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The new patterns are at the printer right now and I’m really looking forward to receive them!
In the mean time, I’ll show you the inspiration behind the “collection”.

Inspired by travel, the models are both chic and comfortable. Cruise or safari, which one is your style?

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Moodboard: pinterestFabrics: les trouvailles d’Amandine
Can’t wait to release the collection!!!

 

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I’ve made jeans! Like real jeans! I’m very excited about that as buying jeans has always been so frustating for me. I own only 2 pairs of jeans, one skinny and one boyfriend (very loose!). The issue for me when buying jeans is the following: I’m short, only 1m55 (5 ft 1) so I always have to cut about 25 – 30 cm (10″ or 11″) to the hem, which change completely the shape of the jeans. Also I like high rise (mainly at the back) and most of the jeans available are really low rise – which makes it difficult to bent without showing my underwear – or worse…
And finally, I’m not fan of the skinny shape. And this is the only shape I find at the stores.

 

So when I saw the Birkin Flares by Baste & Gather, I was delighted and so excited to make them.About the pattern: It’s great! It has all the details of a store bought jeans, with a nice fit (more on that later) and the instructions are really good and easy to follow.
So the fit… It would be great if I had chosen the right size for me. Next time I’ll go up a size. I don’t think they run small, I think I made a mistake when choosing the size. The legs are a bit too tight for me (you can see the crotch lines) but I could wear them like that. The problem is with the waistband. I can wear the jeans only when standing up 😉 If i sit or bend down a little bit, the waistband cuts into my stomach.
I’ll call them my practice jeans!

 

The denim I used is really nice, it has 2% elasthan which makes it really comfortable. I bought it online at the Sweet Mercerie. As I didn’t find any rivets locally, I didn’t add them. That would be a nice detail but I don’t really feel like paying the extra cost of shipping them here.I hope to show you the second version very soon…

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xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-1Today let’s talk about the perfect summer dress:  the Xerea Dress. Inspired by the 60’s mini dresses, Xerea is easy to sew and easy to wear!
The pattern is available in two versions: View A is a shift dress with short sleeves and View B a sleeveless tent dress with center box pleat. Both views include pockets at the princess seams.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-2Xereaxerea-dress-pattern-sewing-3 is perfect for beginners and will delight advanced (lazy) seamstresses: no zipper, no buttons. The dress is put on easily thanks to the open back neckline, finished with bias binding.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-4For fabrics, I would recommend fabrics with some drape, in particular if you choose the shift dress.
For the shift version, View A, I used an ikat cotton (Henry et Henriette) with piping inserted in the princess seams – perfect for summer – and for the tent version, View B,  I used a jersey (Tejidos Paredes – make sure it’s stable enough: for example ponte knit fabric) for a 60’s style.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-5xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-6The yoke design allow you to use contrasting fabric very easily: how about color blocking or lace accents? All the hems are finished with bias binding, make your own with matching fabric for an invisible finish or add some subtle contrast to your dress.
This pattern can also transition easily into the colder months: lengthen the sleeves or make view B in woolen fabric to wear as a pinafore over a shirt or pullover.
xerea-dress-pattern-sewing-7I hope you’ll like the new patterns, the Xerea dress and the Sorell trousers!

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Thanks do much for your lovely comments about the new pattern, the Quart coat! I can’t wait to see your versions…
But for today, let’s see the Quart coats of some amazing testers. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome:
quart-coat-testers-version-sewing-pattern-1quart-coat-testers-version-sewing-pattern-2Sandra’s beautiful red Quart looks very festive! This is such a great way to brighten a grey Winter.
Read about it (in French) on her blog.
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I absolutely love Manju’s style and her sewing realisations are always so well executed. I am so happy to have her as a tester. Look at that beautiful tweed Quart coat and her bright lining! See more details at SewManju!

 

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Once again, Annie’s pictures are divine, I should definitely ask her to model the patterns for me ;-). Such an amazing classic style and gorgeous coat. Read about her Quart coat (again in French) at her blog.
Have a wonderful end of the week!

 

 

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After choosing your fabric for the Alameda dress, let’s see some style inspiration to help you decide how to combine the colours, patterns or different fabrics to get the perfect dress!

You can use contrasting piping (buy it already made or make your own following this tutorial), contrasting panels, mix and match the skirt and top fabrics, go for a day version or a party look… there are so many options!

