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sewing pattern

If you’re like me and don’t have a serger, you might want to use a cleaner finish than zig-zag stitches on your seam allowances. That’s why we’re going to see how to make french seams for the side and shoulder seams (and later on the sleeve seams) to get that nice and clean finishing touch.

 

I’ll see you on Wednesday for the sleeve part!

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I hope sewing the pin tucks was not too difficult. Remember that you can check the previous Sew-Along videos here.
Today, we’re going to see 2 tutorials:  first we’ll stitch the darts on the front bodice and join it to the yoke and then we’ll make the button placket. A little bit more work as the week-end is here!
FRONT BODICE

BUTTON PLACKET

 

I wish a very nice week-end! I’m going to enjoy the visit of my parents from France for the traditional festivities of Valencia, the Fallas.
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I can now show you the Camí dress I made for the Sew-Along! I used a floral cotton fabric and a white cotton sateen for the contrasted collar and cuffs (that’s a look I saw on a Dolce & Gabanna dress and I thought I could try to make a modest replica).
Now I really looking forward to show all your pretty dresses on the 25th…
And I remind you that there will be one lucky winner of the next pattern during the giveaway!

 

my-camy-dress-sewing-pattern-1my-camy-dress-sewing-pattern-2my-camy-dress-sewing-pattern-3my-camy-dress-sewing-pattern-4

pauline-sewing-pattern

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I guess you’re looking forward to finish your Camí dress, no? Well, with today’s step, it’s going to be almost done and you’ll be able to try it and see the overall look and fit.
We are going to sew the pockets, gather the skirt and attach it to the bodice. I don’t know about you, but for me, the perfect garment (whether it is a dress, a skirt or a jacket for example) has to have pockets. They are to practical and it’s always a cute detail to add.
DRAW THE SKIRT PIECES
1.Following the instructions, draw the 2 skirts pieces and mark the zipper opening and the pocket start and end.
If you wish to make a circle skirt, there will be a tutorial on how to draw your own circle skirt pattern on Wednesday 9th.
STITCH THE POCKETS
 cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-1
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-2
1.Match the pocket marks to the skirt marks and pin right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-32.Fold the pocket over and press the seam allowances toward the pocket.
Repeat with the other pocket on the opposite side and the two other pockets on the other skirt piece.
STITCH THE SKIRT PIECES TOGETHER

 

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-41.On the right side, match the seams of the two skirt pieces together all around the pockets, with right sides together and pin.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-52.Stitch, pivoting at the pocket angle.

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-63. If you insert a regular zipper on the left side (that’s what I will do), match the seams, pin and start stitching from the zipper mark to the hem.
If you are inserting an invisible zipper, it will be easier first to gather the skirt, attach it to the bodice, set the zipper and then close the side seam.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-7
4.Finissez les marges et repassez les poches vers le devant de la jupe.

GATHERING THE SKIRT

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-81.On the skirt waist seam, baste 3 lines of stitches at 1,5 cm, 1 cm and 0,5 cm from the egde (5/8″, 3/8″ and 1/4″).

cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-9

2.Tie the bobbin threads (the ones at the bottom) together at both end. You will pull them to gather the skirt volume.
cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-10cami-sew-along-sewing-pockets-attaching-skirt-pattern-113.Match the skirt side openings, front and back center, side seam to the corresponding bodice marks, with right sides together and pin. Gather the skirt between the marks until it fits the bodice.
When it does, stitch and finish the seam allowances (I like to bind the seam with bias).
There you go! On Wednesday we’ll see how to draw a circle skirt and how to add a lining in case your fabric needs it. Now go try your almost finished dress! And the whole Sew-Along posts are here.
pauline-sewing-pattern

 

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When I went sewing machine shopping, I knew that one of the main feature I wanted was automatic buttonholes. I love that feature!
So let’s make the buttonholes and sew the buttons on our dress today!
The buttonholes/buttons on the pictures are inversed: buttonholes should be on the right side and buttons on the left. I had to make the change because of the way the collar way standing. Please follow the instructions and sorry for the confusion.
BUTTONHOLES
cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-11.Mark the buttonholes on the right side and the buttons on the left side. Mark the buttonhole and button on the under collar as well.

cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-22.Stitch the buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.
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3.Open the buttonholes with your seam ripper. Be careful not the cut the threads!

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4.Overlap the buttonhole placket over the button placket and baste the edge. The bodice is now opened only on the left side (where we are going to insert the zipper).
Have a great week end (I’ll be having a great one at a wedding!) and see you on Monday for sewing the skirt up and attaching it to the bodice!
pauline-sewing-pattern
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I love pockets for their practicality and the detail they add to any simple design. I thought it would be nice to add an optional pocket template for the Camí dress to give it a more casual look.
Find the link to download the pocket pattern template below. Print it with NO scaling like the pattern, the seam allowances are also included in the pattern (1,5 cm or 5/8″).
cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-11.Cut your pocket piece and mark the folding lines. First, fold the seam allowances all around the pocket edges and press. You can baste or even stitch.
Fold twice the top of the pocket following the folding lines and stitch close to the fold line.

cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-22.Place the pocket over the bodice front left side and pin it matching the pocket bottom to the dart leg. Adjust the height as prefered. Mine is situated just over the bust apex.

