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Carme Blouse: Safari Dress Variation

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I’ve always wanted to make a saharienne inspired dress out of the Carme blouse pattern and I woke on Saturday morning with an urge to sew it Now! So I drank my morning tea and headed to the sewing room and I got out for lunch with this Safari Carme Dress.

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As you can see, it’s still missing some closure on the front placket, I’m planning to make some kind of lace-up closure with eyelets like the Yves Saint Laurent original saharienne. But I was missing a hammer so I’ll finish it later…I used a natural linen, it’s so comfortable for the summer… I think it would also look great in light cotton or chambray. The fabric is from the Fabrics-store, they have an amazing linen selection (they sent me this fabric to make a tutorial of the Carme blouse and I had just enough left for the dress).

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Here you can see the loose shape gathered at the waist by the belt and the other details I changed on the original Carme blouse pattern: I shortened the sleeves, added a breast pocket, lengthened the placket, added belt loops and lengthened the length of the pattern. These are very easy changes. Let’s see them on a diagram in case you want to make a Carme dress:

tutorial1

In red are the original pattern pieces and in blue the new ones, in black the pieces and marks that you don’t need to change:
  •  You can keep the pleated yoke if you wish but I wanted a simpler look so I joined the yoke (4) and the front (1) together and drew the new bodice front. I lengthen it by about 30 cm on the side (careful, the hem is curved).
  • I lengthened the back bodice by 30 cm as well (this measurement will depend on your height of course, I’m small so I don’t need to add a lot but you might want to add more or less length) and I made a more pronounced and longer curve at the back (I think the back is about 8 cm longer than the front).
  • I lengthened the front placket (5), it’s about 40 cm now.
  • You can use the same collar pieces (6).
  • I shortened the sleeves (3) right on the “shorten or lengthen here” mark and raised the new square mark about 12 cm under the top of the sleeve head. I used the same sleeve tab pieces (7).
  • I added 4 belt loops at waist level (2 on the front and 2 on the back) to wear a belt and give some shape to the dress. They are made of self fabric bias strips. These could also be place at hips level for a different look.
  • I added a breast pocket with flap. I made a box pleat pocket for an utilitarian look.
  • The only thing you would have to be careful about is the hip measurements: be sure to add enough room for your hips as the original pattern hits just above them. With following the lines and opening them just a little bit, my dress is very confortable and loose, but if you are pear shaped, that’s something I’d keep in mind when drawing the new pattern lines.
That’s it! Quite easy, no? I hope some of you will be tempted by this Safari Carme variation and if you have any question, feel free to contact me.

 

 

22 June, 2014 34 comments
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How to sew Sleeves – Carme Sew-Along
First, let’s sart with some beautiful Carme blouses made by two lovely french seamstresses: Annie Coton‘s beautiful dark blue blouse and Sandra’s romantic swiss dot Carme. Please be sure to check their wonderful versions, it will surely inspire you (as well as they amazing blogs, I sure know as I’ve spent sooo much time browsing through their archives and admiring their stylish handmade wardrobe).
Now, let’s talk about the Sew-Along! Today is a big day as we’re going to make the entire sleeve piece. But don’t worry, there are 4 steps but each one is quite easy on its own.
Let’s begin!
SLEEVE VENT

SLEEVE TAB

SLEEVE CUFF

SET THE SLEEVE

I hope the videos are being useful and that you’re not already fed up with the jingle and my broken English (I know I am after editing the videos and watching them so much). I wish a great day and I’ll see you on Friday for the collar part of the Sew-Along.

 

19 March, 2014 4 comments
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Carme Sew-Along: schedule and what you’ll need…

I’m very happy to make a Sew-Along for the Carme blouse, and with videos! How great is that? I think it’s going to be really cool and easy for you to follow (and you won’t have to read a 10 km long post everyday other day, hehe). The other good thing is that all the videos will be available indefinitely, so even if you can’t join right now, you’ll be able to access them here on the blog or through Youtube.Let’s talk about the schedule. As you might want to buy fabric (and maybe make a muslin), I’ll give you more than a full week to gather the tools and material for the Carme blouse. Here is the schedule:

Monday, March 3rd: inspiration and variation
Monday, March 10th: Cut the fabric
Wednesday, March 12th: Pin tucks
Friday, March 14th: Yoke and placket
Monday, March 17th: French seams
Wednesday, March 19th: Sleeves
Friday, March 21st: Collar
Monday, March 24th: Hem
Wendesday, March 26th: Buttonholes
Monday, April 7th: Your Carme Party!!!

You can start collecting your material right now, here’s what you’ll need:

  • Lightweight woven fabric such as cotton voile, lawn, batiste,dotted swiss, chiffon, linen, chambray…
  • Fabric (150 cm wide): 1,7 m  (60″ wide: 1,9 yard)
  • Fabric (115 cm wide): 2 m   (45″ wide: 2 1/4 yards)
  • 10 small buttons
  • matching thread
  • optional: fusible interfacing for the collar if your fabric is too light on its own (20 x 50 cm or 19,7″ x 7,9″)

And here is the Sew-Along button (Click right on the image to save it):

So let me know if you’re going to join and don’t hesitate to ask me anything in the comment section so that everybody can share. I also created a flickr group so you can post pictures of your Carme blouse.
I’m really looking forward to start sewing with you!
Have a wonderful weekend!

 

 

28 February, 2014 25 comments
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New Pattern: Carme Blouse
carme blouse pattern, blouse pattern, pauline alice, pin tuck, yoke, button placket, sleeve tab
I’m really happy to present the brand new pattern: the Carme blouse!
This is a casual, and yet feminine, blouse with a button placket, a pin-tucked yoke, a small mao collar and long gathered sleeves that can be rolled up with the sleeve tab.
carme blouse pattern, blouse pattern, pauline alice, pin tuck, yoke, button placket, sleeve tab
carme blouse pattern, blouse pattern, pauline alice, pin tuck, yoke, button placket, sleeve tab
I wanted to design a blouse that you could wear everyday and still look elegant. With your favourite pair of trousers or your favourite skirt, it will be perfect to wear from the morning to work until the night for a drink, or on the weekend walking in the city.
2copiacarme blouse pattern, blouse pattern, pauline alice, pin tuck, yoke, button placket, sleeve tab
I really hope you’ll love the pattern as much as I do! I’m preparing a series of video tutorials so you don’t have to feel intimidated by the yoke detail and the button placket. The pattern is for an intermediate level, but with the tutorials, an advanced beginner can easily make it.
Buy the pattern here: Carme blouse pattern.
Have a great weekend!

 

21 February, 2014 54 comments
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