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Your Turia dungarees…

Turia dungarees have been popping up lately and I thought I would show you some of them. So here is the first batch of Turia:

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You remember Adeline’s and Sonia’s pinafore versions? Check how to make this cute variation here.

your-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-2Annie Cotonyour-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-3 was again a tester and her version (and amazing pictures!) is making me want to reach for candy coloured stripes fabric!

your-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-4In classic denim, these will go with all the beautiful handmade tops of Kirsty! Thanks Kirsty for being such a great tester!

your-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-5Oh my! This has to be one the cutest and funniest picture ever! Mirza made her Pink Turia for a the big garage sale of Lille in northern France as part of a group costume. How cute!

your-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-6Karen of Did you make that made a great fall version in corduroy and wrote an amazing tutorial on how to attach the buttons: check it ou on her blog!

your-turia-dungarees-sewing-pattern-7And a pretty black linen version for Annabella, whcih will transition nicely into summer (yes, she’s from New-Zealand!).

I know more Turia are coming as I was so happy to see your progresses on Instragram so I’m really looking forward to see them. Don’t hesitate to send me pictures and links!

And a huge THANK YOU for all your nice words on the 1 year anniversary of the pattern company! I’m really hoping to celebrate a lot more with you!

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Turia dungarees: pinafore dress variation

You’ve been quite a lot to ask me if it was possible to turn the Turia dungarees into a pinafore dress. And my answer is YES! And more importantly, it’s very easy to do!

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Adeline and Sonia have already made this variation and they have tempted me so much. I think it would look so cute with a sweater and tights during the fall/winter. How about corduroy, velvet or brut denim?

TURIA PINAFORE DRESS VARIATION

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1. Take the shorts front (10) and back (11) pieces.

2. You need to decide if you’re going to place the front piece on the fold or if you want to keep the center flat-fell seam. For the centered seam, trace a horizontal line (the blue one) starting from the top of the center front seam and parallel to the granline.

If you prefer to eliminate the center seam, trace a foldline (in red) starting 1,5 cm away from the center front seam and parallel to the grainline. You’ll place the new piece on the fold of the fabric.

3. For the back piece, you need the center seam. Trace a new seam line (in blue) from the top of the center back seam parallel to the grainline.

4. You might want to add some length as well to the hem as the shorts are… well, shorts! I would recommend adding at least 10-15 cm (4″ to 6″) for a mini to mid-thighs length dress. Just follow the side seams and add the desired length.

5. Stitch the seams the exact same way! See, that’s a very easy variation!

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Turia dungarees: Pockets tutorial
I’m not going to make a full Sew-Along for the Turia dungarees pattern but rather a series of small tutorials on the most important features of the pattern construction. The pattern construction in itself is quite simple, apart from the pockets and the straps, there are only 3 main pieces: the bodice, the font and the back. The most complicated step is certainly how to make a flat-fell seam, as it may well be a new technique for you. Don’t worry, it’s easy and we’ll cover it on Friday!
But let’s start today with the patch pockets! Because dungarees are a casual and most importantly, a practical garment (yes, yes, even for going to the ladies room, it just takes practice!), pockets are an essential element.
I’m going to show you how to sew easily the front and back patch pockets:

FRONT POCKETS

turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1To help you fold the seam allowances in, staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″). You don’t need to staystitch the top edge of the front pocket.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Clip the seam allowance of pocket opening: that’s the curved edge. Be careful not to cut the stitches!
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Fold the seam allowance to the inside and press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Stitch two rows of topstitching along the curved edge. Here is how I like to sew my topstitching so that the distance between the rows is always the same:
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6I like to stitch the first row about 3 mm (1/8″) from the edge. Then I like to place the edge of the needle plate against the first stitching line and follow it (that’s roughly 8 mm or 5/16″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances.
Press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Place the pocket on the dungarees front piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. The top edges of the pocket and the front piece should match. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the curved and top edges open.

BACK POCKETS

turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-9Staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-10turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-11Turn the top edge along the staystitch, press. Fold again and stitch two rows of topstitching.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-12Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances. Press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-13Place the pocket on the dungarees back piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open.
On Friday, we’ll see how to make the flat-fell seam and next week, I’ll explain how to change the pattern into a pinafore dress very easily as quite a lot were interested in this variation. Have a great week!
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New Pattern: the Turia Dunagrees!

