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Sorell trousers variation: a pair of short
When designing the Sorell trousers, I thought they would make a great pair of shorts as well. This is such an easy variation to make: just cut the legs  above the knee ast desired length.

 

Sorell-trousers-variation-pair-short-sewing-pattern-1I like my shorts short so I cut mine about 8 cm below the crotch seam, including the 4 cm hem. I also added about 2 cm to the side seam at the hem to get them a little bit wider around the thighs.
Sorell-trousers-variation-pair-short-sewing-pattern-2Sorell-trousers-variation-pair-short-sewing-pattern-3I used linen for this version, it wrinkles a lot but is very comfortable to wear when it’s so hot like now. I really like the safari feel they have.
Sorell-trousers-variation-pair-short-sewing-pattern-4Sorell-trousers-variation-pair-short-sewing-pattern-5If you want to see a denim version, head over to Anne‘s blog. Inspired by her version, I didn’t add the back pockets either 😉

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Sorell trousers Turorial
I would like to start this post with an giant THANK YOU!
Thank you to all of you who bought the new patterns, the Sorell trousers and the Xerea dress! I’m so happy (and relieved) that you like them!And Thank you to my testers! I’m so grateful for your help, your advices on the design and instructions… Without you all, I wouldn’t have been able to release these new patterns!And now, let’s talk about the Sorell trousers! Again!
I know sewing trousers can be intimidating: what with the fly, the pockets, the waistband… so many details that can go wrong.
I knew a step-by-step photo tutorial would be the perfect support for this pattern and that many beginners would feel better with extra pictures and instructions.You can download the Sorell trousers Tutorial here (in English).If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comment section below.
Want some ideas for your Sorell trousers? Check out my inspiration board on Pinterest.

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Sorell Trousers Pattern
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After a post last week, here I am again, back from my hibernation with 2 new patterns: The Xerea Dress and the Sorell Trousers.Let’s talk about the latter today:

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The Sorell trousers are high waist pants with a lot of details inspired by men’s trousers (even the zipper side!). And you’ll recognize the style of the Hollywood actresses I admire: Katherine Hepburn’s casual confidence, Marlene Dietrich’s androgyny, Vivien Leigh’s modernity…
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If you’re a fan of pockets, you’ll be more than happy with its 4 kinds of pockets: slash pockets, watch pockets and then View A has back welt pocket whereas View B has patch pockets. Of course you can choose to make only the front slash pockets to make it easier or if you plan to use a printed fabric.
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Talking about fabrics: Sorell is perfect with a woolen fabric for winter, linen for summer or denim for a retro look. And if your fabric has a little bit of stretch, no problem (but I wouldn’t recommend anything with more than 3 %).
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-7For a vintage look, the trousers legs are wide but the waist and hips are fitted so if you are between 2 sizes or you’re afraid to be unable to sit after lunch, choose the bigger. Anyway, the best solution it still to make a muslin (even a simplified one with the main pieces).
I’ll be coming back with a step-by-step photo tutorial very soon, so even if it’s your first pair of trousers, don’t be afraid to try it!
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-8Just a word on the fabrics i used: View A is made in denim from The Sweet Mercerie and View B in a linen/silk mix from Julián López.

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New patterns: Sorell Trousers and Xerea Dress!

Here we are! With the new patterns! It took time, but I have two new patterns to show you so it was worth the wait ;)Let me introduce:

 

New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-1The Sorell Trousers, inspired by menswear and with wide legs and high waist. Sewing techniques lovers will love it: 4 different kinds of pocket, a front zipper fly…
New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-2The Xerea Dress pattern, inspired by the 60s, it’s the perfect summer dress. It has pockets, front and back yokes. It’s perfect for beginners because there are no button or zipper.
The Xerea dress is available in two versions: View A is a classic shift dress with short sleeves and View B is a sleeveless tent dress.
I’ll come back this afternoon to show you the Sorell trousers in details and the Xerea dress tomorrow.
As per usual, the patterns are available in the shop in PDF and printed versions. Come check them out!
New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-3I also wanted to tell you we are opening today the collective blog « Pauline Alice and you…» which was requested by some of you. You can now register and post pictures of your garments made with Pauline Alice patterns. And … there’s a surprise 😉

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How to sew a fly front zipper

Today, let’s learn how to sew a fly front zipper on your Port trousers. Sewing the zippers on trousers is often one of the most feared step but it really shouldn’t. With this step-by-step photo tutorial, you’ll see it’s actually quite easy!

 

1. These are the pieces you’ll need to install the zipper:
-Fronts x 2 in main fabric
-Fly facings x 1 in main fabric and interfacing (some patterns have the fly facing included in the front piece, like the Sorell trousers for example, and this tutorial is going to be easier to apply in this case).
-Fly shield x 1 in main fabric and interfacing
-Zipper 15 cm (6″) long (it can be longer as in this tutorial)

 

2. Finish the center front seam of the front pieces with serger or zigzag stitch. Repport your marks on the front pieces.

