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princess seams

new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-1There’s nothing I like more to sew and wear than coats! And more than once I’ve cursed my sunny (and too warm) city because winter is too mild to wear heavy outerwear.
But it was time for me to take my pencils, my ruler and my fabrics to offer you the pattern of a nice coat full of possibilities: the Quart coat!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-2new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-3With its high collar, pockets and long zipped sleeves, the Quart coat will protect you from the cold with style. The princess seams will highlight your figure nicely and the pleated side is the perfect girly detail.
Quart coat pattern made in navy blue raw silk.
I was inspired by Burberry’s military style: elegant and classic outerwear that will match easily with whatever you’re wearing and that you’ll love wearing year after year.
Besides, the Quart coat can be made in wool coating for winter as well as lighter fabrics (gabardine, twill…) for a trenchcoat version perfect for mid-season.
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-5new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-6The Quart pattern, with its advanced level, has these small details that will make the intermediate seamstress progress and will please the expert ones (think handstitched interfacing, bound buttonholes, zipped cuffs, epaulettes…).

The glossary on the last page comes back on the terms and techniques essentials to make this pattern. And because it’s starting to be an habit now, I’m already preparing a photo tutorial to follow in depth the Quart coat construction.

Head to the shop and get the Quart coat pattern!
I can’t wait to see what you’ll come up with, your thoughts on the pattern and to show you the testers versions.
Have a great week!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-8ps: I’d like to remind you that you can take advantage of your order of the printed pattern to receive the new folders for free! If you have pauline alice printed patterns still in their (thin) envelopes, add their names in the comment box when confirming your order and they’ll be sent without any additional cost.



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Today we’ll see how to make a Full Bust Adjustment on the princess seam of the Alameda dress pattern. But first, you might be wondering: How do I know if I need a FBA?
Well, it’s not that difficult. The first clue is that you have more than a B bra cup (sorry to all the ladies with bosom, as the patterns are drafted by a small chested girl – me! – this fitted design will need a FBA to get fit on you). You also want to make a FBA if:
  • compared to all your measurements, your bust measurements is one (or more) size bigger.
  • when you made your muslin, you went for a bigger size for the bust but have now some extra fabric at the armscye.
  • the waistline is pulling up at the front.
Let’s take an example: Maria’s measurements are bust 92 cm (36″), waist 70 cm (27 1/2″) and hips 95 cm (37 1/4″). For the waist and hips, she should cut a size 38 but her bust belongs to size 40. The problem if she cuts size 40 for the bust and 38 for the waist and hips is that the armscye and shoulder lines will also belong to size 40, which will be too big for her and most likely there will be some extra fabric where the princess seam starts and at the shoulder seams. The solution is to cut the pattern pieces in 38 and add extra volume only in the bust area.
And of course make a muslin before to check the fit and correct the adjustments!
Let’s see how to make the Full Bust Adjustment:
1Let’s take Maria’s measurements again: her bust measurement is 92 cm (36″) when the one corresponding to her size 38 is 88 cm (34 1/2″), there is a 4 cm (1 1/2″) difference. She’ll cut the pattern in size 38 and add 2 cm (3/4″) at each bust seam to make the full bust adjustment, without increasing the waistline or the neckline.

1. Take your pattern bodice front and bodice side front pieces. Draw the seam allowances and all the marks (notches, grainline…).On the bodice side front, we’re going to draw 3 lines:

  •    1: from the waistline to the fullest part of the bust.
  •    2: from 1/3 of the armhole (remember that the armhole is made of the the front and side front bodice pieces) to the fullest part of the bust.
  •   3: from the fullest part of the bust, draw a diagonal line toward the side seam allowance, like a dart.
32. Cut lines 1 and 2 and stop when you reach the seam allowance.
3. Cut the seam allowance but make sure it’s still attached.
4. Cut line 3 and stop just before you reach the fullest part of the bust.
5. Tape the princess seam to a piece of paper and pivot the pattern along lines 1, 2 and 3 so that the opening at line 1 measures the  2 cm (3/4″) increase we need. Make sure the 2 cm (3/4″) increase is even all the way down line 1. Tape the pattern in place on the paper.
6. As you can see, the waistline is not even. Draw a line parallel to the waistline on the princess seam part.
7. Cut along the line and place the small piece on the continuity of the waistline, 2 cm (3/4″) from line 1. Tape.
8. Cut roughly around the new pattern piece.
9. Draw a line extending line 3 to the princess seam.
10. Cut along line 3 until you reach the first pivot. Close the “dart” and tape.
11. Cut the line 3 from the princess seam to the pivot. Place a piece of paper under the spread “dart” and tape.
12. We need to take 2 cm (3/4″) in at the side seam to keep the waistline the original width (this is the measurement we added at the bust). Draw a new side seam starting from line 3 and ending 2 cm (3/4″) from the waistline edge.
13. Now we need to add the increases we made to the side front piece to the front. Trace 2 lines at the same level you made the increases.
14. Measure how much you added to the side front piece and report that on the front piece. For the bust, measure the seam allowance line, not the cutting line.
15. Here you go: your new pattern pieces!  We have increased the bust area without touching to the waistline, armhole or neckline.
If you have any questions, let me know in the comments.
Are you going to make a FBA?


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