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How to sew bias binding on the Xerea neckline
I didn’t think I would have to make a tutorial for the Xerea dress but yesterday i received 2 emails from seamstresses who had trouble with the back yoke of the pattern. They told me it was too short for the back piece and didn’t match at the shoulders.
After checking the pattern, I understood where the confusion came from: the pattern pieces are correct but it would be easy to get that difference in length if you didn’t sew the bias binding just as instructed.
So let’s see how you should attach the bias binding on the Xerea dress neckline.

 

bias1Here is the illustration for this step in the instructions booklet. The instructions tell you to “finish the neckline with bias binding: with right sides together, pin the bias binding to the neckline matching the edges. Stitch on the first fold line. Fold the bias binding to the inside twice and edgestitch.”In pictures, this would look like that:

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-1Here is your bias binding: double fold and a pretty normal width, here approx. 2,5 cm (1″) when completely open.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-2First, pin the bias binding on the neckline, with right sides together (oups, my fabric is upside down, make sure yours is with right sides together!). The bias binding raw edge should match the fabric raw edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-3Then stitch inside the first fold line crease. This should be between 0,3 and 0,5 cm (1/8″ and 3/16″) from the edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-4How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-5How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-6Fold the bias over the seam allowances along the center fold and then fold it again to the inside. Press. Edgestitch.
The bias binding is stitched on the inside of the neckline and is now invisible. This will give you a very narrow seam allowance around the neckline and the back yoke seams are matching correctly in the back.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-7How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-8You can also fold the bias binding only once to the inside. This will give you more structure to the hem, but I would recommend this only for the sleeve and dress hem, not the neckline.
Another possibility would be to make the bias binding a decorative part of the dress and make it visible on the neckline.

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-9How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-10How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-11How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-12Pin the bias binding to the neckline, matching the raw edges. I like to pin it to the wrong side but this is a personal preference, you can also pin it right sides together. Stitch inside the first fold line crease. Fold the bias binding over the seam allowances to cover them and edgestitch (make sure your binding covers the first line of stitching you did). This would look nice with a constrating color binding.Please let me know if you have any questions.

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Alameda Sew-Along: finishing
Here it is, the last viedo of the #AlamedaSewAlong!
In this video, you’ll see how to insert the invisible zipper, attach the lining with a fellstitch and stitch the hem with bias binding.

Watch directly on Youtube.
I hope you enjoyed the videos and the Sew-Along. Let me know if you have any questions and send me pictures of your Alameda dresses when you have finish!!!
Have a great week-end…
And see you next week with some big news (new pattern release!)…

 

 

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Hem the Carme blouse – Carme Sew-Along

I’ve seen lots of your Carme blouses popping on the internet this last week and it’s so amazing: they are all so pretty and different! Don’t hesitate to send me pictures or blog post address in the comments or directly to my email, I love to receive them…

We’re almost done with the Carme blouse! Today we’ll hem it. We’ll use a narrow hem (0,5 cm or 3/16″) but you don’t need a special foot. Let’s see how to do it:

On Wednesday, we’ll see the last part of this Sew-Along, the buttons and buttonholes placement. Have a great week!

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Finish the dress! and a prize to win (at the end)…
Hello,
I am one day late for this post, sorry… I am working on the new pattern and got carried away.
But we still have to finish our Camí dress so let’s get to it.
You’ll need to hem your skirt.
Press and you’re ready to go!
HEMMING THE SKIRT

cami-sew-along-pattern-1

1.Because my fabric is busy and medium-weight, I’ll machine stitch the hem. You might prefer to use a blind hem stitch or hand-stitch the hem if you don’t want your hem to show.
First, baste a row of stitches 2 cm (6/8″) from the bottom edge.
cami-sew-along-pattern-2
2.Press the fabric with the basting line going inside.
cami-sew-along-pattern-3
3.Using the first fold as a guide, fold over again and press. Stitch at 2 cm (6/8″) from the border (if you have an edgestitching foot, now is the moment to use it to get a really straight sticthing line!). If you want to go back to previous step, all the Sew-Along post are here.
THE END!
I’ll show you my finished dress tomorrow.
Now it’s also time for you to take pictures of your Camí dress so we can all see your beautiful creations!
So get to your sewing machine and send me a picture with a link to your blog post (if you have one) by email (paulineyalice @ gmail . com) or post it on the flickr page.
And to get it even more exiting, I’ll be drawing one of you for a special prize. Submit your Camí dress and you’ll have a chance to win the new pauline alice pattern (coming out in November). You have until Thursday 24th of October to send your picture.
Have a great week!
 pauline-sewing-pattern
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