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port trousers 6

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Here it is, the new pattern: the Port trousers and its short version. Its casual look will be perfect for the back at school/work season or the ones who don’t want to say good-bye to summer.
The chino cut, military inspired, makes it perfect all year-round. How about wearing view A with cuffed hems and heels for work or view B to make the most of the last summer days?
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The Port trousers have a relaxed fit at the waist and hips with a slightly tapered leg and ankle length, as well as a mid-rise waistband with belt loops. There are many pockets options (you all know my love for pockets by now, no?): view A with front slant pockets and back patch pockets, view B with front patch pockets and back zipped pockets.
I recommend using medium-weight fabrics such as gabardine, twill cotton, linen, denim… or even lightweight woolen fabrics for a more dressed-up version.
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The Port trousers pattern is available at the shop only as a PDF download.
I wanted to propose an easy trousers pattern, with interesting details, that could be made quite quickly (print it, stitch it on the very same day! Great as the week end is coming!). And printed pattern are coming back very soon…
I’m preparing a series of posts on trousers common adjustments, inspiration and a few tutorials in the up-coming weeks.
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Fabrics:
View A: gabardine from Cousette (worn with a Bailén top in rayon from Cousette)
View B: denim from Julían López (worn with a Carme blouse)
I hope you’ll like the Port trousers and that it will join your fall wardrobe!
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New Pattern: the Rosarí Skirt Pattern!
I don’t know if you noticed that there was something missing from the Pauline Alice patterns… A skirt!
Well, problem solved with the new pattern: the ROSARÍ  skirt!!!

new-pattern-rosari-skirt-pattern-sewing-1Inpsired by the 70’s, the Rosarí skirt has lots of different variations: 2 lengths (mini or midi) and 4 different types of pockets to choose from. I’m sure you’ll find your favorite combination!

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Mini version, pockets D – suede Cousette
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Mini version, pockets C – corduroy Cousette
In the instructions booklet (illustrated and detailled like always), you’ll find all the explanations to make the different pockets: rounded denim style pockets with coin pocket, patch pockets, pleated pockets with flap and zipped pockets.
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Midi version, pockets A – denim Tejidos Dolz
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Midi version, pockets B – gabardine Cousette

The Rosarí skirt is easy to make and even more to wear. It buttons on the front and the shaped waistband has belt loops. Choose medium weight fabrics such as gabardine, denim, linen, corduroy, suede and you’ll be able to wear it all year round.

I hope you’ll like this new pattern, I can’t wait to see what version you’ll make. You’ll find the new ROSARÍ skirt in the shop.

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Xerea pocket tutorial
I’ve been meaning to write a tutorial on how to sew the pockets of the Xerea dress for quite some time now. I know that some of you also requested it as these pockets are not set the usual way and they can be tricky.
So here we go, a step-by-step photo tutorial on the Xerea pockets:xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1Here are the pieces involded in the pocket construction:
– 1 Front (it can either from view A or view B. If you’re making view A, remember to stitch the dart before).
– 3 Side Front
– 7 Pocket
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-21. With right sides together, pin the pocket (7) to the front (1), matching the marks.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-32. Stitch along the pocket curve. Notch the seam allowances. Clip the seam allowances at the top mark.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-43. Press the pocket seam flat (you can understitch the seam allowance if you want). Open the pocket like on the picture.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-64. We are going to stitch the side front (3) to the front/pocket piece. With right sides together, pin the side front (3) to the front/pocket. Start pinning from the top, side front to front and when you reach the pocket, continue to pin to the pocket curve as if it was one unique piece, matching the marks. Stitch.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-85. Place the pocket inside and press the pocket opening flat and the seam allowances toward the front. Trim and finish them.I hope this will help you. It’s a difficult step to photograph but if you make a pratice pocket before sewing your Xerea, I’m sure it will be easier to understand.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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Xerea Dress Pattern
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-1Today let’s talk about the perfect summer dress:  the Xerea Dress. Inspired by the 60’s mini dresses, Xerea is easy to sew and easy to wear!
The pattern is available in two versions: View A is a shift dress with short sleeves and View B a sleeveless tent dress with center box pleat. Both views include pockets at the princess seams.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-2Xereaxerea-dress-pattern-sewing-3 is perfect for beginners and will delight advanced (lazy) seamstresses: no zipper, no buttons. The dress is put on easily thanks to the open back neckline, finished with bias binding.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-4For fabrics, I would recommend fabrics with some drape, in particular if you choose the shift dress.
For the shift version, View A, I used an ikat cotton (Henry et Henriette) with piping inserted in the princess seams – perfect for summer – and for the tent version, View B,  I used a jersey (Tejidos Paredes – make sure it’s stable enough: for example ponte knit fabric) for a 60’s style.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-5xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-6The yoke design allow you to use contrasting fabric very easily: how about color blocking or lace accents? All the hems are finished with bias binding, make your own with matching fabric for an invisible finish or add some subtle contrast to your dress.
This pattern can also transition easily into the colder months: lengthen the sleeves or make view B in woolen fabric to wear as a pinafore over a shirt or pullover.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-7I hope you’ll like the new patterns, the Xerea dress and the Sorell trousers!

