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pattern Port Trousers

I’m very happy to welcome the lovely girls behind Artesane today on the blog for a special post. In case you don’t know Artesane, it’s an online community platform with video classes and tutorials on sewing, knitting, crocheting, bag making, embrodery, pattern making… and many more to come. I am very greatfull to Artesane to have given me the opportunity to teach a sewing class for them on how to make a tailored jacket and I hope to repeat this amazing experience with them. Classes are only available in French for the moment but be sure to check their inspirational site just the same.

Thanks to Artesane for sharing here a great tutorial on how to alter a trousers pattern. That will be very useful for the Port trousers pattern! Let’s start!

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TROUSERS ALTERATIONS

If there’s one type of pattern that’s difficult to standarize, it has got to be trousers. Everybody has got different body types and it’s quite rare not to have to alter a trousers pattern. That’s why we often have a favorite store-bought trousers brand or model ! It’s not easy to find a ready-to-wear model that fits perfectly at first try.

The best thing would be to make a muslin for every model that you like and think could be a go-to pattern.

Once this pattern is altered and fitted, you’ll have a tailored trousers pattern and will be able to use it again and again !

1/ Before starting

Material needed :

  • Your trousers pattern (front leg and back leg)
  • Pattern paper or Kraft paper (cardboard)
  • Pens in different colours
  • tape
  • scissors

How is made a pair of trousers ?

Trousers are made of two legs, a waistband and a type of closure (a fly for example).

Each leg is made of a front piece and a back piece. The back pieces is usually bigger than the front one. The back crotch is longer and curvier (that’s where our bum goes !).

Before starting any alteration, you need to add five reference lines on your pattern :

  •  waist line
  •  hip line (measure at the largest point)
  •  inseam line (it corresponds to the end of the seat)
  •  knee line
  •  hem line

ENSchemas1

Once you’ve added these lines to your pattern, it’s time to alter the trousers leg (there’ll be a second post on how to alter the crotch as it’s a vast subject).

So apart from the crotch adjustment, once you’ve made your muslim, you can see various type of issues :

– your trousers are too long o too short ; you have thus to lengthen or shorten the trousers leg ;

– your trousers are too wide or too small around the waist ; you have to adjust the waist ;

– your trousers are too wide at the hips or on the contrary, they’re too tight and uncomfortable ; you need to alter the trousers at the hips ;

2/ Lengthen or shorten the trousers legs

The technics used to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece are the same for any kind of garments. But still, let’s have a little reminder.

HOW TO SHORTEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas3

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove. Above the shorten/lengthen line on the pattern, trace a parallel line at X cm.

2/ Folding the pattern piece, overlap the two lines.

3/ Tape the fold close.

HOW TO LENGTHEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas4

1/ Cut the pattern piece along the shorten/lengthen line.

2/ Place a new piece of paper below the two pattern pieces. Determinate how many cm you need to add and spread the two pieces apart X cm (make sure the lines stay parallel).

3/ Tape the two pieces to the paper and join the two pieces together.

WHERE TO PLACE THE SHORTEN/LENGTHEN LINES ON A TROUSERS LEG
pattern Port Trousers 4

Now that we’ve seen the techniques, the important thing is to know where to apply them. Indeed, if you were to lengthen a trousers leg at the wrong place, there’s a good chance the general shape will get distorted.

1/ If the shortening/lengthening is small (up to 3 cm), the line has to be placed just above the knee (line 1).

2/ If the alteration is more important, it needs to be made in two places. Divide the length you have to add or remove from the leg in two. Then draw two adjustment lines above and below the knee (line 1 & 2).

If the alteration is minimal, you can do it at the hem line.

3/ Widen or tighten at waist

The secret of a great waist adjustment resides in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the shape of the trousers. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 8 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ Extend the waist line on both sides of the pattern piece. Add X cm to both sides (see diagram below).

5/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ At the waist line, remove X cm on both sides of the pattern piece (see diagram below).

4/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

4/ Widen or tighten at hips

Again, the secret of a great hip adjustment is in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the general shape of the garment. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 4 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 6

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll extend the hip line a few cm. Add X cm (see diagram above).

5/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 7

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll remove X cm to the hip line (see diagram above).

