1_editado-1
0 comment
1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
port trousers 6

PortA6

Here it is, the new pattern: the Port trousers and its short version. Its casual look will be perfect for the back at school/work season or the ones who don’t want to say good-bye to summer.
The chino cut, military inspired, makes it perfect all year-round. How about wearing view A with cuffed hems and heels for work or view B to make the most of the last summer days?
PortA4
PortA5
PortB4
The Port trousers have a relaxed fit at the waist and hips with a slightly tapered leg and ankle length, as well as a mid-rise waistband with belt loops. There are many pockets options (you all know my love for pockets by now, no?): view A with front slant pockets and back patch pockets, view B with front patch pockets and back zipped pockets.
I recommend using medium-weight fabrics such as gabardine, twill cotton, linen, denim… or even lightweight woolen fabrics for a more dressed-up version.
PortB2
PortB3
The Port trousers pattern is available at the shop only as a PDF download.
I wanted to propose an easy trousers pattern, with interesting details, that could be made quite quickly (print it, stitch it on the very same day! Great as the week end is coming!). And printed pattern are coming back very soon…
I’m preparing a series of posts on trousers common adjustments, inspiration and a few tutorials in the up-coming weeks.
PortB5
PortA2
Fabrics:
View A: gabardine from Cousette (worn with a Bailén top in rayon from Cousette)
View B: denim from Julían López (worn with a Carme blouse)
I hope you’ll like the Port trousers and that it will join your fall wardrobe!
signature1_editado-1
0 comment
1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

A new trousers pattern for Spring, hooray! Meet the Botanic trousers, your perfect companion for the warmer months. This pair of wide-legged, high-waisted trousers are so comfortable you’ll want to live in them every day (I know I do!).

When I started designing the Botanic pattern at the end of 2016, culottes were seen in editorials or high-fashion magazines but not so much on the street. But this season, they’ve started to pop up everywhere! I certainly don’t mind as I love this style.

Botanic trousers are very flattering and create an elongated silhouette thanks to the cropped-length. They are designed for an average height of 5 ft 5 (1m65) and the hem should hit between mid-calf and just above the ankle.

The waistband sits at the natural waist and the front waistband is flat with two folds on each side for a smooth and clean line.  Pockets are hidden in the side seams. But the best feature is the elastic back waistband: not only is it comfortable but it allows for a fitted waist without the need of any closure. The belt loops allow you to add the self-fabric removable belt or a belt of your choice.

Choosing the right fabric for the Botanic trousers is very important: drape is the key word! I recommend going for a light to medium weight fabric with a lot of drape such as crepe, viscose, linen, light wool, silk… You also need a piece of interfacing for the waistband.

For the presentation version, I’ve used a beautiful viscose fabric in black. It is really soft, comfortable, light and with a great drape.


A few days ago, I showed you several Tello jackets on my instagram story. It was a great way to show the possibilities of this model in other fabrics and colours. In the same way, I was thinking of sharing with you the Botanic’s versions I made while testing the pattern.

Mid saison Botanic – 

This is a test version I have worn all winter. The fabric I’ve chosen is a  checked wool blend purchased in a beautiful haberdashery situated in Valencia, Bye Bye Manoni. This fabric is a perfect fit for these trousers. It looks great with sneakers for a casual week end outfit or like this, with boots and a shirt for work.

Spring Botanic –

I was thinking that a light printed cotton fabric with ethnic influence would be a nice idea for a Botanic spring version.  This viscose is from Henry Henriette but does not exist anymore… However,  you can find more printed viscose in their online shop.

I think I’ll be wearing this one during all summer, it’s so light and breezy!

 

So, which one is your favourite version?

0 comment
6 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
I would like to start this post with an giant THANK YOU!
Thank you to all of you who bought the new patterns, the Sorell trousers and the Xerea dress! I’m so happy (and relieved) that you like them!And Thank you to my testers! I’m so grateful for your help, your advices on the design and instructions… Without you all, I wouldn’t have been able to release these new patterns!And now, let’s talk about the Sorell trousers! Again!
I know sewing trousers can be intimidating: what with the fly, the pockets, the waistband… so many details that can go wrong.
I knew a step-by-step photo tutorial would be the perfect support for this pattern and that many beginners would feel better with extra pictures and instructions.You can download the Sorell trousers Tutorial here (in English).If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comment section below.
Want some ideas for your Sorell trousers? Check out my inspiration board on Pinterest.

signature1_editado-1.

