HAPPY NEW YEAR!
I hope you had an amazing New Year Eve and Day! I couldn’t find a better way to start 2014 than with a sewing tutorial: the perfect way to put into practice all those sewing resolutions I’m sure you took…
I am not planning to make a full-on Sew-along for the Ninot Jacket but rather a series of tutorials about the most difficult steps such as the bound buttonholes, the welt pockets, the collar… The construction of the rest of the jacket is easy but if you feel like you would like to see one step in details, let me know. So let’s start today with the bound buttonholes!
The patch technique is basically a patch of fabric folded to form the little “lips” of the bound buttonhole. You might want to practice on a piece of fabric before starting on your real jacket 🙂
1.Depending of the version you are making, you will want to interface the wrong side of the whole front piece of the pattern (Version A, lined) or only cut small rectangles of interfacing and apply them over the buttonhole markings on the wrong side of the front piece (version B, unlined).
DRAW THE BOX
2.On the pattern, you will notice that you just have a line, not a box, to mark the buttonhole place. This is because the box dimension is going to depend of your button. Here is how to measure the box you will need to draw:
Take your button length and add 1 cm (3/8″) to it to obtain the box length. The box width is 1 cm as well (3/8″) which you divide by a centered line. For example, you have a 4 cm button, your box is going to be 5 cm x 1 cm (2″ x 3/8″) with a centered horizontal line at 0.5 cm (3/16″).
Report the box on the interfacing and baste around it.
3.Cut a patch of fabric about 10 cm x 10 cm (3.9″ x 3.9″) on the fabric bias. We will trim the edges at the end so don’t worry too much about the size.
With right sides together, pin the patch over the basted box.
4.Select a short stitch length on your machine.
From the wrong side, stitch around the box starting from a long side. You might want to count the stitches you make on the short sides to be sure they are the same length.
5.Now you have to be very careful with this step! Cut through both layers (the front and the patch) from the center and cut in V into the angles of the box. You have to cut the closest possible to the stitches without cutting them (if you have small embroidery scissors, it’s a perfect time to use them).
6.Pass the patch through the open box. Lay it flat and press lightly. If the corners don’t lay flat, it’s because you haven’t cut close enough to the stitches during the previous step (fold it back carefully and cut a little bit closer).
7.Fold the top of the patch in two so that it forms the first “lip” of the buttonhole. The fold should reach the center of the box. Pin in place.
8.Fold the bottom of the patch in two to form the second “lip”. Both lips meet in the middle. Pin in place. You can press lightly so it keeps its shape, but be careful that the edges don’t show.
9.Here is how it looks from the right side!
10.You might notice that there are small triangles at the ends of the box. Like on the second picture, stitch the small triangle to the patch, securing the folds. Use a short stitch length and stitch the closest possible to the fold of the triangle.
11.Remove the basting threads and make the other buttonholes!
On Monday, we’ll see how to stitch the buttonholes openings on the facing to make a beautiful finish on the inside as well.
Have a great week end and ¡Felices Reyes! (Wise Men Day, January 6th: in Spain, they bring the presents to the children).