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Ça y est, l’été est là et j’ai besoin de vêtements confortables et jolis à la fois. Je peux vivre un été entier en robe mais parfois, j’ai envie d’enfiler un pantalon, un short ou même une salopette quand il fait chaud et que je veux être à l’aise dans quelque chose d’ample… Mais à l’aise ne veut pas dire moche, non, il faut quand même que la dite pièce soit jolie et un minimum habillée pour pouvoir sortir avec.
Et j’enchaine donc avec ma découverte du patron Scalloped Hem Shorts de Pattern Runway (ourlet festonné). Il est parfait: le juste mélange entre cool et chic, pour ces jours chauds où on passe d’une matinée à la plage à un après-midi shopping et une soirée entre potes (en vrai, j’ai passé ma journée assise devant mon ordi, mais pour ça aussi il est parfait!).
13Enfin si vous voulez le mettre toute la journée, je ne vous recommande pas de le faire en lin comme moi. Et oui, le lin, ça se froisse, je le sais bien pourtant! Mais ce lin enduit je l’ai depuis un an et j’adore son aspect cuir, je trouve que ça allait bien au côté chic du patron. Mais après être restée assise seulement 15 minutes avant de prendre les photos, il était déjà tout froissé!
5Le patron est très bien fait: j’adore les détails! La couture sur le devant, les poches italiennes, les poches passepoilées au dos, l’ourlet (évidemment!) avec juste une vague  (plus chic que les petits festons je trouve)… des petits plus élégants qu’on trouve rarement sur des shorts.
Comme il n’y a pas de table de mesures du vêtement fini, j’aurais du faire une toile au lieu de découper la taille qui correspondait à mes mensurations. J’avais lu en plus que le patron taillait un peu grand. En effet, j’ai coupé la taille XS mais j’ai du coudre des marges de 1,5 cm au lieux de celles d’1 cm comprises dans le patron car il était trop grand à la taille et aux hanches. Il est toujours un peu grand donc la prochaine fois je découperai directement la taille en dessous (XXS, je n’ai jamais fait une taille aussi petite). Mais bon, c’est ma faute pour ne pas avoir fait de toile avant, fainéante que je suis.
4Les instructions sont très claires (bon, si vous n’avez jamais posé de poche passepoilée, je vous recommande quand même de prendre votre temps et d’aller voir le tutoriel sur le blog de Pattern Runway). J’ai cousu des fausses poches passepoilées car je n’avais pas envie que les marges se voient à travers le lin assez fin et car je n’allais pas les utiliser. Pour le reste, j’ai suivi les instructions à la lettre et je suis ravie du résultat.
Et vous, vous avez un patron de shorts préféré?

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Le passepoil! Je trouve ça charmant et désuet comme détail, un brin rétro, une touche originale et tellement facile à faire en fait… Bref, j’adore!

Ces derniers temps, j’ai joué avec du passepoil, et même si on en trouve de toutes les couleurs dans les merceries, ça ne vous dirait pas d’en avoir juste dans ce ton de bleu de votre tissu préféré? Où dans votre imprimé favori?

C’est donc parti pour un petit tuto passepoil maison!

121. Voilà du passepoil acheté. Voyons donc la construction: un cordon pris entre un ruban de biais, avec une ligne de piqure très près du-dit cordon. Le fait que le ruban soit coupé dans le biais donne au passepoil une grande souplesse et en fait un parfait allié des coutures en courbes.

32. Découper un carré dans votre tissu. Le mien mesure 25 cm x 25 cm (ça m’a donné un ruban de biais de 2,4 m) mais vous pouvez choisir plus ou moins grand si vous voulez.

43. Découper le carré en deux dans le sens de la diagonale. Cela nous donne le biais.

54. Endroit contre endroit, piquer les côtés ensemble (les côtés droits, pas les diagonales) très près du bord.

65. Ouvrir les marges au fer à repasser.

76. Dessiner des lignes parallèles à 2,5 cm du bord (le long du biais) sur l’envers du tissu). La dernière ligne peut être moins large (la mienne mesure 2,2 cm) selon la profondeur des marges piquées auparavant.

87. La partie un peu plus complexe, en tout cas pour moi. Endroit contre endroit, faire revenir les bords l’un contre l’autre en faisant coïncider les lignes le long de la ligne de piqure (0.3 cm environ). La première rangée de chaque côté est déportée, comme sur la photo. Épingler en place et piquer.

