Tag:

bias binding

Free pattern: Bailen top and dress

by Pauline Alice 22 December, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
2015 has been such a great year for me on a personal and a professional plan, most of it thanks to you. I’m so grateful and I wish you the very best for the new year to come.

As a thank you gift, I’ve been working on a special pattern for you all. Now it’s time to releave and release it, in time for the Holidays!

silk Bailén top: fabric from Julián López

cotton Bailén dress: fabric from Les trouvailles d’Amandine

Available as a free download, the Bailén Top & Dress pattern is easy to make and wear. The pattern is cut on the bias to give a great fit without addind any type of closure: the front darts and bias cut allow the fabric to follow the curves of the body without restriction. There are two lengths included so you can either make a top or a short dress.
You’ll learn how to sew french seams, a baby hem and to use bias binding to finish the neckline and make straps.
Depending on the fabric you choose, the Bailén pattern can be worn in multiple ways: think of a silk camisole or slip, a rayon summer dress, a cotton voile nightdress…

Find the Bailén pattern on the shop and sign in to download it.
I hope you’ll like it!

22 December, 2015 25 comments

Blog Patrons pauline alice Tutoriels et techniques Xerea

How to sew bias binding on the Xerea neckline

by Pauline Alice 16 June, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

I didn’t think I would have to make a tutorial for the Xerea dress but yesterday i received 2 emails from seamstresses who had trouble with the back yoke of the pattern. They told me it was too short for the back piece and didn’t match at the shoulders.
After checking the pattern, I understood where the confusion came from: the pattern pieces are correct but it would be easy to get that difference in length if you didn’t sew the bias binding just as instructed.
So let’s see how you should attach the bias binding on the Xerea dress neckline.

bias1 Here is the illustration for this step in the instructions booklet. The instructions tell you to “finish the neckline with bias binding: with right sides together, pin the bias binding to the neckline matching the edges. Stitch on the first fold line. Fold the bias binding to the inside twice and edgestitch.”In pictures, this would look like that:

Here is your bias binding: double fold and a pretty normal width, here approx. 2,5 cm (1″) when completely open.

First, pin the bias binding on the neckline, with right sides together (oups, my fabric is upside down, make sure yours is with right sides together!). The bias binding raw edge should match the fabric raw edge.

Then stitch inside the first fold line crease. This should be between 0,3 and 0,5 cm (1/8″ and 3/16″) from the edge.

Fold the bias over the seam allowances along the center fold and then fold it again to the inside. Press. Edgestitch.
The bias binding is stitched on the inside of the neckline and is now invisible. This will give you a very narrow seam allowance around the neckline and the back yoke seams are matching correctly in the back.

You can also fold the bias binding only once to the inside. This will give you more structure to the hem, but I would recommend this only for the sleeve and dress hem, not the neckline.

Another possibility would be to make the bias binding a decorative part of the dress and make it visible on the neckline.

Pin the bias binding to the neckline, matching the raw edges. I like to pin it to the wrong side but this is a personal preference, you can also pin it right sides together. Stitch inside the first fold line crease. Fold the bias binding over the seam allowances to cover them and edgestitch (make sure your binding covers the first line of stitching you did). This would look nice with a constrating color binding.Please let me know if you have any questions.

16 June, 2015 1 comment

Tutorials and techniques

Tutorial: easy binding vent

by Pauline Alice 29 January, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

I know a few of you have requested a tutorial on how to sew the sleeve vent for the Carme blouse pattern. I wrote one a couple of months ago for Craftsy so I thought it would be nice to share it here as well (with translation).
This tutorial might come in handy if you’re making the new Eliana dress pattern as this is the technique used to make the front/back opening on the bodice.
It’s quite easy and produces such great results. If you are making a blouse or shirt, using sheer or lightweight fabric and want to add a vent to a one-piece sleeve or an opening on the bodice, this tutorial definitely is for you!

Here’s how to sew an easy vent with binding!

Supplies:

You’ll need your fabric piece (sleeve or bodice) and a strip of fabric cut on grain twice as long as your opening and about 1″ large (you can also use bias binding, just know that it may not sit as flat as on grain fabric).

Step 1:
Cut the opening.

Step 2:
With right sides facing you, pin the sleeve/bodice opening and the vent together. The center of the sleeve/bodice opening will sit about 1/4″ from the vent edge, this will account for the pivot/shit of fabric.

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-4

Step 3:Stitch 1/4″ from the edge. When you reach the center, put the needle down, lift the foot and pivot the fabric to the back. Make sure there is no fold at the corner: the stitching line is just barely on the sleeve/bodice.
Then continue until the end.

Step 4:
Press the seam allowance toward the vent. Then fold the other edge of the vent by 1/4″ and press.
Fold the vent over the seam allowances. The folded edge of the vent should sit just over the stitching line. Pin in place.

Step 5:
Edgestitch. Remember to pivot when you reach the center.

Here is how it looks from the right side:

Step 6:
Fold the vent with right sides together. Stitch diagonally across the end, it will keep the vent inside and flat.

Press the vent to one side.

There you go! Now you can add cuffs or hem your sleeves for the Carme and stitch the bias binding neckline on the Eliana.

29 January, 2015 12 comments

Blog Eliana Patrons pauline alice

New Pattern: Eliana Dress

by Pauline Alice 20 January, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

It feels like yesterday I was releasing the Quart coat and here I am, with a new pattern for you! Well, truth be told, I don’t work super fast, but this new pattern was designed and printed at the same time as the coat, that’s why I’m able to offer it to you so soon.Please welcome the Eliana dress:

Eliana is the kind of dress you can make so many times and it will not look the same: depending on the fabric you choose and the variations, you’ll go from chic to casual, winter to summer, one color to contrasting hues…

I’ve been making samples with elastic waistband and I loved it so much I knew I needed to design a pattern with that detail. On the Eliana dress, you can choose to have a comfortable elastic encased waistband or add a ribbon to tie the dress around your waist.

On the very first sketches of the Eliana dress, the model was supposed to be for summer with only the sleeveless version. But soon it seems like raglan sleeve options were perfect to get a versatile pattern. And because comfort and practicality are essential, the dress has inseam pockets.

Easy to make with no zipper or button, you can choose to make the front or back opening and just tie it or let it loose. Use contrast binding or self fabric as an original detail to frame the softly gathered neckline.

The flirty skirt hits just above the knee, perfect to wear either with heels or flats.
The sleeve version (View A) is made in black rayon voile with a grey japanese print (trees and birds).
The sleeveless version (View B) is made in cotton voile with an ethnic print, black bias binding and black grosgrain ribbon.
Both fabrics were purchased at The Sweet Mercerie.

I hope you like the Eliana dress. Which version is your favourite?
Buy the Eliana dress pattern, in print or PDF, at the shop!

20 January, 2015 69 comments