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New Pattern: Eliana Dress

It feels like yesterday I was releasing the Quart coat and here I am, with a new pattern for you! Well, truth be told, I don’t work super fast, but this new pattern was designed and printed at the same time as the coat, that’s why I’m able to offer it to you so soon.Please welcome the Eliana dress:

Eliana is the kind of dress you can make so many times and it will not look the same: depending on the fabric you choose and the variations, you’ll go from chic to casual, winter to summer, one color to contrasting hues…
new-pattern-eliana-dress-sewing-1new-pattern-eliana-dress-sewing-2I’ve been making samples with elastic waistband and I loved it so much I knew I needed to design a pattern with that detail. On the Eliana dress, you can choose to have a comfortable elastic encased waistband or add a ribbon to tie the dress around your waist.
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On the very first sketches of the Eliana dress, the model was supposed to be for summer with only the sleeveless version. But soon it seems like raglan sleeve options were perfect to get a versatile pattern. And because comfort and practicality are essential, the dress has inseam pockets.
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Easy to make with no zipper or button, you can choose to make the front or back opening and just tie it or let it loose. Use contrast binding or self fabric as an original detail to frame the softly gathered neckline.

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The flirty skirt hits just above the knee, perfect to wear either with heels or flats.
The sleeve version (View A) is made in black rayon voile with a grey japanese print (trees and birds).
The sleeveless version (View B) is made in cotton voile with an ethnic print, black bias binding and black grosgrain ribbon.
Both fabrics were purchased at The Sweet Mercerie.
new-pattern-eliana-dress-sewing-8I hope you like the Eliana dress. Which version is your favourite?
Buy the Eliana dress pattern, in print or PDF, at the shop!

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New pattern: the Quart coat!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-1There’s nothing I like more to sew and wear than coats! And more than once I’ve cursed my sunny (and too warm) city because winter is too mild to wear heavy outerwear.
But it was time for me to take my pencils, my ruler and my fabrics to offer you the pattern of a nice coat full of possibilities: the Quart coat!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-2new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-3With its high collar, pockets and long zipped sleeves, the Quart coat will protect you from the cold with style. The princess seams will highlight your figure nicely and the pleated side is the perfect girly detail.
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Quart coat pattern made in navy blue raw silk.
I was inspired by Burberry’s military style: elegant and classic outerwear that will match easily with whatever you’re wearing and that you’ll love wearing year after year.
Besides, the Quart coat can be made in wool coating for winter as well as lighter fabrics (gabardine, twill…) for a trenchcoat version perfect for mid-season.
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-5new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-6The Quart pattern, with its advanced level, has these small details that will make the intermediate seamstress progress and will please the expert ones (think handstitched interfacing, bound buttonholes, zipped cuffs, epaulettes…).

The glossary on the last page comes back on the terms and techniques essentials to make this pattern. And because it’s starting to be an habit now, I’m already preparing a photo tutorial to follow in depth the Quart coat construction.

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Head to the shop and get the Quart coat pattern!
I can’t wait to see what you’ll come up with, your thoughts on the pattern and to show you the testers versions.
Have a great week!
new-pattern-quart-coat-sewing-8ps: I’d like to remind you that you can take advantage of your order of the printed pattern to receive the new folders for free! If you have pauline alice printed patterns still in their (thin) envelopes, add their names in the comment box when confirming your order and they’ll be sent without any additional cost.

 

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Maxi Camí

For the last couple of years, every summer has been filled with weddings and it can become quite difficult not to repeat outfits when you don’t want to buy (or in my case, make!) a new dress for every occasion. But at the same time, I love weddings and the opportunity to dress up and wear something with a little bit of extra glamour for one night.

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So this is what I wore at 2 weddings this summer, one in France and one here in Valencia last week-end. I took this picture just before leaving for the reception and I’m so embarrased at the horribly wrinkled skirt (the fabric doesn’t press well to my defence).

On a side note, I wore my multicolor Alameda to 1 wedding and a dark blue jumpsuit to 2 weddings. And I still have 1 to go in November so if you have any idea…feel free because I’m quite at a loss as to what to make! Yes 6 weddings just this year!