98. Maintenant la partie que j’adore. La pièce ressemble à un tube. Découper le long des lignes en commençant par la première rangée jusqu’à arriver au bout.

109. Nous avons donc le ruban de biais et nous avons besoin du cordon.

1110. Placer le cordon au centre du ruban de biais, sur l’envers du tissu. Plier le ruban en deux et refermer les bords sur le cordon, épingler pour maintenir en place.

1211. Avec un pied de biche à fermeture éclair, piquer le plus près possible du cordon (si possible avec du fil assorti! J’ai utilisé un fil constrastant pour qu’on voit mieux).

1312. Et voilà, un passepoil maison! Maintenant, il vous faut juste un projet où l’incorporer!
Voici quelques exemples: ici et .

Et vous, vous aimez ajouter du passepoil à vos créations? Vous l’achetez tout fait ou vous le réalisez vous-même?

 

 

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Le voilà, mon pull Il Grande Favorito! Mon favori, oui oui! Ce n’est pas difficile car c’est le premier pull que je tricote (après un gilet cet hiver).

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Il m’aura fallut 2 mois pour le tricoter, à force de soirée tricot devant la télé et grâce à une heure par-ci, une demi-heure par-là…
Mais c’est un tricot qui se fait tout seul. On me l’avait conseillé car c’est un patron simple et qui a quand même une forme sympa et travaillée. Je dois avouer que je suis conquise par la simplicité de ce pull (combiné à une laine beige qui va avec tout!) et les détails du bas plus long, son absence de couture (il se tricote en rond avec des aiguilles circulaires) et les manches raglan.
sweater-grande-favorito-my-favorite-sewing-pattern-2sweater-grande-favorito-my-favorite-sewing-pattern-3

 

Je pensais pourtant ne pas y arriver mais j’ai bien envie d’en commencer un second… comme ça il sera prêt pour l’hiver prochain!

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Les détails: laine Lanas Stop extra mérino achetée dans une petite mercerie et patron Il Grande Favorito de Isabell Kramer acheté sur Ravelry (avec explications disponibles en français).
Tricoté en double (laine 4 mm au lieu de 6 mm recommandé) avec aiguilles circulaires de 6 mm, ça lui donne un côté plus mou ;-)En conclusion: je l’ai porté tout le week end et je confirme: un Grand Favori!

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Let’s continue with Fall/Winter sewing: after the inspiration, let me show you what I plan on sewing.
Hopefully the weather will behave and the temperatures will go down (but I really don’t know, I might just wear my bikini and go to the beach this afternoon. I’m not joking!).
The fabric is mine and the illustrations are to give you an idea of the shape, but I will draft my own patterns (you might even see some of them later if I am happy of how they turned out!)
 
fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-1I have this beautiful burgundy wool that will be perfect for a jacket/skirt ensemble. I’m thinking of a short swing jacket and a pencil skirt with knife pleats at the back. And the light pink lining for a little bit of contrast.
 

 

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-2With the same pattern as the short swing jacket, I want to make a swing coat. I will just make it longer (or I hope it will work like that). I have a bright baby blue wool/cotton fabric with a diamond pattern in relief. With a bright green lining, it will be a very nice coat to brighten the winter.

 

fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-3These two combinations are for skirts: A-line skirts with pleats. I need more skirts, I have lots of dresses but very few skirts. So I will add two for the winter: one in wool tweed in green, pink and brown with a bottle green lining and the other one in purple wool with blue/purple lining.
 
fall-winter-sewing-plan-pattern-4And a winter Camí dress of course! 3/4 sleeves or long, I still don’t know. I have a nice cotton/wool fabric but I might have to change the collar, it might be too heavy. It’s dark grey with purple leaves, very subtle.
Are you ready for next week? I’m so excited to show you the new pattern. I really hope you’ll like it!
It will be out on Thursday! Monday I’ll let you know more…
Have a great week end and see you then…

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After so many previews, here are the final pictures of the flamenca dress. Enjoy!
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As I didn’t know if I was going to be able to take good quality pictures during the Andalusian party, we decided to go to the park before and have a little impromptue photoshoot. And just so you can see my accessorizes (blue of course), here is a picture from the party with my friends Mari Paz and Pilar (who brought from Sevilla the beautiful flower and earrings. Thank you Pilar!).
 
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I hope you enjoyed the flamenca dress series and if you have any question, feel free to ask, I’d be delighted to answer (or try to…)!