When you are happy with the place, stitch around the pocket, leaving the pocket top open.
Are you going to add the pocket? If you have missed a step, here is the schedule.

pauline-sewing-pattern

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Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!

BODICE FRONT DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-11.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-22.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-33.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-44.Press the dart toward the center.

5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.

BODICE BACK DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-51.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-62.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.

SIDE SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-71.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-82.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-93.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).

SHOULDER SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-101.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.

BUTTON PLACKET

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-111.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-122.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-133.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.

That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!

 

pauline-sewing-pattern

 

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Edit:
I created a Camí Sew-Along flicker group so you can post pictures of your on-going project, show your fabric… But if you have any questions, better ask them here so everybody can see the answer!
And at the end of the Sew-Along, send me a picture of your finished dress and we’ll make a big finish with all your creations!
Now that you have made your muslin and the needed alterations to your pattern, it’s time to cut your fabric (after having washed and pressed previously to avoid any shrinkage).
We’ll prepare the pieces that need to be interfaced.
A word on interfacing: it should always match in weight your fabric, or be lighter. As the fabrics recommended for the Camí dress are light, use a lightweight interfacing. I like to use light weft interfacing (it’s a mix between knit and woven interfacing: it has the stability of woven interfacing but still has the drapeability of the knit). It’s available almost everywhere. Here’s a picture of how it looks (it also comes in black):
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
1. Cut your collar pieces on the interfacing: 2 under collar pieces and 2 upper collar pieces. Place them over their corresponding fabric piece, the interfacing glue facing the fabric wrong side. Take your iron, spritz a little of water over the piece and steam-press the interfacing to the fabric. You might want to use a press-cloth just in case some glue get onto your iron. Repeat for the other collar pieces.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
2.The same goes for the cuffs. Cut the 4 cuff pieces (sorry, only picture of 2), put them over the fabric and steam-press.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
3.Now for the button placket, cut 2 strips of interfacing of 3×39 cm (or 1,2″x15,3″). They correspond to the pattern piece A.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
4.Take your bodice front, wrong side facing up, and place the interfacing strip (glue facing down) between the marks. Steam-press. Repeat on the other side.
There you go! Wednesday we’ll actually start sewing our bodice. I remind you that you can find the schedule and the links to the previous Sew-Along posts here.
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Have you found your fabric for the Camí Sew-Along?

Well, you still have this week end to go shopping as today you are supposed to be making your muslin and we’ll see how to make the basic adjustments before cutting the “real” fabric.

You might be tempted to jump ahead and start directly with your final dress but it’s highly recommended to make a muslin. The bodice with one sleeve is enough to see if the fit is correct, no need for the skirt or the collar. And then you can decide if you need any of the following adjustments.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINE

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-191.If the waist line of the muslin doesn’t hit at your natural waist, you might want to lengthen or shorten the bodice. First, you’ll need to add a lengthen/shorten line. It’s not on the pattern but it can be added at the 3f mark.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-22.To lengthen the bodice, add the length you need and paste your pattern over a piece of paper, keeping the lines parallels.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-33.To shorten the bodice, bring the pieces over each other and paste.

4.Remember to report the change you made to the front bodice to the back pattern pice as well. The last button mark is going to move as well: move it up or down respecting the space between each button mark.

SHOULDER ADJUSTMENTS

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-41.Draw the seam allowance line around the armhole (1,5 cm or 5/8″).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-52.Draw the other seam allowance line at the shoulder (black). Join the shoulder center to the armhole line: red line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-63.Draw a line from the shoulder angle to the red line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-74.Cut the red lines making sure not to cut the black line. You now have a pivot point.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-8cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-95.To widen the shoulder, add the desired ease and paste over a piece of paper. To narrow the shoulder, bring the pattern pieces over and paste. Report changes on the back pattern piece.

FULL / SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-101.Draw the bust apex about 2 cm (0,8″) above the dart point.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-122.Draw 2 lines (in red) from the bust apex: one going to the middle of the dart legs and the other one  going to the armhole (I joined mine to the triangle mark).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-133.Draw a line (in green) parallel to the lengthen/shorten line if you have made it (if not, parallel to the 2f cutting line).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-154.Cut the red line up to the black armhole line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-165.Cut the green line leaving it attached by 1 cm (3/8″) approx.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-17cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-186.Cut along the lengthen/shorten line to the red line. To make a Full Bust Adjustment, add the desired ease and match the pattern pieces. Paste them on paper and redraw the lines.

To make a Small Bust Adjusment, remove the needed ease, paste together and redraw the lines.

Remember to apply the changes to the back pattern piece and move the last button mark.

pauline-sewing-pattern

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