4/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

With these techniques, you’ll be able to adjust the legs of your favourite trousers pattern (length, waist or hips) ! We’ll see how to adjust the inseam and the crotch as well as how to alter the seat very soon.

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THANKS ARTESANE!

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Testers PortTrousers2
First of all, I want to thank you all for the warm welcome you gave to the Port trousers & shorts pattern! I hope to see lots of them stitched up very soon 😉
And because it’s always easier to get inspiration for a project when you’ve seen a few versions made in different fabrics and worn by different people, let’s review some of the testers’ Port trousers.
As you can see, denim has been a favourite amongs the testers. You can play with contrasting topstitching to give your Port trousers a jeans style or keep it casual. Just remember than denim has a tendency to stretch when worn (going down a size might be a good idea. My shorts version is perfect on the first day but a little too big on the following one for example).
TestersPortTrousers1
If you want a more dressed-up version, you can use gabardine, cotton twill or chambray like these testers. I think the Port trousers are really easy to wear (and sew by the way!) and it’s the kind of garments you can wear from day to night depending on how you accesorize.
TestersPortTrousers2
Un chas un chasLise TailorSur un fil – my striped version
I hope all these beautiful Port trousers will give you some inspiration. If you want more, check out the Port trousers & shorts board on Pinterest.
Which version do you like best? And what about fabric choice? Let me know how your Port trousers are going to look like…
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Today I’m writing a special post: how to adapt your Pauline Alice patterns when you’re expecting!

You may have noticed (or not) that I’m expecting a baby for Fall (thanks to everyone who congratulated me!). My closet is quite limited right now as most of my clothes are fitted and high waisted, so I need new outfits more adapted to my growing belly. I thought it would be nice to show you how to adapt non-maternity patterns quite easily with pretty illustrations and diagrams:

 

CAMI DRESS

This is a very easy modification: you just have to shorten the front and back bodice pieces of the Cami dress pattern.

I would then remove the back darts and replace the front ones by gathers. To make the dress easier to put on, I would remove the side zipper and cut the front skirt piece in half and continue the bodice buttonband on the skirt. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

CARME BLOUSE & PORT SHORT

In the Carme blouse Sew-along (see it here on youtube), I had already shown how to make a maternity version.

You just need to add fabric on the bodice centre front that will later be gathered and stitched to the front yoke as the original version.

 

The Port short is a model that will ask for a more complex modification.

You’ll need to add a jersey waistband to the short. You need to redraw the front pieces (front and pockets). Draw a curve from the side to the center front (the seat is shortened by about 15 cm – this measure will vary depending on your belly, make sure to make a toile before). You won’t need the zipper fly pieces as the shorts will be pulled on, fly will only be decorative. Place the pockets (view A or B) over the new front piece and draw the curve on the pockets as well.

For the jersey waistband, we’ll cut two front and two back waistbands (size is to be adapted to your belly). The bottom edge should measure the same as the short’s new waistline with the cruve. Stitch the front and back waistbands at the sides and then both waistbands together at the top edge. Turn with the right sides out and stitch a line about 2 cm below the top edge to created a channel and insert an elastic. Stitch the waistband to the short. You can now pull the short on and the jersey waistband will be very confortable all the way through pregnancy.

 

MALVAROSA DRESS

No need to change anything on the Malvarosa dress as it’s loose shape makes it perfect for maternity.

 

ELIANA DRESS

That’s the first dress I thought of hacking : if you move the elastic waistband up, you’ll have the perfect maternity dress, from the first to the third trimester.

You need to shorten the Eliana dress bodice front and back pieces, without removing the 3 cm seam allowances at the waist. For the skirt, no need to change the waist but you might want to lengthen it a little bit. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

REINA SHIRT / DRESS

No modification needed for the Reina shirt thanks to the loose shape and gathers around the bust. But I want to lengthen it and try to make a dress out of it.

 

XEREA DRESS

By replacing the fold on view B of the Xerea dress by soft gathers, you’ll get a pretty maternity dress that you’ll also be able to wear after baby’s arrival.

 

DENIA BLOUSE & ROSARI SKIRT

The Denia blouse pattern doesn’t need any change. It will be perfect for summer temperatures.

