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bound buttonholes

New pattern: the Quart coat!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-1There’s nothing I like more to sew and wear than coats! And more than once I’ve cursed my sunny (and too warm) city because winter is too mild to wear heavy outerwear.
But it was time for me to take my pencils, my ruler and my fabrics to offer you the pattern of a nice coat full of possibilities: the Quart coat!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-2new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-3With its high collar, pockets and long zipped sleeves, the Quart coat will protect you from the cold with style. The princess seams will highlight your figure nicely and the pleated side is the perfect girly detail.
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Quart coat pattern made in navy blue raw silk.
I was inspired by Burberry’s military style: elegant and classic outerwear that will match easily with whatever you’re wearing and that you’ll love wearing year after year.
Besides, the Quart coat can be made in wool coating for winter as well as lighter fabrics (gabardine, twill…) for a trenchcoat version perfect for mid-season.
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-5new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-6The Quart pattern, with its advanced level, has these small details that will make the intermediate seamstress progress and will please the expert ones (think handstitched interfacing, bound buttonholes, zipped cuffs, epaulettes…).

The glossary on the last page comes back on the terms and techniques essentials to make this pattern. And because it’s starting to be an habit now, I’m already preparing a photo tutorial to follow in depth the Quart coat construction.

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Head to the shop and get the Quart coat pattern!
I can’t wait to see what you’ll come up with, your thoughts on the pattern and to show you the testers versions.
Have a great week!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-8ps: I’d like to remind you that you can take advantage of your order of the printed pattern to receive the new folders for free! If you have pauline alice printed patterns still in their (thin) envelopes, add their names in the comment box when confirming your order and they’ll be sent without any additional cost.

 

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Tutorial: Buttonholes openings on Facing
Remember how we created the bound buttonholes for our Ninot jacket, no? Now we need to make the openings on the facing so that you can pass your buttons through the buttonholes.
INTERFACING
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1.Interface the front facing and report the buttonholes markings on the wrong side from the front pattern piece, drawing a box the same dimension than for the bound buttonholes.
BOX
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2.This step, you’ve done it before for the bound buttonhole. With a short stitch length, stitch around the buttonhole box and then cut it open, cutting in V in the corners as close as possible to the stitching line.

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3.Open the rectangle and press it flat. You can stitch it down so all the small trianles stay in place.

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4.To finish the buttonholes, once the facing is stitched to the main jacket at the end of the construction, you will handstitch the opening to the corresponding bound buttonholes.

That’s it for the bound buttonholes! I hope it was useful and that you’re going to try it to your next jacket/coat project if you haven’t already… On Wednesday, we’ll see the welt pockets, you’ll see that it’s quite similar to the buttonholes.
 
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Bound-Buttonholes Tutorial!
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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I hope you had an amazing New Year Eve and Day! I couldn’t find a better way to start 2014 than with a sewing tutorial: the perfect way to put into practice all those sewing resolutions I’m sure you took…
I am not planning to make a full-on Sew-along for the Ninot Jacket but rather a series of tutorials about the most difficult steps such as the bound buttonholes, the welt pockets, the collar… The construction of the rest of the jacket is easy but if you feel like you would like to see one step in details, let me know. So let’s start today with the bound buttonholes!
PATCH TECHNIQUE
The patch technique is basically a patch of fabric folded to form the little “lips” of the bound buttonhole. You might want to practice on a piece of fabric before starting on your real jacket 🙂
INTERFACING
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-31.Depending of the version you are making, you will want to interface the wrong side of the whole front piece of the pattern (Version A, lined) or only cut small rectangles of interfacing and apply them over the buttonhole markings on the wrong side of the front piece (version B, unlined).
DRAW THE BOX
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-52.On the pattern, you will notice that you just have a line, not a box, to mark the buttonhole place. This is because the box dimension is going to depend of your button. Here is how to measure the box you will need to draw:
Take your button length and add 1 cm (3/8″) to it to obtain the box length. The box width is 1 cm as well (3/8″) which you divide by a centered line. For example, you have a 4 cm button, your box is going to be 5 cm x 1 cm (2″ x 3/8″) with a centered horizontal line at 0.5 cm (3/16″).
Report the box on the interfacing and baste around it.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-73.Cut a patch of fabric about 10 cm x 10 cm (3.9″ x 3.9″) on the fabric bias. We will trim the edges at the end so don’t worry too much about the size.
With right sides together, pin the patch over the basted box.

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4.Select a short stitch length on your machine.
From the wrong side, stitch around the box starting from a long side. You might want to count the stitches you make on the short sides to be sure they are the same length.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-105.Now you have to be very careful with this step! Cut through both layers (the front and the patch) from the center and cut in V into the angles of the box. You have to cut the closest possible to the stitches without cutting them (if you have small embroidery scissors, it’s a perfect time to use them).
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-11bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-126.Pass the patch through the open box. Lay it flat and press lightly. If the corners don’t lay flat, it’s because you haven’t cut close enough to the stitches during the previous step (fold it back carefully and cut a little bit closer).
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7.Fold the top of the patch in two so that it forms the first “lip” of the buttonhole. The fold should reach the center of the box. Pin in place.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-16bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-178.Fold the bottom of the patch in two to form the second “lip”. Both lips meet in the middle. Pin in place. You can press lightly so it keeps its shape, but be careful that the edges don’t show.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-199.Here is how it looks from the right side!
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-20bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-21bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2210.You might notice that there are small triangles at the ends of the box. Like on the second picture, stitch the small triangle to the patch, securing the folds. Use a short stitch length and stitch the closest possible to the fold of the triangle.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2311.Remove the basting threads and make the other buttonholes!
On Monday, we’ll see how to stitch the buttonholes openings on the facing to make a beautiful finish on the inside as well.
Have a great week end and ¡Felices Reyes! (Wise Men Day, January 6th: in Spain, they bring the presents to the children).
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Ninot Jacket Pattern
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It’s a jacket! You were a few to have guessed in the right direction, the buttonholes might have helped.

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The Ninot Jacket is a short swing jacket, with a deep inverted pleat in the back. This style was very fashionable during the 40’s and 50’s (and you know how much I love these years…). As much as I love a fitted jacket, I think the small volume given by the back pleat makes it ideal for an everyday jacket, with enough structure to look sophisticated for the evening in the right fabric (think tweed with some lurex or brocade, amazing no?).
And for the “Couture” touch, bound buttonholes and welt pockets.

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There are 2 versions of the jacket:

Version A is fully lined and has a Peter Pan collar. It’s perfect for making in wool crepe (like the burgundy one above), wool, flannel, tweed, brocade… Winter time fabrics! And why not add a little faux-fur to the collar and cuffs like the green version above? It feels so luxurious…
Version B is unlined (seam allowances are finished with bias binding for a clean and fun finish). It’s collarless and has button back and sleeve tabs. It would be a cute jacket for spring made in gabardine, linen or cotton twill for example (with contrasting bias binding).
There are minimum tailoring techniques (the bound buttonholes can be replaced by machine-made buttonholes), the sewing level required is intermediate (a tutorial serie is already planned).
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I hope you like the Ninot Jacket. Feel like making it? Buy the pattern here!
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