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I used my Cami dress pattern for the bodice and sleeves. I made the 3/4 sleeves without the cuffs and just rolled the ends. As you can see, I just stitched 3 buttons on the bodice as I wanted the neckline to stay open quite low. I didn’t make any other changes to the original pattern.

For the skirt, I drafted a long half-circle skirt with a little bit of gathers at the waist. It took a lot of fabric but the way it flows and moves when I walk is absolutely perfect. And of course I added the pockets from the Camí dress, so practical!

The back is cut on the fold while the front is in two pieces, that way I extended the button placket til mid-thigh. I have to say I had some “Angelina Jolie’s leg” moments 😉

I also made a sash/belt folding the fabric in two. I debated about a contrasting leather belt but at the end, I liked the look of the fabric one better: I think it elongated my petite frame.

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I had a very specific shade of pink in mind for this dress: I call it “capote” pink. “Capote” in spanish is the name of the bullfighting cape, it’s a bright fuscia colour usually with yellow lining. I didn’t go with the yellow lining but I found this twill with peach skin finish in the right shade on sales. The price was really low (I also suspect that it’s because it was a blend) so I grabbed 4m.

I hope you like this variation and that you’ll try it! It’s very easy (you only need a good yardage!) and it makes a dress easy to wear and with impact!

Have a great week! I’ll be in Vicenza for the Abilmente Fair, come say hello if you’re there!

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Turia dungarees: Pockets tutorial
I’m not going to make a full Sew-Along for the Turia dungarees pattern but rather a series of small tutorials on the most important features of the pattern construction. The pattern construction in itself is quite simple, apart from the pockets and the straps, there are only 3 main pieces: the bodice, the font and the back. The most complicated step is certainly how to make a flat-fell seam, as it may well be a new technique for you. Don’t worry, it’s easy and we’ll cover it on Friday!
But let’s start today with the patch pockets! Because dungarees are a casual and most importantly, a practical garment (yes, yes, even for going to the ladies room, it just takes practice!), pockets are an essential element.
I’m going to show you how to sew easily the front and back patch pockets:

FRONT POCKETS

turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1To help you fold the seam allowances in, staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″). You don’t need to staystitch the top edge of the front pocket.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2Clip the seam allowance of pocket opening: that’s the curved edge. Be careful not to cut the stitches!
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3Fold the seam allowance to the inside and press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4Stitch two rows of topstitching along the curved edge. Here is how I like to sew my topstitching so that the distance between the rows is always the same:
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turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6I like to stitch the first row about 3 mm (1/8″) from the edge. Then I like to place the edge of the needle plate against the first stitching line and follow it (that’s roughly 8 mm or 5/16″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances.
Press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-8Place the pocket on the dungarees front piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. The top edges of the pocket and the front piece should match. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the curved and top edges open.

BACK POCKETS

turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-9Staystitch all around the front pocket just inside the seam allowance (about 1,2 cm from the edge or 1/2″).
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-10turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-11Turn the top edge along the staystitch, press. Fold again and stitch two rows of topstitching.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-12Fold the sides and bottom seam allowances along the staystitch. Make sure the staystitching line is on the inside of the seam allowances. Press.
turia-dungarees-pockets-tutorial-sewing-pattern-13Place the pocket on the dungarees back piece, matching the marks and pin it in place. Then stitch two rows of topstitching along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open.
On Friday, we’ll see how to make the flat-fell seam and next week, I’ll explain how to change the pattern into a pinafore dress very easily as quite a lot were interested in this variation. Have a great week!
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Alameda Sew-Along: the skirt
The Alameda dress is taking shape little by little: you now have your complet bodice with lining.
Today, we’ll see how to make the skirt of the Alameda, the skirt lining and join them to the bodice:

Watch the video directly in Youtube.

Let’s meet on Saturday for the last step of the #AlamedaSewAlong!

 

