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Reina shirt

THE REINA SHIRT IN DRESS

You might have seen my stories before Christmas and how I was sewing a special dress for the holidays. I didn’t have time to show it to you yet. I’ve wanted to make a dress from the Reina blouse pattern for ever (there’s a dress in that style in my inspirations photos). And what a better time to try and make it than the holidays?

If you don’t know Reina, it’s a blouse pattern inspired by victorian style. It has a long collar that ties, wide sleeves gathered into a high buttoned cuff and it buttons on the front with nice little fabric loops. You can also make a more casual version with short sleeves and a standing collar.

I found a beautiful textured crepe satin, in a sienna colour I’ve been obsessed with lately, in my local fabric shop. I started with View A, the long sleeves and tie collar version of the Reina pattern, and lengthened the front and back pieces to the desired length. I added about 35 cm so it would hit just above the knee. I also finished the bottom hem differently: instead of a simple hem, I made a facing to add some weight to the dress. For a simpler look, I omitted the collar and made a self-fabric belt with topstitching to adjust the dress at the waist. Overall, I’m pretty happy with the results! It was a nice dress to wear on New Year’s Eve!

Here are the instructions if you want to make a Reina dress :

1/ Cut the front and back pieces along the cutting line. On a big piece of paper, place the pieces about 25 to 35 cm apart (or more if you want a longer dress). Draw the dress shape: trace a line from the neckline base to the bottom edge on the front and back, then from the armscye to the bottom edge.

2/ Once the front and back pieces are modified, trace the hem facing at the bottom of the pieces at 5 to 10 cm above the hemline. Cut on the line and add the 5/8” seam allowances to the front and back pieces as well as the facings. Cut the front facing 4 times and the back facing twice on the fold.

3/ Lengthen the front facing (7) like the front piece (1).

4/ Make a 4 cm (1 ½”) wide belt – the length will depend on your fabric width. Once it’s sewn, you can topstitch it several times.

That’s how you change easily a Reina shirt into a Reina dress. I think I’ll do something similar with the Vera shirt pattern (Céline from @aiguille.coupon.ciseaux made it and it’s great!). When I design a new pattern, I like to think of all the modifications that can be done, whether I include them in the pattern or add them later as tutorials like this one. Playing on length (blouse into dress or dress into blouse), adding or removing some elements (collar, sleeves, belt), it allows you to really take advantage of a single pattern. I don’t like to make twice the same clothes, so instead of make various time the same pattern, I like to make a variation of the same. I think the next pattern I will transform is the Vera shirt and I can also see a skirt based on the Romero trousers. What about you ? Do you like to modify your favourite patterns ? Which ones ?

Here’s a little anecdote: as I wanted to wear this dress for New Year’s Eve, I had a very short time to sew and I decided to “forget” the washing step before cutting my fabric. “Bad Pauline!” I know that’s what you all want to say. And normally, I would say you’re right. But in this particular case, it was “good Pauline”. On New Year’s Eve, the crepe fabric was behaving perfectly, with a beautiful drape. But while taking the pictures afew days later, and after washing the dress, imagine my surprise when it clinged to me everywhere. I think that the special products they put on new fabric prevented the static electricity to make this crepe fabric being glued to me 😉.

So for once, not washing the fabric prior to sewing was a good thing!

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sleeveless varisation reina shirt
We are having a nice summer in Valencia and temperatures are already quite high (for the last 2 months I’ve been wearing summer dresses and sandals). And for me, the Reina shirt is perfect to wear on such warm days: it’s flowy, loose-fitting but put together as well. I’ve made this sleeveless version two months ago and I’m wearing it constantly. I’ll have to make a new one and maybe a dress variation as welsleeveless varisation reina shirt
sleeveless reina shirt 1sleeveless reina shirt back
I’ve used a cotton voile from Cosercosas, a spanish online shop. It’s very soft and light and I couldn’t resist the cute sewing needles print!
Instead of sewing the sleeves, I just finished the armhole seamallowances with self-fabric bias binding. Easy! I didn’t change anything else (except not using any interfacing to keep the drape and lightness of the fabric).
sleeveless reina shirt side
Hope you like it! What’s your favorite summer garment?
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Saler jacket, Reina shirt and Safor skirt patterns testers

I thought I would make a break from showing you the patterns in details and show you the patterns testers versions of the Reina shirt, Safor skirt and Saler jacket (the details of the Saler jacket pattern are coming tomorrow).
Most of you like to see as many versions of a pattern before committing to buying it, I totally relate as I do the same. It’s always nice to see different versions of the same pattern as fabrics, colours and styling are very personal choices and maybe the samples I made don’t speak to you as much as one of the testers versions.