2 comments
1 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

Today, let’s learn how to sew a fly front zipper on your Port trousers. Sewing the zippers on trousers is often one of the most feared step but it really shouldn’t. With this step-by-step photo tutorial, you’ll see it’s actually quite easy!

 

1. These are the pieces you’ll need to install the zipper:
-Fronts x 2 in main fabric
-Fly facings x 1 in main fabric and interfacing (some patterns have the fly facing included in the front piece, like the Sorell trousers for example, and this tutorial is going to be easier to apply in this case).
-Fly shield x 1 in main fabric and interfacing
-Zipper 15 cm (6″) long (it can be longer as in this tutorial)

 

2. Finish the center front seam of the front pieces with serger or zigzag stitch. Repport your marks on the front pieces.

 

3. With right sides together, pin the front pieces together at the center front seam.
4. Stitch from the inseam to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

5. Interface the fly facing piece.
6. Finish the curved seam.

 

7. Pin the fly facing to the left side front piece (when you wear the trousers) with right sides together.
8. Stitch together from the top edge to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

9. Open the fly facing. Trim and press the seam allowances toward the front.
Place the zipper face down (with the teeth toward the fabric) over the zipper facing, with the zipper ribbon touching the front seam. The zipper end should arrive just above the dot mark.
10. Stitch the left side of the zipper ribbon to the fly facing. Turn the facing in and press lightly.

 

11. Interface the fly shield piece.
12. Fold it in half lengthwise and stitch the bottom edge with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.
13. Turn the fly shield inside out, press and finish the edge with a serger or zigzag stitch.

 

14. Press the right side front piece (when you wear the trousers) 0,5 cm (1/4″) toward the inside.
15. Baste or pin the zipper to the folded edge.
16. Baste or pin the fly shield to the zipper.
17. Stitch very close to the folded edge throught all layers (front, zipper and fly shield) from the top edge to the dot mark.

18. Pin the fly shield out of the way so that it won’t get caught when we sew the fly topstitch.

 

19. Close the zipper (but don’t cut it yet). Place the trousers front correctly and draw the topstitching line (you can use the front pattern piece or the fly facing as guide).
20. Stitch the fly topstitching throught both layers (front and fly facing).

 

21. Unpin the fly shield and place it over the zipper. Pin in place again.
22. Make bar tacks to reinforce the fly: one at the bottom of the topstitching line and one at the curve. This time make sure you stitch through the fly shield as well.

 

23. There you go, an easy way to insert a fly front zipper!
Tip: wait until you attach the waistband to cut the zipper!

25 comments
20 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

From the beginning, I’ve pictured the Albors trousers and the Maritims pullover as a set, made in the same fabric. So naturally, I chose some cotton canvas to sew the prototypes. But that’s not the only type of fabrics available for the Maritims pullover. I’ve made a selection of great ideas for the outer fabric (for the lining, poplin or flannel would be perfect).

ATHLEISURE

1/ Turquoise nylon Rpistop – Harts Fabric

2/ Camo Ripstop oilskin– Merchant & Mills

3/ Arctic softshell – Telas activas

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Carhartt  /  Cos  / La Redoute / Buckle / Tumbler

 

CLASSIC FISHERMAN SMOCK

1/ Moss twill hemp – Harts Fabric

2/ Burgundy water-repellent hemp– Stonemountain Fabrics

3/ Navy gabardine – Tissustory

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Armor Lux /  All’océan  / Urban Outfitters / Vogue / Carrier Company

 

DENIM

1/ Blue denim – Les Trouvailles d’Amandine

2/ White recycled denim– Harts Fabric

3/ Chambray – Cousette

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Asos  /  Caron Callahan  / Pinterest / Galeries Lafayette / The Fashion Spot

 

The Maritims pullover pattern is available in sizes XS to XXL, in both print and PDF.
0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

ZOOM IN: ALBORS

by Pauline Alice

Let’s start the presentation of the new patterns with the Albors trousers. With two young boys, I spend my days running after them or on the floor, at home or at the park, so my dresses and skirts are gathering dust in my wardrobe. I needed a pair of trousers, comfortable and practical in all situations. Workwear as inspiration is not new for me (hello Tello jacket), so naturally, it came back when I was designing this new collection and the Albors trousers in particular.

Albors has a classic shape : a regular high waist (just below the navel), hip hugging and then straight wide legs with a cropped length.

What set it apart are the numerous pockets and topstitching : big patch pockets on the back and the front, tool pockets on the side and hammer loop on the other. The curved waistband also has some buttoned tabs. And you can choose between a button fly or zip fly, the booklet comes with both instructions.