 

source: 1, 2, 3

Use different colours or patterned and plain fabrics on the different pattern pieces. For example dark colours on the outside will make you waist appear smaller (great visual trick!). And what about making the flounce in leather? With maybe leather piping? Perfect for the rock’n roll chicks.

source: 1, 2, 3

Prints are great! For a nautical look, go for stripes. Want to emulate the Dolce & Gabbana spanish look, polka dots will be your friends. And for the more romantics, florals can never go wrong.

source: 1, 2, 3
The Alameda dress can go from day to night in no time: just choose the right fabric. How about a brocade? And lace would look amazing as well (remember to underline the dress) for a wedding. Bright colours are a favourite of mine. Leave the piping out and add a big bow for fun.
source: 1, 2, 3
Last but not least, a Fall/Winter version in tweed is really elegant. Worn with a cardigan and tights, the Alameda will make a cute dress for work and for going out on the week-end.
I hope this has given you a lot of ideas for your
Alameda. If you have any questions, let me know here in the comments.

 

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CARME PARTY!!!
Thank you for sending me links to your blogs or photos of your beautiful Carme blouses! This is amazing to see the different versions you’ve made: we’ve got some prints, some plain fabrics, some contrasting yokes, with or without buttons, different sleeve lengths….
It sure gave me a lot of ideas for my next version ;)And now ladies, it’s your turn to show your gorgeous creations:

Bee Made‘s amazing print fabric is perfect for Spring, don’t you think? What an elegant blouse!

I love Gwendolyn‘s contrasting yoke and her beautiful Nani Iro fabric.

I love Marta‘s pretty blue Carme. The discreet print is lovely and make for a casual yet put together look.

Can you believe this is a muslin? I wouldn’t mind having muslin as pretty as Callimetrie‘s casual Carme 😉

Black and blue look great together, like on SB Creations version.

This fabric looks amazingly comfortable. And the red stitching to pick up the dots on the fabric is genious. Congrats l’Irbis!

Annie Coton‘s version is so pretty. The oiled fabric is a very original touch and the cherry blossoms make the perfect background.

Mary Carmen chose to make a contrasting yoke as well. Her fabric looks great and easy to dree up or down.

Dotted swiss: I dream about Sandra’s version. And as she pointed out, perfect for every situation: from the beach to the office.

Ocni‘s version in black cotton is going to get a lot of wear. So versatile it goes with everything…

What can I say about Blousette coquette‘s Carme? I absolutely love the colour! It’s like the twin sister of my last version, hehe.

Kerry‘s printed voile is so beautiful!  And those details are perfect. I love how she cut the yoke without pleats and on the cross-grain.

I’m overwhelmed to see the amazing reception you reserved to the Carme blouse pattern. THANK YOU so much!!!
If your photo is missing, send me an email and I’ll add it.
And remember that you can get the Carme pattern here: Carme blouse pattern.

I’ll let you know more about the next pattern very soon as it’s being tested right now and about the great news: my patterns will be available on print! You will be able to choose between the PDF downloadable pattern and the printed pattern to be send at your home. More coming soon…

Have a great week!

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I can now show you the Camí dress I made for the Sew-Along! I used a floral cotton fabric and a white cotton sateen for the contrasted collar and cuffs (that’s a look I saw on a Dolce & Gabanna dress and I thought I could try to make a modest replica).
Now I really looking forward to show all your pretty dresses on the 25th…
And I remind you that there will be one lucky winner of the next pattern during the giveaway!

 

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I guess you’re looking forward to finish your Camí dress, no? Well, with today’s step, it’s going to be almost done and you’ll be able to try it and see the overall look and fit.
We are going to sew the pockets, gather the skirt and attach it to the bodice. I don’t know about you, but for me, the perfect garment (whether it is a dress, a skirt or a jacket for example) has to have pockets. They are to practical and it’s always a cute detail to add.
DRAW THE SKIRT PIECES
1.Following the instructions, draw the 2 skirts pieces and mark the zipper opening and the pocket start and end.
If you wish to make a circle skirt, there will be a tutorial on how to draw your own circle skirt pattern on Wednesday 9th.
STITCH THE POCKETS
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1.Match the pocket marks to the skirt marks and pin right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-32.Fold the pocket over and press the seam allowances toward the pocket.
Repeat with the other pocket on the opposite side and the two other pockets on the other skirt piece.
STITCH THE SKIRT PIECES TOGETHER

 

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-41.On the right side, match the seams of the two skirt pieces together all around the pockets, with right sides together and pin.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-52.Stitch, pivoting at the pocket angle.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-63. If you insert a regular zipper on the left side (that’s what I will do), match the seams, pin and start stitching from the zipper mark to the hem.
If you are inserting an invisible zipper, it will be easier first to gather the skirt, attach it to the bodice, set the zipper and then close the side seam.
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4.Finissez les marges et repassez les poches vers le devant de la jupe.