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Here it is, the new pattern! I’m so happy to present the Turia dungarees!
new-pattern-turia-dunagrees-sewing-2Dungarees (or overalls as you wish!) for a grownup? Really? Well YES of course!
The Turia dungarees pattern feature front and back patch pockets, sides zippers and adjustables straps. It also comes in two length: the slightly tapered and cropped ankle length will accompany you from summer to winter made in gabardine or corduroy and layered, and the more payful short version is ideal for the warmer months (or why not wear it with tights?).

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The Turia dungarees are quite easy to make, you’ll even learn how to make beautiful and sturdy flat-fell seams. Easy to fit as well with the adjustable straps and straight leg slightly tapered at the ankle, it’s comfortable and yet stylish. Just pair them with sandals during the day or some heels for a night out.
They can be made in a great variety of fabrics: from light to medium weight wovens such as cotton, linen, gabardine, chambray and denim, corduroy, twill…

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I hope you’ll love this pattern as much as I do. It’s inspired by dungarees my mom gave me years ago, she wore them in her 20’s and I’m still wearing them… What can I say? I’m a sentimental!

 

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PAULINE ALICE MINI

This new pattern release is a little bit special: these are not the usual women patterns but a special collection for kids! This is a first for Pauline Alice! I’ve been wanting to design a small collection of kids patterns when I was pregnant. I was already imagining my baby in comfortable and easy pieces. With Lucile, we’ve been thinking about how to design a collection of three patterns that could be worn as a whole outfit or separately. We also wanted unisex pieces that would work for a variety of colours, fabrics and prints. That’s how the Mini collection was born. Let’s see the three patterns of the collection:

THE TUNIC

First, we’ve got a tunic. Inspired by the “vareuse” (the traditional shirt worn by breton sea men), its volume, cut and yoke make it a pattern easy to make and to modify. I love the small gathers and the pockets! It buttons in the back and has kimono sleeves, that’s so easy to wear. For a little boy, I see it perfectly in chambray or linen, and for a girl, why not use  a liberty print or swiss dot fabric?

THE OVERALL

After Turia for the grown-ups, welcome to the kids overall! Again, we’ve chosen a loose fit with cool details: multiple buttons on the straps, buttons on the side and at the inseam for practicality. Perfect for every season: cotton or linen for summer, denim or corduroy for winter.

THE COAT

Finally, to complete the outfit, there’s only a coat missing! Like a classic rain coat, it has a hood, a back flap, double pockets and raglan sleeves. Lined, it’s neatly finished inside and out. Here we have made a mid-season version in coated cotton but it would look just as good in wool or gabardine.

All three patterns have an intermediate level. Nonetheless, we will share some tutorials over the next few weeks.

 

– You can find the patterns as a printed pack or as a PDF pack with the three pieces. The printed pack comes with instructions in french only, make sure you select the language to receive the downloadable instructions in english. –

I hope you’ll love them! Let me know if you have any question.


Photography: Lidiet

Fabric credit: Merchant and Mills

 

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Flat-fell seam tutorial
One thing you need to know is that I don’t have a serger. It means I’m obsessed about seam allowances and how to finish them neatly so they don’t fray or even show on the inside. My favourite techniques are lining (I line everything I can, now you know why the Alameda dress is fully lined!), french seams, bias binding and when there is no other solution, the zig-zag stitch (the less, the better).
But with trousers, there is another seam available, which is strong, beautiful on the outside AND on the inside and leaves all the raw edges enclosed: the flat-fell seam!
So let’s see how to make this flat-fell seam as you’re going to use it on your Turia dungarees. This is also the typical seam you can find on denim trousers or men shirts.
FLAT-FELL SEAM
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Place your pieces WRONG SIDES together (yes, yes, wrong sides, I know it’s weird!). Pin and stitch together (note: 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances included in the pattern).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Press the seam allowances to one side.
Note: for the center front and center back seam, it’s important to press the seam in the opposite direction if you want them to match at the crotch. For example, press the center front seam allowances to the right and the center back seam allowances to the left.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Trim the bottom seam allowance to a minimum (about 0.5 cm or 3/16″).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6Fold the superior seam allowance over the trimmed one. It should enclose the bottom seam allowance. Press.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Stitch very close to the folded edge. Try to keep your stitches parallel to the first stitching line.
There you go: a very strong and clean seam with double topstitching from the right side and no raw edges on the inside.
Did you know the flat-fell seam? I hope you’re going to use it on your sewing projects, it’s a great technique!

 

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