 

3. With right sides together, pin the front pieces together at the center front seam.
4. Stitch from the inseam to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

5. Interface the fly facing piece.
6. Finish the curved seam.

 

7. Pin the fly facing to the left side front piece (when you wear the trousers) with right sides together.
8. Stitch together from the top edge to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

9. Open the fly facing. Trim and press the seam allowances toward the front.
Place the zipper face down (with the teeth toward the fabric) over the zipper facing, with the zipper ribbon touching the front seam. The zipper end should arrive just above the dot mark.
10. Stitch the left side of the zipper ribbon to the fly facing. Turn the facing in and press lightly.

 

11. Interface the fly shield piece.
12. Fold it in half lengthwise and stitch the bottom edge with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.
13. Turn the fly shield inside out, press and finish the edge with a serger or zigzag stitch.

 

14. Press the right side front piece (when you wear the trousers) 0,5 cm (1/4″) toward the inside.
15. Baste or pin the zipper to the folded edge.
16. Baste or pin the fly shield to the zipper.
17. Stitch very close to the folded edge throught all layers (front, zipper and fly shield) from the top edge to the dot mark.

18. Pin the fly shield out of the way so that it won’t get caught when we sew the fly topstitch.

 

19. Close the zipper (but don’t cut it yet). Place the trousers front correctly and draw the topstitching line (you can use the front pattern piece or the fly facing as guide).
20. Stitch the fly topstitching throught both layers (front and fly facing).

 

21. Unpin the fly shield and place it over the zipper. Pin in place again.
22. Make bar tacks to reinforce the fly: one at the bottom of the topstitching line and one at the curve. This time make sure you stitch through the fly shield as well.

 

23. There you go, an easy way to insert a fly front zipper!
Tip: wait until you attach the waistband to cut the zipper!

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Combi-short Dominique: ready for summer!
I’ve not been idle since the release of the new patterns, the Xerea dress and Sorell trousers. I’m already designing the next patterns and I’ve also taken some time to sew summer graments.

combi-short-dominique-ready-summer-sewing-pattern-1When Géraldine of République du Chiffon released her new summer collection, I fell in love with the Dominique jumper and the Juliette shirt, so I ordered them on the very first day.
I started with the Dominique jumper and made just one change: instead of the long legs, I cut the pattern pieces as a short.
I knew I would wear it more easily if it was short, as we have a very very warm summer here.

combi-short-dominique-ready-summer-sewing-pattern-2combi-short-dominique-ready-summer-sewing-pattern-3It was my first garment from RDC patterns and I chose the size according to the measurements, size 36. I could have used the smaller one as it’s a little bit too big (I have to wear it with a belt and it makes some pleats around the waist, not very nice). So for the next one, I’ll go with size 34 and reduce the bodice length just a tiny bit as I’m way shorter than the height its designed for.

combi-short-dominique-ready-summer-sewing-pattern-4combi-short-dominique-ready-summer-sewing-pattern-5Other than than, I’m happy with my Dominique! The light blue linen I bought is perfect for summer, I managed to hammer the snap-on buttons quite well and I love the short version: I find it playful and elegant at the same time.Very soon I’ll show you the Juliette shirt I made…

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Xerea Dress Pattern
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-1Today let’s talk about the perfect summer dress:  the Xerea Dress. Inspired by the 60’s mini dresses, Xerea is easy to sew and easy to wear!
The pattern is available in two versions: View A is a shift dress with short sleeves and View B a sleeveless tent dress with center box pleat. Both views include pockets at the princess seams.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-2Xereaxerea-dress-pattern-sewing-3 is perfect for beginners and will delight advanced (lazy) seamstresses: no zipper, no buttons. The dress is put on easily thanks to the open back neckline, finished with bias binding.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-4For fabrics, I would recommend fabrics with some drape, in particular if you choose the shift dress.
For the shift version, View A, I used an ikat cotton (Henry et Henriette) with piping inserted in the princess seams – perfect for summer – and for the tent version, View B,  I used a jersey (Tejidos Paredes – make sure it’s stable enough: for example ponte knit fabric) for a 60’s style.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-5xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-6The yoke design allow you to use contrasting fabric very easily: how about color blocking or lace accents? All the hems are finished with bias binding, make your own with matching fabric for an invisible finish or add some subtle contrast to your dress.
This pattern can also transition easily into the colder months: lengthen the sleeves or make view B in woolen fabric to wear as a pinafore over a shirt or pullover.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-7I hope you’ll like the new patterns, the Xerea dress and the Sorell trousers!

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