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patch pocket


After a post last week, here I am again, back from my hibernation with 2 new patterns: The Xerea Dress and the Sorell Trousers.Let’s talk about the latter today:

The Sorell trousers are high waist pants with a lot of details inspired by men’s trousers (even the zipper side!). And you’ll recognize the style of the Hollywood actresses I admire: Katherine Hepburn’s casual confidence, Marlene Dietrich’s androgyny, Vivien Leigh’s modernity…
If you’re a fan of pockets, you’ll be more than happy with its 4 kinds of pockets: slash pockets, watch pockets and then View A has back welt pocket whereas View B has patch pockets. Of course you can choose to make only the front slash pockets to make it easier or if you plan to use a printed fabric.
Talking about fabrics: Sorell is perfect with a woolen fabric for winter, linen for summer or denim for a retro look. And if your fabric has a little bit of stretch, no problem (but I wouldn’t recommend anything with more than 3 %).
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-7For a vintage look, the trousers legs are wide but the waist and hips are fitted so if you are between 2 sizes or you’re afraid to be unable to sit after lunch, choose the bigger. Anyway, the best solution it still to make a muslin (even a simplified one with the main pieces).
I’ll be coming back with a step-by-step photo tutorial very soon, so even if it’s your first pair of trousers, don’t be afraid to try it!
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-8Just a word on the fabrics i used: View A is made in denim from The Sweet Mercerie and View B in a linen/silk mix from Julián López.


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I’m not going to make a full Sew-Along for the Turia dungarees pattern but rather a series of small tutorials on the most important features of the pattern construction. The pattern construction in itself is quite simple, apart from the pockets and the straps, there are only 3 main pieces: the bodice, the font and the back. The most complicated step is certainly how to make a flat-fell seam, as it may well be a new technique for you. Don’t worry, it’s easy and we’ll cover it on Friday!
But let’s start today with the patch pockets! Because dungarees are a casual and most importantly, a practical garment (yes, yes, even for going to the ladies room, it just takes practice!), pockets are an essential element.
I’m going to show you how to sew easily the front and back patch pockets:


turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1To help you fold the seam allowances in, staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″). You don’t need to staystitch the top edge of the front pocket.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Clip the seam allowance of pocket opening: that’s the curved edge. Be careful not to cut the stitches!
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Fold the seam allowance to the inside and press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Stitch two rows of topstitching along the curved edge. Here is how I like to sew my topstitching so that the distance between the rows is always the same:
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6I like to stitch the first row about 3 mm (1/8″) from the edge. Then I like to place the edge of the needle plate against the first stitching line and follow it (that’s roughly 8 mm or 5/16″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Place the pocket on the dungarees front piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. The top edges of the pocket and the front piece should match. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the curved and top edges open.


turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-9Staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-10turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-11Turn the top edge along the staystitch, press. Fold again and stitch two rows of topstitching.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-12Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances. Press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-13Place the pocket on the dungarees back piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open.
On Friday, we’ll see how to make the flat-fell seam and next week, I’ll explain how to change the pattern into a pinafore dress very easily as quite a lot were interested in this variation. Have a great week!


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Here it is, the new pattern! I’m so happy to present the Turia dungarees!
new-pattern-turia-dunagrees-sewing-2Dungarees (or overalls as you wish!) for a grownup? Really? Well YES of course!
The Turia dungarees pattern feature front and back patch pockets, sides zippers and adjustables straps. It also comes in two length: the slightly tapered and cropped ankle length will accompany you from summer to winter made in gabardine or corduroy and layered, and the more payful short version is ideal for the warmer months (or why not wear it with tights?).


The Turia dungarees are quite easy to make, you’ll even learn how to make beautiful and sturdy flat-fell seams. Easy to fit as well with the adjustable straps and straight leg slightly tapered at the ankle, it’s comfortable and yet stylish. Just pair them with sandals during the day or some heels for a night out.
They can be made in a great variety of fabrics: from light to medium weight wovens such as cotton, linen, gabardine, chambray and denim, corduroy, twill…


I hope you’ll love this pattern as much as I do. It’s inspired by dungarees my mom gave me years ago, she wore them in her 20’s and I’m still wearing them… What can I say? I’m a sentimental!



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