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welt pocket


After a post last week, here I am again, back from my hibernation with 2 new patterns: The Xerea Dress and the Sorell Trousers.Let’s talk about the latter today:

The Sorell trousers are high waist pants with a lot of details inspired by men’s trousers (even the zipper side!). And you’ll recognize the style of the Hollywood actresses I admire: Katherine Hepburn’s casual confidence, Marlene Dietrich’s androgyny, Vivien Leigh’s modernity…
If you’re a fan of pockets, you’ll be more than happy with its 4 kinds of pockets: slash pockets, watch pockets and then View A has back welt pocket whereas View B has patch pockets. Of course you can choose to make only the front slash pockets to make it easier or if you plan to use a printed fabric.
Talking about fabrics: Sorell is perfect with a woolen fabric for winter, linen for summer or denim for a retro look. And if your fabric has a little bit of stretch, no problem (but I wouldn’t recommend anything with more than 3 %).
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-7For a vintage look, the trousers legs are wide but the waist and hips are fitted so if you are between 2 sizes or you’re afraid to be unable to sit after lunch, choose the bigger. Anyway, the best solution it still to make a muslin (even a simplified one with the main pieces).
I’ll be coming back with a step-by-step photo tutorial very soon, so even if it’s your first pair of trousers, don’t be afraid to try it!
sorell-trousers-pattern-sewing-8Just a word on the fabrics i used: View A is made in denim from The Sweet Mercerie and View B in a linen/silk mix from Julián López.


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Summer is here and I am in need of cute yet confortable clothes! I think that I can live an entire summer out of dresses but sometimes I feel more like wearing pants, shorts or even overalls… but still feel dressed up and cute.
And here comes the Scalloped Hem Shorts pattern by Pattern Runway, perfect for these summer days when you need to look smart but cool at the same time. I love the hem (of course!), the classic look of the slash and welt pockets, the front seam… Very sassy! It could easily go from a day at the beach to a meeting in the city and finish to a party or drinks on the evening.
Of course, in order to wear them all day long, you might want to stay away from linen! What can I say? I had this waxed linen for about a year and I love its leathery look, I think it adds a nice touch to the pattern but it wrinkles like crazy. I was seated for 15 minutes before taking the pictures and the front looks aweful (I saw that only after taking the pictures ;).
5The sizing of the pattern is good but I found it a little big. According to the measurements, I cut a size XS (and didn’t make a muslin, silly me) but when I tried it on, it was large both at the hips and at the waist (it’s supposed to sit at the natural waist). I remember reading reviews saying the same. I stitched 1,5 cm seam allowances all over instead of the 1 cm included in the pattern. But I think I’ll just cut the XXS size next time as it’s still a little big (it’s the first time I’ve entered into such a small size haha). I would also make them a little bit shorter, but that’s a personal preference. But these are such easy changes that I can only say the best about this pattern (and it’s really my fault as I could have avoided that by making a muslin).
4The instructions are clear (the welt pocket lining could be easier, if you have never made one, take your time and check their online tutorial). I made false welt pockets as I didn’t want to add bulk to the back and I knew I wouldn’t use these pockets anyway.
What about you, do you have a favourite shorts pattern?


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Let’s make some Welt Pockets today! After making the bound buttonholes and the buttonholes opening for our Ninot jacket, you’ll see some similarities so it will look so much easier…


1.If you are making the lined version A of the Ninot jacket, your front piece is already fully interfaced. If you are making unlined version B, apply interfacing on the pocket opening (you can make the interfacing rectangle a little bigger than the pocket opening).

2.Baste around the pocket opening.

ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-4ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-53.Fold the welt piece in two with wrong sides together. Baste it at 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the outer edge.


4.Place the welt over the bottom line of the pocket opening, matching the basted lines. The folded edge is facing down. Stitch over the basted line, starting and ending about 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the edges.


5.Pin the pocket (cut in lining fabric) and the pocket facing with the right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Baste at 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the upper edge.
ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-126.With right side facing down (and the pocket upside down), pin the pocket facing to the pocket opening matching the basted lines. Stitch over the basted line, starting and ending 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the edges.


7.Cut the pocket opening, cutting diagonally into the corner in a V shape the closest possible to the stitches. Be careful and remove the seam allowances from the welt and pocket facing from the other side before cutting.


8.Pass the welt and the pocket facing throught the opening. Fold the little triangles like in the picture and press lightly to keep in place.
9.Take the other pocket piece in lining fabric and place it over the welt pocket, matching the outer edge. Pin together and stitch at 1,5 cm (5/8″) (it’s easier if you use a zipper foot). Press open.


 10.Place the welt first and then the facing over it. Press lightly. Pin the pocket edges together.


11.Stitch the little triangle to the pocket welt and facing, the closest possible to the triangle base, using a short stitch length.

ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-22 12.Now stitch the pocket edges together. If you are making version B, finish the edge with bias binding.

13.Here is the welt pocket from the right side: pretty, no? Remove the basting, make the second pocket and you’re done!
On Friday, we’ll see the last Ninot jacket tutorial: the collar and facing. See you then…




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It’s a jacket! You were a few to have guessed in the right direction, the buttonholes might have helped.


The Ninot Jacket is a short swing jacket, with a deep inverted pleat in the back. This style was very fashionable during the 40’s and 50’s (and you know how much I love these years…). As much as I love a fitted jacket, I think the small volume given by the back pleat makes it ideal for an everyday jacket, with enough structure to look sophisticated for the evening in the right fabric (think tweed with some lurex or brocade, amazing no?).
And for the “Couture” touch, bound buttonholes and welt pockets.


There are 2 versions of the jacket:

Version A is fully lined and has a Peter Pan collar. It’s perfect for making in wool crepe (like the burgundy one above), wool, flannel, tweed, brocade… Winter time fabrics! And why not add a little faux-fur to the collar and cuffs like the green version above? It feels so luxurious…
Version B is unlined (seam allowances are finished with bias binding for a clean and fun finish). It’s collarless and has button back and sleeve tabs. It would be a cute jacket for spring made in gabardine, linen or cotton twill for example (with contrasting bias binding).
There are minimum tailoring techniques (the bound buttonholes can be replaced by machine-made buttonholes), the sewing level required is intermediate (a tutorial serie is already planned).



I hope you like the Ninot Jacket. Feel like making it? Buy the pattern here!
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