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Burda 132 07/2012

Hello! How would you like to continue the shirt tutorial?
Another step I found difficult when sewing my first shirt was the sleeve placket and the cuff. I wanted it to look nice and tidy like the ones I had from the store but I couldn’t figure out how to make it. And the pattern from Burda I was using didn’t have easy explanations, hem hem 🙂
So after many hours searching the internet, I figured it out. I hope this step-by-step will help you:

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-11. Here is what your placket pattern piece should look like more or less. It should come with your shirt pattern but if not, you can find printable templates quite easily.



2. Place your placket piece over the sleeve, matching the cutting line marking. Important: both pieces should be with the wrong side facing up toward you!
Stitch the box around the cutting line (follow the red line), pivoting at the angles. It’s better to set your machine on a small stitch length.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-33. Cut the opening line and finish with a V shape very close to the stitching line.


4. Turn the sleeve over and with right side up, flip the placket through the opening. Press open.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-55. Take the small side and fold under along the folding line. Press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-66. Stitch very close to the folding line.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-77. On the other side, fold the end forming a point. Press.

8. Fold along the two folding lines and press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-99. Now we have folded and pressed the fisrt line, we are going to fold the other one and press it.
how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1010. Place the pointed part over the small one. We are now going to stitch the red line, enclosing the raw edges under the placket.
11. Edgestitch the placket following the red line. Go approx. 2 cm down the cuff opening to enclose the raw edge.


12. The result: nice and tidy! You can now baste your sleeve bottom folds (usually 2).


13. Interface your cuff pieces and with right sides together, stitch following the red line. Trim the seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Clip the curve.


14. Turn inside out and press.


15. Now do what I say, not what I do: instead of pinning the cuff layer to the outside of the sleeve, pin it to the inside. This should look almost like the picture but with the cuff inside.
Stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press them toward the cuff.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1616. Fold the seam allowance of the cuff inside, press it and edgestitch all around the cuff. You’re done! The only missing step is sewing the button and buttonhole.
I hope that was useful! Have a nice week end!
I will come back very soon with great news!
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How about a little step by step today?
I thought I would take photos while sewing the classic men shirt I made for my boyfriend in order to explain some tricky steps.
I mean the first shirt I made, I was terrified of sewing a collar, sleeve plackets and cuffs. And at the end they were not so difficult to sew once you knew the important steps.
Here are the important steps to follow when sewing a classic shirt collar:
1 copia1. These are your 4 collar pieces: 2 undercollar (which will be attached to the rest of the shirt) and 2 uppercollar (which fold over the tie for example). You need to interface the 4 pieces.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
2. Take the 2 uppercollar pieces and with right sides together, pin them together like on the picture. Set the stitch length to 2 or 2,5 for more strength. Stitch following the red line, pivoting at the corner. Cut the seam allowance close to the stitch line and cut the angles in bias.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
3. Turn right side out and press flat. Be careful when turning the collar points!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
4. Take your first undercollar piece and matching the center and marks, pin it to one layer of the uppercollar like on the picture. The collar stays open.
5 copia (1)5. Stitch the undercollar to the layer of uppercollar following the red line from mark to mark (they depend of your pattern, but they should be more or less where the red line start).
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
6. It’s not easy to locate the collar to stitch, so just a picture to show you.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
7. Repeat the steps 4 and 5 for the other undercollar piece. Pin it to the other uppercollar layer and stitch.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
8. This is what you have now: the undercollar and the uppercollar are joined together between the marks. The ends of the undercollar pieces are free.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
9. From the mark, stitch the undercollar pieces together following the red line. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching lines or clip the curve.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
10. Turn right side out and press flat. Look how nice it looks already!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
11. If we open it, this is how it looks. It is best to cut your seam allowances with different length to avoid markings on the outside of the fabric when pressing.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
12. Almost done! Now take your shirt and baste around the neckline (sorry, my thread is very matchy, almost invisible. But there is a red arrow.). Clip around the neckline.
15 copia13. Matching the center and the extremities, pin the collar to the shirt. Stitch first the inside layer like you would for bias biding. Press the seam allowance toward the collar. Fold in the seam allowance of the other layer, pin and stitch with a topstitch very close to the edge (see the arrows). Continue the topstitching around the whole collar.
This is it! I hope it was useful and I will be back very soon with the next step by step on sleeve cuffs with placket.
This week end, I’ll try to take pictures of the photographer with his new shirt 🙂
Have a nice end of the week.
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