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Let’s follow yesterday’s post and continue on the flamenca dress.
We have set the the sleeves in the body and attached them to the lining, what we need to do now is make the skirt, join it to the dress, sew the zipper on and we are ready to hit the street.

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I chose not to line the skirt flounces (contrary to the sleeve ones) because the outside is not going to show and it takes too much fabric (I might never wear this dress again for all I know).
1-Sew together all the circles of the same colour so you obtain one big flounce.
2-Stitch a row of basting along the inner curve of the flounce and clip (like for the sleeve).
flamenca-dress-part-4-sewing-pattern-13-Here is a drawing (very bad!) I made to explain how to place the flounces on the skirt. You see that the first flounce is sewn right side up and the following ones wrong side up with the flounce facing upward (that way, the seam allowance is hidden nder the flounce when folded).
flamenca-dress-part-4-sewing-pattern-2flamenca-dress-part-4-sewing-pattern-3flamenca-dress-part-4-sewing-pattern-44-Repeat step 7 of the previous post to sew the back the dress (remember to sew each flounce separately).
5-Baste the zipper and sew it to the dress. Attach the lining to the zipper and hem it where the bodice meets the skirt.
flamenca-dress-part-4-sewing-pattern-56-Hem the skirt and the flounces as you choose (decorative binding, turn in hem…).
I wish you all a nice week and I leave you with this picture (the « real » post is coming in a few days, I promise).
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I am getting ready right now for the Andalusian party tonight so I thought it would be appropriate to make a new post about the flamenca dress.
If you remember, I already made the dress body and the lining. Which leaves me the sleeves and the skirt: these are the parts that are more time-consuming.
Today I’ll start with the sleeve and tomorrow the skirt part will follow.
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For the sleeves, I decided to line the flounces with self-fabric as the outside is going to show quite a bit.
1-Take the sleeve flounces and place them right sides together.
flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-pattern-1flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-pattern-112-Remember to press flat (if the curve isn’t round, notch more closely but be careful not to cut into your row of stitches).
3-Add as many flounces as you want (I have two, one blue, one white).
4-Sew the flounces together at inner curve.

flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-patter-105-Take your sleeve piece.

flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-pattern-9

 6-Pin the flounces to the sleeve right sides together (for example: blue against blue). Remember to clip the curve of the flounces so it’s easier to pin.
flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-pattern-8flamenca-dress-part-3-sewing-pattern-77-Stitch the flounces separately, press the seam allowances open, finish the edges as you prefer (zigzag, serger, bias binding…).
  

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There you go for the moment! I hope it was useful and I will post the skirt explanation tomorrow and the final pictures during the following days.
Now excuse me, I have to finish my make up for the party… Bye!
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Hello everyone,
I hope you all had a nice week-end. Mine was spent cutting large circles of polka dots fabric, it could have been worse. I don’t have any pictures of the cutting process, because it’s just cutting, nothing special about it.
You saw my cutting plan, just make sure everything fits on your fabric before you start cutting. I like to trace all my pieces first and then cut them all at once.
I also followed Bea‘s and Azahara‘s advice to line the dress. At first, I thought I wouldn’t need to as I am planning on wearing it over a slip (that’s something I always do with tight dresses). But as they both had experience in flamenca dresses and told me it would be more comfortable, I went through my fabric and found some white cotton. I cut only the front and back bodice parts, I won’t bother with lining the sleeves. Thank you for the advice girls!

 

tutorial flamenca dress pattern

 

tutorial flamenca dress pattern
Here is the dress bodice, with the lining attached, on my dressform. This is just to give you (and me) an idea as this dressform, even if adjustable, does not fit my clothes. The minimum size is too big (bust) and too long for me, that’s why there are some pulling lines on the dress. But this dressform is a great coat-hanger…
tutorial flamenca dress pattern

tutorial flamenca dress pattern

The next step is sewing the sleeves with ruffles. And hopefully I will have time to start on the skirt as well.
Have a nice week!
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Hello everyone!
I hope you are ready for some flamenco today as this will be the first part of a long challenge for me. Do I need to remind you that I decided to make myself a flamenco dress? If you need a little trip on memory lane, you can find my inspiration in the last post.
This project will be done during my week-ends so here is what I did on Saturday: pattern making!
flamenca dress pattern tutorial
my pattern pieces (not exactly on scale).

