I’ll see you on Wednesday for the sleeve part!
I’ll see you on Wednesday for the sleeve part!
2.Stitch, pivoting at the pocket angle.
GATHERING THE SKIRT
2.Stitch the buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.
3.Open the buttonholes with your seam ripper. Be careful not the cut the threads!
2.Place the pocket over the bodice front left side and pin it matching the pocket bottom to the dart leg. Adjust the height as prefered. Mine is situated just over the bust apex.
Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!
BODICE FRONT DARTS
1.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).
2.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.
3.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.
4.Press the dart toward the center.
5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.
BODICE BACK DARTS
1.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
2.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.
1.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).
2.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.
3.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).
1.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.
1.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.
2.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.
3.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.
That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!
Have you found your fabric for the Camí Sew-Along?
Well, you still have this week end to go shopping as today you are supposed to be making your muslin and we’ll see how to make the basic adjustments before cutting the “real” fabric.
You might be tempted to jump ahead and start directly with your final dress but it’s highly recommended to make a muslin. The bodice with one sleeve is enough to see if the fit is correct, no need for the skirt or the collar. And then you can decide if you need any of the following adjustments.
1.If the waist line of the muslin doesn’t hit at your natural waist, you might want to lengthen or shorten the bodice. First, you’ll need to add a lengthen/shorten line. It’s not on the pattern but it can be added at the 3f mark.
2.To lengthen the bodice, add the length you need and paste your pattern over a piece of paper, keeping the lines parallels.
3.To shorten the bodice, bring the pieces over each other and paste.
4.Remember to report the change you made to the front bodice to the back pattern pice as well. The last button mark is going to move as well: move it up or down respecting the space between each button mark.
1.Draw the seam allowance line around the armhole (1,5 cm or 5/8″).
2.Draw the other seam allowance line at the shoulder (black). Join the shoulder center to the armhole line: red line.
3.Draw a line from the shoulder angle to the red line.
4.Cut the red lines making sure not to cut the black line. You now have a pivot point.
5.To widen the shoulder, add the desired ease and paste over a piece of paper. To narrow the shoulder, bring the pattern pieces over and paste. Report changes on the back pattern piece.
FULL / SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT
1.Draw the bust apex about 2 cm (0,8″) above the dart point.
2.Draw 2 lines (in red) from the bust apex: one going to the middle of the dart legs and the other one going to the armhole (I joined mine to the triangle mark).
3.Draw a line (in green) parallel to the lengthen/shorten line if you have made it (if not, parallel to the 2f cutting line).
4.Cut the red line up to the black armhole line.
5.Cut the green line leaving it attached by 1 cm (3/8″) approx.
6.Cut along the lengthen/shorten line to the red line. To make a Full Bust Adjustment, add the desired ease and match the pattern pieces. Paste them on paper and redraw the lines.
To make a Small Bust Adjusment, remove the needed ease, paste together and redraw the lines.
Remember to apply the changes to the back pattern piece and move the last button mark.