Just as the Port short, the Rosari skirt will need a jersey waistband to be worn as a maternity skirt.

Check out the Port modifications above. You don’t need to make the buttonholes, as the skirt won’t be opened, you can stitch the buttons directly over the buttonbands. Pockets will nedd to be lowered slightly.

 

ALDAIA DRESS

The Aldaia dress is designed for jersey fabrics, perfect when your belly is getting rounder every day.

I would shorten the bodice pieces (all three views are compatibles) under the bust and remove the back darts. For the skirt, I recommand using view B, without seams, and lengthen the skirt at the waist. Make sure you choose a fabric with enough stretch ad why not add some soft gathers on the front around the waist?

 

This is my Pauline Alice maternity wardrobe! I don’t know if I’ll have the time to test all the variations but this is definitely my summer sewing plan. I’m about to start the Cami dress in white cotton, I’ll let you know how that works out.

What about you? What’s your favourite maternity pattern? Which of these do you like the most?

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Today, let’s learn how to sew a fly front zipper on your Port trousers. Sewing the zippers on trousers is often one of the most feared step but it really shouldn’t. With this step-by-step photo tutorial, you’ll see it’s actually quite easy!

 

1. These are the pieces you’ll need to install the zipper:
-Fronts x 2 in main fabric
-Fly facings x 1 in main fabric and interfacing (some patterns have the fly facing included in the front piece, like the Sorell trousers for example, and this tutorial is going to be easier to apply in this case).
-Fly shield x 1 in main fabric and interfacing
-Zipper 15 cm (6″) long (it can be longer as in this tutorial)

 

2. Finish the center front seam of the front pieces with serger or zigzag stitch. Repport your marks on the front pieces.

 

3. With right sides together, pin the front pieces together at the center front seam.
4. Stitch from the inseam to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

5. Interface the fly facing piece.
6. Finish the curved seam.

 

7. Pin the fly facing to the left side front piece (when you wear the trousers) with right sides together.
8. Stitch together from the top edge to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

9. Open the fly facing. Trim and press the seam allowances toward the front.
Place the zipper face down (with the teeth toward the fabric) over the zipper facing, with the zipper ribbon touching the front seam. The zipper end should arrive just above the dot mark.
10. Stitch the left side of the zipper ribbon to the fly facing. Turn the facing in and press lightly.

 

11. Interface the fly shield piece.
12. Fold it in half lengthwise and stitch the bottom edge with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.
13. Turn the fly shield inside out, press and finish the edge with a serger or zigzag stitch.

 

14. Press the right side front piece (when you wear the trousers) 0,5 cm (1/4″) toward the inside.
15. Baste or pin the zipper to the folded edge.
16. Baste or pin the fly shield to the zipper.
17. Stitch very close to the folded edge throught all layers (front, zipper and fly shield) from the top edge to the dot mark.

18. Pin the fly shield out of the way so that it won’t get caught when we sew the fly topstitch.

 

19. Close the zipper (but don’t cut it yet). Place the trousers front correctly and draw the topstitching line (you can use the front pattern piece or the fly facing as guide).
20. Stitch the fly topstitching throught both layers (front and fly facing).

 

21. Unpin the fly shield and place it over the zipper. Pin in place again.
22. Make bar tacks to reinforce the fly: one at the bottom of the topstitching line and one at the curve. This time make sure you stitch through the fly shield as well.

 

23. There you go, an easy way to insert a fly front zipper!
Tip: wait until you attach the waistband to cut the zipper!

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I would like to start this post with an giant THANK YOU!
Thank you to all of you who bought the new patterns, the Sorell trousers and the Xerea dress! I’m so happy (and relieved) that you like them!And Thank you to my testers! I’m so grateful for your help, your advices on the design and instructions… Without you all, I wouldn’t have been able to release these new patterns!And now, let’s talk about the Sorell trousers! Again!
I know sewing trousers can be intimidating: what with the fly, the pockets, the waistband… so many details that can go wrong.
I knew a step-by-step photo tutorial would be the perfect support for this pattern and that many beginners would feel better with extra pictures and instructions.You can download the Sorell trousers Tutorial here (in English).If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comment section below.
Want some ideas for your Sorell trousers? Check out my inspiration board on Pinterest.

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