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Turia tutorial

Turia dungarees: pinafore dress variation

You’ve been quite a lot to ask me if it was possible to turn the Turia dungarees into a pinafore dress. And my answer is YES! And more importantly, it’s very easy to do!

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Adeline and Sonia have already made this variation and they have tempted me so much. I think it would look so cute with a sweater and tights during the fall/winter. How about corduroy, velvet or brut denim?

TURIA PINAFORE DRESS VARIATION

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1. Take the shorts front (10) and back (11) pieces.

2. You need to decide if you’re going to place the front piece on the fold or if you want to keep the center flat-fell seam. For the centered seam, trace a horizontal line (the blue one) starting from the top of the center front seam and parallel to the granline.

If you prefer to eliminate the center seam, trace a foldline (in red) starting 1,5 cm away from the center front seam and parallel to the grainline. You’ll place the new piece on the fold of the fabric.

3. For the back piece, you need the center seam. Trace a new seam line (in blue) from the top of the center back seam parallel to the grainline.

4. You might want to add some length as well to the hem as the shorts are… well, shorts! I would recommend adding at least 10-15 cm (4″ to 6″) for a mini to mid-thighs length dress. Just follow the side seams and add the desired length.

5. Stitch the seams the exact same way! See, that’s a very easy variation!

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Flat-fell seam tutorial
One thing you need to know is that I don’t have a serger. It means I’m obsessed about seam allowances and how to finish them neatly so they don’t fray or even show on the inside. My favourite techniques are lining (I line everything I can, now you know why the Alameda dress is fully lined!), french seams, bias binding and when there is no other solution, the zig-zag stitch (the less, the better).
But with trousers, there is another seam available, which is strong, beautiful on the outside AND on the inside and leaves all the raw edges enclosed: the flat-fell seam!
So let’s see how to make this flat-fell seam as you’re going to use it on your Turia dungarees. This is also the typical seam you can find on denim trousers or men shirts.
FLAT-FELL SEAM
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1
flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Place your pieces WRONG SIDES together (yes, yes, wrong sides, I know it’s weird!). Pin and stitch together (note: 1,5 cm or 5/8″ seam allowances included in the pattern).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Press the seam allowances to one side.
Note: for the center front and center back seam, it’s important to press the seam in the opposite direction if you want them to match at the crotch. For example, press the center front seam allowances to the right and the center back seam allowances to the left.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Trim the bottom seam allowance to a minimum (about 0.5 cm or 3/16″).

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6Fold the superior seam allowance over the trimmed one. It should enclose the bottom seam allowance. Press.

 

flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7flat-fell-seam-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Stitch very close to the folded edge. Try to keep your stitches parallel to the first stitching line.
There you go: a very strong and clean seam with double topstitching from the right side and no raw edges on the inside.
Did you know the flat-fell seam? I hope you’re going to use it on your sewing projects, it’s a great technique!

 

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New Pattern: the Turia Dunagrees!

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Here it is, the new pattern! I’m so happy to present the Turia dungarees!
new-pattern-turia-dunagrees-sewing-2Dungarees (or overalls as you wish!) for a grownup? Really? Well YES of course!
The Turia dungarees pattern feature front and back patch pockets, sides zippers and adjustables straps. It also comes in two length: the slightly tapered and cropped ankle length will accompany you from summer to winter made in gabardine or corduroy and layered, and the more payful short version is ideal for the warmer months (or why not wear it with tights?).

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The Turia dungarees are quite easy to make, you’ll even learn how to make beautiful and sturdy flat-fell seams. Easy to fit as well with the adjustable straps and straight leg slightly tapered at the ankle, it’s comfortable and yet stylish. Just pair them with sandals during the day or some heels for a night out.
They can be made in a great variety of fabrics: from light to medium weight wovens such as cotton, linen, gabardine, chambray and denim, corduroy, twill…

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I hope you’ll love this pattern as much as I do. It’s inspired by dungarees my mom gave me years ago, she wore them in her 20’s and I’m still wearing them… What can I say? I’m a sentimental!

 

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