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ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-5
Hello! Are you ready for the last Ninot jacket Tutorial?
I remind you that we saw previously how to make a bound buttonhole, the buttonhole opening on the facing and the welt pocket (click on the link to see the tutorial). Let’s start!
 
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 1.Apply interfacing to the under collar piece (here I have interfaced both to give more strength to my fabric, but you should interface only the undercollar with both interfacing pieces). Cut a piece of interfacing to form the collar roll, it should look like the bottom collar piece in the picture. This become your under collar and the other piece is then the upper collar.

 

ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-22.Take the under collar piece and trim about 2 – 3 mm (2/16″ – 1/8″) from the outer edge. This will account for the turn of cloth and keep the stitching line from showing.
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-3ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-43.Shape the under collar around your dress form if you have one (if you don’t you can use a folded towel about the size of your neck). Fold gently around the collar roll and pin in place. Steam the collar and leave it cool down at least a few hours (a full night is better).
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-5ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-64.After the under collar is completely dry, pin it to the jacket shell matching center back and front marks. Stitch. Trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk.
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5.Take the front and back facing pieces and interface them. Match the shoulder seams, pin and stitch together. Press the seam allowances open.
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-96.Pin the upper collar to facing, matching center back and front marking. Stitch. Trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk
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7.Pin the facing to the jacket like you would do for a normal jacket, pinning also the collars together. The under collar is slightly smaller than the upper collar because we trimmed it, so you will have to ease it a little bit while pinning them together. Start stitching from the center of the collar and stitch down to the collar end. Repeat on the other side. Then stitch the facings corners.
Clip and trim the seam allowances to reduce excessive bulk, especially where the collar meets the jacket.
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8.Here is the turn of cloth: see how the stitching line is kept under the collar? Press it flat nicely.
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9.The finished collar! And as the facing is stitched to the jacket, now is the moment to finish your buttonholes and handstitch the opening to the buttonhole.
I hope the tutorials were useful for the confection of the Ninot jacket or any other jacket by the way.
Have a wonderful week end!
pauline-sewing-pattern
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Camí Sew-Along: Version B – Making the Cuffs
I hope you had a nice strong cup of coffee or tea this morning as today’s post is a tough one! Let’s begin!
STITCH THE CUFF
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-11.Take your two cuff pieces, already interfaced and place them with right side together. Make sure the opening is marked (I drew only the slit but you can draw the whole box as in the pattern, it’s easier).
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2.Pin and stitch the cuff, pivoting around the opening. It’s best to use a short length stitch (I used nº 2 for example).

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3.Cut carefully the opening between the stitches. At the end, cut a V-shape the closest possible to the stitch line to the angles like in the picture. Be careful not to cut the stitches!

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4.Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners very close to the angles.

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5.Open the cuff and pin together the side seams, with right side together. No need to turn the cuff inside out. Stitch.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs66.Press the seam open.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs77.Turn the cuff inside out and press.
JOIN THE CUFF TO THE SLEEVE

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cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs111. Now comes the tricky step: matching the cuff seam and the sleeve seam, pin the cuff inside the sleeve hem. Look carefully at the pictures and try before sewing. We will stitch the cuff like we would stitch bias binding. So the cuff right side is against the sleeve wrong side (believe me, try it! I inserted my first cuff on the wrong side.) When you have pinned it, stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs12cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs132. Take the cuff out of the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-143. Topstitch!

4. And repeat on the other side of course… What do you think? Easy or difficult?

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Camí Sew-Along: Sewing the Bodice

Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!

BODICE FRONT DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-11.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-22.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-33.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-44.Press the dart toward the center.

5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.

BODICE BACK DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-51.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-62.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.

SIDE SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-71.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-82.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-93.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).

SHOULDER SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-101.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.

BUTTON PLACKET

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-111.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-122.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-133.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.

That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Interfacing the Collar, Cuffs and Button Placket
Edit:
I created a Camí Sew-Along flicker group so you can post pictures of your on-going project, show your fabric… But if you have any questions, better ask them here so everybody can see the answer!
And at the end of the Sew-Along, send me a picture of your finished dress and we’ll make a big finish with all your creations!
Now that you have made your muslin and the needed alterations to your pattern, it’s time to cut your fabric (after having washed and pressed previously to avoid any shrinkage).
We’ll prepare the pieces that need to be interfaced.
A word on interfacing: it should always match in weight your fabric, or be lighter. As the fabrics recommended for the Camí dress are light, use a lightweight interfacing. I like to use light weft interfacing (it’s a mix between knit and woven interfacing: it has the stability of woven interfacing but still has the drapeability of the knit). It’s available almost everywhere. Here’s a picture of how it looks (it also comes in black):
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
1. Cut your collar pieces on the interfacing: 2 under collar pieces and 2 upper collar pieces. Place them over their corresponding fabric piece, the interfacing glue facing the fabric wrong side. Take your iron, spritz a little of water over the piece and steam-press the interfacing to the fabric. You might want to use a press-cloth just in case some glue get onto your iron. Repeat for the other collar pieces.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
2.The same goes for the cuffs. Cut the 4 cuff pieces (sorry, only picture of 2), put them over the fabric and steam-press.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
3.Now for the button placket, cut 2 strips of interfacing of 3×39 cm (or 1,2″x15,3″). They correspond to the pattern piece A.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
4.Take your bodice front, wrong side facing up, and place the interfacing strip (glue facing down) between the marks. Steam-press. Repeat on the other side.
There you go! Wednesday we’ll actually start sewing our bodice. I remind you that you can find the schedule and the links to the previous Sew-Along posts here.
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