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jacket pattern

ZOOM IN: THE SERRA JACKET

Serra is an unstructured, unisex jacket with raglan sleeves, fully lined. There are 3 views for 3 different styles and uses: a parka jacket for View A, an athletic blouson for View B and a trench coat for View C.  

 

VIEW A 

View A of the Serra jacket is a mid-thigh length jacket inspired by the Pauline Alice Mini coat and the traditionnal breton raincoat. It has been designed for the rainy and stormy days along the breton coast (my homeland). You’ll find all the details of the original Mini coat: a parka/raincoat shape with storm shield and double pockets with flaps and snap buttons. We’ve also added a stand-up collar, a drawstring casing for those of you who want some waist definition and a detachable hood. The jacket hits below your bottom and is closed by a zipper and two button plackets with snap buttons. 

You can choose a lot of different fabrics for your Serra jacket. To keep the raincoat vibe, choose a coated or wax coton gabardine, perfect to protect you from the wind, in light to medium weight (between 150 and 300 gr/m2).  

Fabric : Trench dry oilskin – beige – Merchant & Mills.

 

VIEW B 

View B is a short blouson jacket with hood. With athletic aesthetic, it’s great for outdoor adventures like a walk in the mountains. It has a front zipper from the hood to the elasticized hem. We have added zipped pockets: one on the bust and two on the front, large enough to hold all your everyday belongings (keys, money and phone).  

View B would look great with a technical fabric such as cordura® light or cordura® ripstop, or any light to medium weight fabric (between 135 et 200 g/m2). Here, we have used a lightweigh coton canvas.  

Fabric : Imper coton toilé – uni, forêt (this color is out of stock)- Stragier.

 

VIEW C 

For View C, we’ve been thinking about the iconic trench coat. Designed to be worn everyday in the city (or on the countryside if you prefer!), it’s a knee-length jacket with storm shield and gun flap, two big buttoned welt pockets and an interior pocket. Its classic collar has buttons on the collar stand to attach the removable hood. You’ll also find button bands on the sleeves. The jacket is closed by five front buttons and can be belted. 

Fabric wise, there’s so much to choose from! How about a classic gabardine, coated canvas or woolen?  

Fabric : houndstooth wool (out of stock – similar) – écru, brun, kaki – The Sweet Mercerie. 

We have designed the three Serra versions to offer a versatile jacket pattern, that you can adapt to your daily life and your personal style easily. All the details can be removed and added to all three versions so you can create an unique jacket. We have prepared a post on the subject to explain how to adapt the pattern.  

– You can find the SERRA jacket pattern in printed copy or PDF (A4 print-at-home and A0 copyshop included) in the shop. –
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Zoom in: the Tello jacket

Let me introduce you the Tello jacket today.

Tello is a classic utility jacket, unlined and with many pockets (by now, you should know I’m a pocket addict!). It features topstitching, a Balmacaan collar, and one-piece sleeves shaped with an elbow dart. The front closure can be made of buttons or snaps.

As for the various pockets, I bet you’ll find what you need: large hip U-line pockets, a small chest pocket and a vertical zipped chest pocket with lined interior. So practical!

I had a similar jacket when I was younger and I love how it was so versatile. That’s why I wanted to design a jacket that goes with almost everything in your wardrobe: a cute dress, a pair of jeans, shorts… Typically, it’s the jacket you grab before going out on a summer evening without thinking!

The Tello jacket construction is quite easy, I would recommend it as an intermediary level pattern and it would be great as a first jacket with interesting details. It’s unlined (you can either serge the seam allowances or bound them with a pretty bias binding tape matching the lined pocket), the one-piece sleeve is easy to insert and the collar is only one piece. Use snaps instead of buttons to make even simpler.

You can use a great variety of fabrics to make the Tello jacket: gabardine, twill, denim, lightweight wool or linen like the presentation version. You also need some lining for the pocket (cotton would be perfect) and bias binding if you choose to finish your seams this way. No interfacing is required, this is a rather informal jacket, but if you think your fabric would need it, feel free to interface the collar and facings.

Easy to make and easy to wear, what more can you ask the Tello jacket?

You can find the Tello jacket pattern in the shop in both PRINTED and PDF versions.

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saler jacket pattern in white and kaki

You might know it by now but jackets and coats are my favourite garments to sew. I love the tailoring aspect of sewing, the structure of these pieces, the time and patient hand-sewing involved in such projects.
With the Saler jacket, I wanted to offer a classic pattern with tailored details and timeless style. The pattern includes illustrated instructions and all the pattern pieces you’ll need: interfacing and lining have their own pieces. It’s a time consuming pattern and more recommended for an advanced seamstress but it’s also the perfect challenge for an intermediate one, thanks to the detailled instructions.

The Saler jacket features shoulder princess seams at the front and back for an easy fit, two pieces sleeves with a buttoned vent, double welt pockets with flap, it is partially interfaced following the modern method of fusing interfacing and entirely lined by machine (bagging technic).

The most important steps for making the Saler jacket is to take to amount of time necessary to make a muslin and mark your fabric.

Marking the fabric can be tedious and we often want to start sewing as soon as possible but believe me, when you’re done marking all your jacket pieces, putting them together is going to be so much easier.

As for recommended fabric, you can choose between a classic wool or tweed, linen or crepe for a summery version, gabardine or denim for a more casual look… Just make sure your fabric has a little bit of drape, it’s going to be easier (I don’t recommend using gabardine if you’re not already accustomed with jacket-making as the stiffness of the fabric is going to make it more difficult – I had to set my sleeves 3 times to get an ok sleeve cap, and it’s still not perfect while the sleeves of the jackets I made in light tweed went in beautifully). Another important detail is the choice of interfacing: I like to use weft interfacing as when fused, it follows nicely the drape of the fabric.

saler jacket pattern in white gabardine saler jacket in white gabardine zoom saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

saler jacket pattern in white and kaki

Gabardine “driftwood” and “blanc”: les Trouvailles d’Amandine
Wool: France Duval Stalla
I’m finishing the “zoom on” series with this Jacket, I hope you’ll like it!

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