GATHERING THE SKIRT

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-81.On the skirt waist seam, baste 3 lines of stitches at 1,5 cm, 1 cm and 0,5 cm from the egde (5/8″, 3/8″ and 1/4″).

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2.Tie the bobbin threads (the ones at the bottom) together at both end. You will pull them to gather the skirt volume.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-10cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-113.Match the skirt side openings, front and back center, side seam to the corresponding bodice marks, with right sides together and pin. Gather the skirt between the marks until it fits the bodice.
When it does, stitch and finish the seam allowances (I like to bind the seam with bias).
There you go! On Wednesday we’ll see how to draw a circle skirt and how to add a lining in case your fabric needs it. Now go try your almost finished dress! And the whole Sew-Along posts are here.
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When I went sewing machine shopping, I knew that one of the main feature I wanted was automatic buttonholes. I love that feature!
So let’s make the buttonholes and sew the buttons on our dress today!
The buttonholes/buttons on the pictures are inversed: buttonholes should be on the right side and buttons on the left. I had to make the change because of the way the collar way standing. Please follow the instructions and sorry for the confusion.
BUTTONHOLES
cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-11.Mark the buttonholes on the right side and the buttons on the left side. Mark the buttonhole and button on the under collar as well.

cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-22.Stitch the buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.
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3.Open the buttonholes with your seam ripper. Be careful not the cut the threads!

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4.Overlap the buttonhole placket over the button placket and baste the edge. The bodice is now opened only on the left side (where we are going to insert the zipper).
Have a great week end (I’ll be having a great one at a wedding!) and see you on Monday for sewing the skirt up and attaching it to the bodice!
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I love pockets for their practicality and the detail they add to any simple design. I thought it would be nice to add an optional pocket template for the Camí dress to give it a more casual look.
Find the link to download the pocket pattern template below. Print it with NO scaling like the pattern, the seam allowances are also included in the pattern (1,5 cm or 5/8″).
cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-11.Cut your pocket piece and mark the folding lines. First, fold the seam allowances all around the pocket edges and press. You can baste or even stitch.
Fold twice the top of the pocket following the folding lines and stitch close to the fold line.

cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-22.Place the pocket over the bodice front left side and pin it matching the pocket bottom to the dart leg. Adjust the height as prefered. Mine is situated just over the bust apex.

When you are happy with the place, stitch around the pocket, leaving the pocket top open.
Are you going to add the pocket? If you have missed a step, here is the schedule.

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Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!

BODICE FRONT DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-11.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-22.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-33.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-44.Press the dart toward the center.

5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.

BODICE BACK DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-51.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-62.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.

SIDE SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-71.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-82.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-93.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).

SHOULDER SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-101.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.

BUTTON PLACKET

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-111.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-122.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-133.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.

That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!

 

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Edit:
I created a Camí Sew-Along flicker group so you can post pictures of your on-going project, show your fabric… But if you have any questions, better ask them here so everybody can see the answer!
And at the end of the Sew-Along, send me a picture of your finished dress and we’ll make a big finish with all your creations!
Now that you have made your muslin and the needed alterations to your pattern, it’s time to cut your fabric (after having washed and pressed previously to avoid any shrinkage).
We’ll prepare the pieces that need to be interfaced.
A word on interfacing: it should always match in weight your fabric, or be lighter. As the fabrics recommended for the Camí dress are light, use a lightweight interfacing. I like to use light weft interfacing (it’s a mix between knit and woven interfacing: it has the stability of woven interfacing but still has the drapeability of the knit). It’s available almost everywhere. Here’s a picture of how it looks (it also comes in black):
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
1. Cut your collar pieces on the interfacing: 2 under collar pieces and 2 upper collar pieces. Place them over their corresponding fabric piece, the interfacing glue facing the fabric wrong side. Take your iron, spritz a little of water over the piece and steam-press the interfacing to the fabric. You might want to use a press-cloth just in case some glue get onto your iron. Repeat for the other collar pieces.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
2.The same goes for the cuffs. Cut the 4 cuff pieces (sorry, only picture of 2), put them over the fabric and steam-press.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
3.Now for the button placket, cut 2 strips of interfacing of 3×39 cm (or 1,2″x15,3″). They correspond to the pattern piece A.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
4.Take your bodice front, wrong side facing up, and place the interfacing strip (glue facing down) between the marks. Steam-press. Repeat on the other side.
There you go! Wednesday we’ll actually start sewing our bodice. I remind you that you can find the schedule and the links to the previous Sew-Along posts here.
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