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Xerea dress pattern

I’ve been meaning to write a tutorial on how to sew the pockets of the Xerea dress for quite some time now. I know that some of you also requested it as these pockets are not set the usual way and they can be tricky.
So here we go, a step-by-step photo tutorial on the Xerea pockets:xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1Here are the pieces involded in the pocket construction:
– 1 Front (it can either from view A or view B. If you’re making view A, remember to stitch the dart before).
– 3 Side Front
– 7 Pocket
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-21. With right sides together, pin the pocket (7) to the front (1), matching the marks.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-32. Stitch along the pocket curve. Notch the seam allowances. Clip the seam allowances at the top mark.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-43. Press the pocket seam flat (you can understitch the seam allowance if you want). Open the pocket like on the picture.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-64. We are going to stitch the side front (3) to the front/pocket piece. With right sides together, pin the side front (3) to the front/pocket. Start pinning from the top, side front to front and when you reach the pocket, continue to pin to the pocket curve as if it was one unique piece, matching the marks. Stitch.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-85. Place the pocket inside and press the pocket opening flat and the seam allowances toward the front. Trim and finish them.I hope this will help you. It’s a difficult step to photograph but if you make a pratice pocket before sewing your Xerea, I’m sure it will be easier to understand.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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I didn’t think I would have to make a tutorial for the Xerea dress but yesterday i received 2 emails from seamstresses who had trouble with the back yoke of the pattern. They told me it was too short for the back piece and didn’t match at the shoulders.
After checking the pattern, I understood where the confusion came from: the pattern pieces are correct but it would be easy to get that difference in length if you didn’t sew the bias binding just as instructed.
So let’s see how you should attach the bias binding on the Xerea dress neckline.


bias1Here is the illustration for this step in the instructions booklet. The instructions tell you to “finish the neckline with bias binding: with right sides together, pin the bias binding to the neckline matching the edges. Stitch on the first fold line. Fold the bias binding to the inside twice and edgestitch.”In pictures, this would look like that:

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-1Here is your bias binding: double fold and a pretty normal width, here approx. 2,5 cm (1″) when completely open.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-2First, pin the bias binding on the neckline, with right sides together (oups, my fabric is upside down, make sure yours is with right sides together!). The bias binding raw edge should match the fabric raw edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-3Then stitch inside the first fold line crease. This should be between 0,3 and 0,5 cm (1/8″ and 3/16″) from the edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-4How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-5How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-6Fold the bias over the seam allowances along the center fold and then fold it again to the inside. Press. Edgestitch.
The bias binding is stitched on the inside of the neckline and is now invisible. This will give you a very narrow seam allowance around the neckline and the back yoke seams are matching correctly in the back.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-7How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-8You can also fold the bias binding only once to the inside. This will give you more structure to the hem, but I would recommend this only for the sleeve and dress hem, not the neckline.
Another possibility would be to make the bias binding a decorative part of the dress and make it visible on the neckline.

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-9How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-10How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-11How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-12Pin the bias binding to the neckline, matching the raw edges. I like to pin it to the wrong side but this is a personal preference, you can also pin it right sides together. Stitch inside the first fold line crease. Fold the bias binding over the seam allowances to cover them and edgestitch (make sure your binding covers the first line of stitching you did). This would look nice with a constrating color binding.Please let me know if you have any questions.




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xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-1Today let’s talk about the perfect summer dress:  the Xerea Dress. Inspired by the 60’s mini dresses, Xerea is easy to sew and easy to wear!
The pattern is available in two versions: View A is a shift dress with short sleeves and View B a sleeveless tent dress with center box pleat. Both views include pockets at the princess seams.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-2Xereaxerea-dress-pattern-sewing-3 is perfect for beginners and will delight advanced (lazy) seamstresses: no zipper, no buttons. The dress is put on easily thanks to the open back neckline, finished with bias binding.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-4For fabrics, I would recommend fabrics with some drape, in particular if you choose the shift dress.
For the shift version, View A, I used an ikat cotton (Henry et Henriette) with piping inserted in the princess seams – perfect for summer – and for the tent version, View B,  I used a jersey (Tejidos Paredes – make sure it’s stable enough: for example ponte knit fabric) for a 60’s style.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-5xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-6The yoke design allow you to use contrasting fabric very easily: how about color blocking or lace accents? All the hems are finished with bias binding, make your own with matching fabric for an invisible finish or add some subtle contrast to your dress.
This pattern can also transition easily into the colder months: lengthen the sleeves or make view B in woolen fabric to wear as a pinafore over a shirt or pullover.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-7I hope you’ll like the new patterns, the Xerea dress and the Sorell trousers!


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Here we are! With the new patterns! It took time, but I have two new patterns to show you so it was worth the wait ;)Let me introduce:


New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-1The Sorell Trousers, inspired by menswear and with wide legs and high waist. Sewing techniques lovers will love it: 4 different kinds of pocket, a front zipper fly…
New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-2The Xerea Dress pattern, inspired by the 60s, it’s the perfect summer dress. It has pockets, front and back yokes. It’s perfect for beginners because there are no button or zipper.
The Xerea dress is available in two versions: View A is a classic shift dress with short sleeves and View B is a sleeveless tent dress.
I’ll come back this afternoon to show you the Sorell trousers in details and the Xerea dress tomorrow.
As per usual, the patterns are available in the shop in PDF and printed versions. Come check them out!
New-patterns-Sorell-Trousers-Xerea-Dress-SEWING-3I also wanted to tell you we are opening today the collective blog « Pauline Alice and you…» which was requested by some of you. You can now register and post pictures of your garments made with Pauline Alice patterns. And … there’s a surprise 😉




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