It’s always a great pleasure for me to see the garments the testers made. Most of the time, when I send them the pattern to test, they only have the technical drawing or the pattern illustration to guide them (my muslins are made in pretty awful fabrics and the samples for the pictures are not ready as there’s a big chance the pattern is going to be changed after the testers’ feedback). I like to see the fabrics they chose, the vision they have of the pattern before being influenced by others pictures. Their trust is something that really enlights me, I am so thankful for they help and their amazing work as testers. So let’s see what beautiful garments they have made:

REINA SHIRT

Let’s begin with the Reina shirt pattern. There’s been so minor changes on the pattern since the testers gave me their feedback and the most important is that the plunging neckline has been raised about an inch or so as it was…too plunging!

Reina shirt pattern testers1. Sonia
2. Manju
3. Charo
4. Claire
5. Anne

SAFOR SKIRT

This is the pattern that has most changed since testing. The general feedback was that the asymetrical panels were too deep and that the skirt could be a little bit more fitted around the hips. As you might have seen for the sample pictures, I addressed the issues and the asymetry is now less pronounced.

Safor skirt pattern testers

1. Céline
2. Marie
3. Marie (she made it for her 13 years old daughter, that’s why it’s so long).
4. Isa

SALER JACKET

Apart from lowering the pockets, this pattern hasn’t changed. As you can see, eventhough it’s a very classic design, fabric choice is going to set it apart.

Saler jacket pattern testers
1. Marie
2. Lise
3. Céline
4. Beth
5. Annie
6. Céline
I hope the testers’ versions have inspired you. I’m looking forward to see your own Reina, Safor and Saler versions!

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Reina shirt pattern versions

I would like to start by thanking you all for the wonderful welcome you gave the new patterns yesterday! I’m so grateful and excited to show what you’ll make with them.

Today, we are going to see a little bit more details of the Reina shirt.
As I’ve said yesterday, I’ve been inspired by the delicate and romantic blouses of the late XIXth century, with their high collars, buttoned cuffs and lace inserts (see the moodboard on Pinterest). But I also wanted something that feels modern and can be worn with denims or a simple skirt, that’s why there are two versions of the Reina shirt pattern.

Reina shirt pattern view A zoom Reina shirt pattern view B side

With view A, it’s all about drama! Tie-collar, long and full sleeves gathered into contoured cuffs and of course all these lovely loops and buttons, this is such a romantic shirt! As for view B, it has a more casual feel to it with the small mandarin collar, short sleeves and pockets. You can even mix the different options to get the shirt you want.
This is not a difficult pattern, I guess an advanced beginner can easily make it, but if you need a little help, there will be a tutorial very soon…

The most important step is to choose the right fabric! You should look for light fabrics with drape such as batiste, silk, plumetis, rayon, crepe, chiffon…

Reina shirt pattern view A front Reina shirt pattern view B backReina shirt pattern versions
I made mine from cotton batiste from Les trouvailles d’Amandine in “eclipse” and “crystal gray” colors (the mother-of-pearl buttons are also from there). If you like these fabrics, you can find a “sewing box” with the pattern and a selection of fabrics in their shop.

See you tomorrow with the Safor skirt details..

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saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

The day I release new patterns is always stressful, and today is no exception! During the last months, I’ve been working very hard on these 3 new patterns and I’m so happy (and a little bit anxious) to introduce you to the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket!

These 3 patterns have been designed as a mini collection: each piece can be worn individualy or as a complete outfit. Depending on the version and the fabric you choose, they can all be dressed-up or casual. I wanted classic pieces but with a twist, easy to wear on a daily basis or for a special occasion and that can be mixed with lots of other garments.

Reina shirt pattern versions

The Reina shirt was inspired by Victorian blouses, with loops fastenings and high cuffs. Wide, with a longer back and deep V-neckline, it can be worn with a skirt or pants quite easily.
There are two options: View A has a tie collar and long sleeves whereas View B is perfect for summer days with short sleeves, mandarin collar and small pockets.

Safor skirt pattern 2 versions

A faux-wrap skirt, the Safor skirt is very modern yet has a classic feel. With the yoke following the body curves and two lengths option, it’s versatile, elegant and confortable.

saler jacket pattern in white and kaki

saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

Finally, the Saler jacket will be perfect all year-round and it just goes with everything. Classic tailored shape with princess seams, flap pockets and two pieces sleeves with button vent, it’s the perfect challenge for seamstresses.

You can find the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket in the shop!

I hope you’ll like these new patterns and I’ll be coming back during the week end and next week with details on each pattern.

Fabric credits: all fabrics are from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine.

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