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Summer Shorts: Pattern Runway Scalloped Hem Shorts in Linen
Summer is here and I am in need of cute yet confortable clothes! I think that I can live an entire summer out of dresses but sometimes I feel more like wearing pants, shorts or even overalls… but still feel dressed up and cute.
And here comes the Scalloped Hem Shorts pattern by Pattern Runway, perfect for these summer days when you need to look smart but cool at the same time. I love the hem (of course!), the classic look of the slash and welt pockets, the front seam… Very sassy! It could easily go from a day at the beach to a meeting in the city and finish to a party or drinks on the evening.
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Of course, in order to wear them all day long, you might want to stay away from linen! What can I say? I had this waxed linen for about a year and I love its leathery look, I think it adds a nice touch to the pattern but it wrinkles like crazy. I was seated for 15 minutes before taking the pictures and the front looks aweful (I saw that only after taking the pictures ;).
5The sizing of the pattern is good but I found it a little big. According to the measurements, I cut a size XS (and didn’t make a muslin, silly me) but when I tried it on, it was large both at the hips and at the waist (it’s supposed to sit at the natural waist). I remember reading reviews saying the same. I stitched 1,5 cm seam allowances all over instead of the 1 cm included in the pattern. But I think I’ll just cut the XXS size next time as it’s still a little big (it’s the first time I’ve entered into such a small size haha). I would also make them a little bit shorter, but that’s a personal preference. But these are such easy changes that I can only say the best about this pattern (and it’s really my fault as I could have avoided that by making a muslin).
4The instructions are clear (the welt pocket lining could be easier, if you have never made one, take your time and check their online tutorial). I made false welt pockets as I didn’t want to add bulk to the back and I knew I wouldn’t use these pockets anyway.
What about you, do you have a favourite shorts pattern?
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Let’s make some Welt Pockets today! After making the bound buttonholes and the buttonholes opening for our Ninot jacket, you’ll see some similarities so it will look so much easier…

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1.If you are making the lined version A of the Ninot jacket, your front piece is already fully interfaced. If you are making unlined version B, apply interfacing on the pocket opening (you can make the interfacing rectangle a little bigger than the pocket opening).
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2.Baste around the pocket opening.

ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-4ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-53.Fold the welt piece in two with wrong sides together. Baste it at 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the outer edge.

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4.Place the welt over the bottom line of the pocket opening, matching the basted lines. The folded edge is facing down. Stitch over the basted line, starting and ending about 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the edges.

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5.Pin the pocket (cut in lining fabric) and the pocket facing with the right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Baste at 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the upper edge.
ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-126.With right side facing down (and the pocket upside down), pin the pocket facing to the pocket opening matching the basted lines. Stitch over the basted line, starting and ending 1,5 cm (5/8″) from the edges.

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7.Cut the pocket opening, cutting diagonally into the corner in a V shape the closest possible to the stitches. Be careful and remove the seam allowances from the welt and pocket facing from the other side before cutting.

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8.Pass the welt and the pocket facing throught the opening. Fold the little triangles like in the picture and press lightly to keep in place.
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9.Take the other pocket piece in lining fabric and place it over the welt pocket, matching the outer edge. Pin together and stitch at 1,5 cm (5/8″) (it’s easier if you use a zipper foot). Press open.

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 10.Place the welt first and then the facing over it. Press lightly. Pin the pocket edges together.

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11.Stitch the little triangle to the pocket welt and facing, the closest possible to the triangle base, using a short stitch length.

ninot-tutorial-welt-pockets-sewing-pattern-22 12.Now stitch the pocket edges together. If you are making version B, finish the edge with bias binding.

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13.Here is the welt pocket from the right side: pretty, no? Remove the basting, make the second pocket and you’re done!
On Friday, we’ll see the last Ninot jacket tutorial: the collar and facing. See you then…

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Malvarosa Dress Pattern!

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Here it is, the new pattern: the Malvarosa dress!
After a fitted 50’s inspired dress, I wanted to recreate the style of another decade I love: the 60’s.
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This babydoll dress is all about volume, fun and comfort without compromise on great style.
Version A has small drop shoulders, perfect for summer or for parties!
The pattern features a low waistline with A-line bodice, a gathered skirt with hidden pockets, bust darts and boat neckline.

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For a dramatic result, use a fabric with a lot of body like this black and white cotton canvas (with Eiffel Tower, french poodles and the typical french policeman on bike, how cute!) or a taffeta or brocade, so that the dress will stay open, away from your body.

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Version B has elbow length sleeves attached to the drop shoulders. I made this version with a beautiful cotton fabric from designer Anna Maria Horner from Telaria online shop.
One of my favourite features on this pattern are the pockets hidden in the skirts gathers. You don’t even notice they are here until you put your hands in them. And I don’t know about you, but pockets are definitely a must for me!

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As you can see, the pattern is quite simple, it’s recommended for a beginner seamstress. There is no fastener of any kind (no zipper or buttons), just pull through like a t-shirt.
The shape is loose so fitting is not too complicated either.
The Malvarosa pattern is a great project for a beginner seamstress who is looking for an dress easy to accessorize and make in a lot of different fabrics (think heavy brocade for a party, chambray or cotton for summer, wool for winter, or even lace for a wedding…).

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Feel like making a Malvarosa dress? Buy the pattern here!

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