I think Albors is a great basic pair of trousers : with or without all the pockets, contrasting or matching topstitching, zip or button fly, it has everything!

As for fabric, you should look for medium weight fabric with body : cotton canvas, gabardine, denim, corduroy… and most importantly, have fun with the topstitching!

Here, Maria is wearing a size 38, made in off-white cotton canvas (available soon) with contrasting topstitching.

The Albors trousers pattern is available in sizes 34-52 in the shop in print and PDF.
0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

I went to Japan last year and the street-style there inspired me quite a lot. Particularly in Kyoto, where most women would be wearing the same outfit over and over: a loose top or jacket, a beret and some loose skirt or wide-legged trousers above the ankle. There was something very chic and casually elegant about this combination and I became obsessed with the silhouette.

Sources : Denia, Tello and Botanic inspirations.

The patterns volumes of this collection are directly inspired by this travel and all the things I have seen there.

I chose loose and destructured lines for Denia and Botanic patterns in order to get easy to wear garments with style. According to the fabric, colors and patterns you choose,  there are a lot of opportunities to make different options and wear them!

The Tello Jacket is directly inspired by the utility jacket: my grandfather wore one almost everyday during my childhood! I decided to use the same base and make some changes in order to offer a modern take on this great jacket.

These are all the inspirations that lead me to create this chic and casually elegant Japanese-like silhouette. Perfect for the up-coming summer… and later as well! How about you? How do you come up with your sewing projects inspiration? Trips, colours, shapes, magazines… Let me know!

3 comments
7 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail

And last but not least, I’m really excited to introduce the lovely Denia blouse!

Denia is the easiest of the new patterns: this would be an excellent project for a beginner seamstress. It features a round collar, short cuffed sleeves and buttons in the back. The wide panels can be tied in a knot or left loose. It’s available as a PDF pattern in English, French and Spanish.

For fabric, we recommend light to medium weight such as cotton poplin, batiste, linen, viscose, chambray… Use stripes or color block to highlight the original seams.

Depending on the fabric you choose, Denia can be either casual (think cotton or linen) or more dressed-up (viscose, silk).

I was also inspired by my Japan trip for the Denia blouse: I wanted something stylish but with a very classic line at the same time. The volume is key for this pattern: loose-fitted, the ties help shape the blouse the way you want to.

Stripes were obvious to me as soon as I started working on the pattern: it would be so great to play with horizontal and vertical stripes for the many pieces. I used a cotton fabric with lurex stripes from Un chat sur un fil for the presentation pictures.

I also made a very light viscose Denia (fabric from Henry et Henriette) with contrasting bias piping and a small chest pocket. And I can’t stop thinking about a color block Denia for summer…

This will be the perfect top for summer as it’s loose-fitted and will look stylish with everything. How about you pair it with the Botanic trousers, the Rosari skirt or the Port shorts?

Find the Denia blouse PDF pattern here!

1 comment
2 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
One thing you need to know is that I don’t have a serger. It means I’m obsessed about seam allowances and how to finish them neatly so they don’t fray or even show on the inside. My favourite techniques are lining (I line everything I can, now you know why the Alameda dress is fully lined!), french seams, bias binding and when there is no other solution, the zig-zag stitch (the less, the better).
But with trousers, there is another seam available, which is strong, beautiful on the outside AND on the inside and leaves all the raw edges enclosed: the flat-fell seam!
So let’s see how to make this flat-fell seam as you’re going to use it on your Turia dungarees. This is also the typical seam you can find on denim trousers or men shirts.
FLAT-FELL SEAM
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Place your pieces WRONG SIDES together (yes, yes, wrong sides, I know it’s weird!). Pin and stitch together (note: 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances included in the pattern).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Press the seam allowances to one side.
Note: for the center front and center back seam, it’s important to press the seam in the opposite direction if you want them to match at the crotch. For example, press the center front seam allowances to the right and the center back seam allowances to the left.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Trim the bottom seam allowance to a minimum (about 0.5 cm or 3/16″).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6Fold the superior seam allowance over the trimmed one. It should enclose the bottom seam allowance. Press.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Stitch very close to the folded edge. Try to keep your stitches parallel to the first stitching line.
There you go: a very strong and clean seam with double topstitching from the right side and no raw edges on the inside.
Did you know the flat-fell seam? I hope you’re going to use it on your sewing projects, it’s a great technique!

 

signature1_editado-1

7 comments
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
  • 1
  • 2