 

 About the pattern pieces:
(First, I would suggest you to use a fitted dress pattern with princess seams and possibly with sleeves that fits you perfectly. If you feel really confident in your pattern making skills, then why not draw the whole dress, but that’s a lot more difficult. Personally, I am using Butterick 6582, a fitted dress pattern with darts that I tested before and that fits great. See the modifications in the following list).
1- back dress (cut 2). Modifications from the original pattern: I lowered the neckline and redrew the armhole to allow space for the sleeve to be sewn in.
2- front dress (cut 1 on fold). Modifications from the original pattern: I raised the neckline and eliminate the gathers on the shoulder. This means the front also had to be reshaped slightly in order to avoid the neckline to gap from excess of fabric. The armhole was redrawn as well.
3- sleeve (cut 2). I used a Burda sleeve as a model and cut it above the elbow. It is a very basic sleeve pattern I often use. Be careful, it has to be quite fitted!
4- top sleeve ruffle (cut 2). Now the fun part: please take your calculator out and be ready to scratch your head.
I measured the width of the sleeve (mine: 31 cm) and divided by 3.14 to know the diameter of the inside circle of the ruffle (9.87 cm). Then you decide what length you want your ruffle to be, measure the distance from the circle you just made and draw the outside circle (mine’s 12 cm long).
5- bottom sleeve ruffle (cut 2). The inside diameter is the same as the top ruffle, but the length is increased (mine is 17 cm).  Does that make sense? Let me show you some diagram I made:

 

flamenca dress pattern tutorial
6- skirt (cut 1 on fold). The skirt pattern is a half-circle, so you only need to draw 1/4 and place it on fold. I measured the dress bottom (where you will join the dress and the skirt parts) and obtained 49 cm (front + back – seam allowances). I need to multiply that amount by 4 to obtain the circumference of the inner circle to draw: 49 x 4 = 196 cm.
And then to find the radius: (196 / 3.14) / 2 = 31.21 cm.
Then you can decide the length of the skirt (for example, 45 cm) and then where you are going to sew your ruffles. Here is the diagram:

 

flamenca dress pattern tutorial

 

7- ruffles (cut 8). I want my ruffles to be 25 cm long. In order to know how many circles you would need, I measured the length of the ruffle lines on the skirt and multiplied it by 2, which gave me:
  • 1rst ruffle: 49 x 2 = 98 cm
  • 2nd ruffle: 80 x 2 = 160 cm
  • 3rd ruffle: 108 x 2 = 216 cm
Then, I chose a 20 cm diameter for the inner circle of the ruffle, which gave me a 63 cm circumference. If you are going to make the ruffles in only one fabric, add the three measurements you had and divide it by 63 to know how many ruffle you are going to need:
(98 + 160 + 216) / 63 = 7.52 ——- 8 ruffles.
If, like me, you are planning on using contrasting fabric, then prepare yourself for more mathematics.
  • 1rst ruffle is blue: 98 / 63 = 1.55 ——- 2 ruffles.
  • 2nd and 3rd ruffles are white: (160 + 216) / 63 = 5.96 ——- 6 ruffles.
flamenca dress pattern tutorial

 

And finally, let me show you the pattern placement I used. Remember that I am using contrasting fabric so I need a little bit more fabric. I have 3 x 1,5 meters of blue with white polka dots fabric and the exact same amount of white with blue polka dots fabric. Fold your fabric in two right sides together, matching the selvedges. Here is how I placed my pattern pieces:

 

flamenca dress pattern tutorial
white fabric / tela blanca
flamenca dress pattern tutorial
blue fabric / tela azul

 

 

Next week end, I will be cutting all my pieces and hopefully start on the bodice. I hope that was useful and that it made sense. If you have an question, feel free to ask. Have a nice week.
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As promised, I have some posts to share during the week. I accumulated sewing before the holidays as I knew I was not going to make a lot of things at the beginning of the new year.
new-year-dress-sewing-pattern-1
 
Here is the dress I made for New Year’s Eve. I wanted something dressed up that could also pass as a costume. My friends and I always have a costume party for New Year’s Eve and this year I was Bree Van de Kamp. With our red apples, we looked like a poster for Desperate Housewives.
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The pattern is my own design: a corset bodice with princess seams and a gathered skirt. I added some boning to the bodice so it would stand up on its own and would allow me to wear the dress without a bra. There is a zipper in the center back.
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I had some black tulle with grey plumetis in my stash and black piqué left from my Burda black dress to underline it. The bodice has a third layer of thick muslim where the boning is sewn and then is lined for more comfort.
I added a velvet edge for a more festive look.
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It was a perfect dress to party and dance, what else could I have asked for?
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