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sewing pattern

It’s been almost two years since the last collection with multiple patterns. Last time, it was the four pieces suit: Dalt, Riola, Costera and Reig. When I design a new collection, I have two different approaches: all the patterns come to me together, like for the suit, or the collection is built over time, sometimes months, sometimes years. That’s what happened for this one.

I’ve started to design the Oratge cape about three years ago. But as I wasn’t sure I could release it alone, I kept the design on a back burner. Then the wide and masculine cut of the Tardor trousers occupied me last year and while I was looking for inspiration images, the shirt occurred to me. That’s when I thought: “now, I need a skirt to complete the capsule”. And that skirt pattern did change quite a lot during the preliminary stages, until I arrived upon the Neu skirt design. The pattern collection took quite some time to design, like you would take your time to sew it and appreciate all the little details. I’m happy to finally release this mini capsule I named “elegant functionality” that brings a simple silhouette with strong features.

Let’s start with the pretty Mestre shirt. It looks rather basic at a first glance, with a generous cut, like you’ve borrowed it from your man. Casual but chic, its originality lies in its buttoned sides, so practical for tucking the front into your pants or wearing it casually open. Mestre is buttoned on the front and on the sides, it has a shoulder yoke and asymmetrical cuffs. Its other particularity is its construction: different seam margins allow you to obtain flat-felled seams that are as neat inside as on the outside. Nothing to worry about, just follow the instructions and let yourself be guided. The Mestre shirt is available in two lengths: classic at the hips or tunic length at the knees. To make it, you have a wide choice of fabrics: poplin, flannel, linen, chambray…

The cut of the Tardor trousers makes them a key piece for all year round and especially for all occasions. A fitted waist and extra wide legs, its masculine suit pants style is supported by high-end finishes: an interior waistband with inner curtain, seams finished with bias binding, it’s beautiful! Its particularity is the side pleats which can be buttoned towards the back or the front of the pants to change the shape in no time. These are pants that adapt to all seasons: corduroy for winter, linen for summer, and for in between, nothing better than a suit wool, a twill, a flannel, crepe or viscose.

The Neu skirt is really about “function + chic” for me. Its midi length which arrives just above the ankle gives it a certain elegance, especially associated with the volume at the hem. She dances when we walk, all this movement is so pretty. But it nonetheless remains a very practical and comfortable skirt thanks to its elasticated waist at the back and tightened by a drawstring at the front (therefore very flexible at the waist) and its large cargo pockets with bellows on the sides. The construction is simple, it is recommended for an intermediate level but a motivated beginner can also get started. For fabrics, if you choose a fluid fabric like viscose or twill, your skirt will be closer to the body, while a poplin, a technical nylon fabric or any other light to medium weight stiff fabric will give more volume to your skirt.

And finally, it’s the turn of the Oratge cape. A “jacket” or rather an “overcoat” which will protect you from bad weather depending on the fabric chosen: in wool, perfect for battling  the wind and the cold, in water-repellent or waterproof fabric, the rain will not pass through. Equipped with a removable buttoned hood, the Oratge cape is available in one size. The sides are buttoned to create sleeves and its knee length protects the entire outfit well. The cape is fully lined and has welt pockets on the front and patch pockets inside.

 

The Mestre, Tardor and Neu patterns are available in European sizes 34 to 52, Oratge is available in one size. The files include detailed and illustrated instructions in French, Spanish and English and PDF patterns in A4 (print-at-home), A0 (copyshop) and projector formats. PDFs have layers by size as well as layers without seam allowances.
Find the PDF patterns for the MESTRE shirt, the TARDOR pants, the NEU skirt and the ORATGE cape in the shop. And take advantage of a special offer on the complete collection pack.
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This coat has been on the making for at least 3 years, so it’s about time I release the pattern! Come meet the ALMIRALL coat pattern!

Almirall is a long coat, semi-fitted, with a very classic and elegant look. It features a double breasted front that can be worn with the lapel folded down or fully buttoned up to fight the cold weather. The military influence is quite obvious: double rows of buttons, sharp tailoring, lots of topstitching, strong details, this a coat that stands out. However, it’s also very wearable on a daily basis made in a neutral colour. The long two piece sleeves end with a buttoned cuff and the back shows two nice details, a buttoned half belt and a buttoned vent.

When I first designed the Almirall coat, the pockets were supposed to be patch pockets with flaps and that’s it. But after speaking with a tester/friend, she insisted on a welt pocket option and I obliged.

For fabric, you can guess: wool coating is the best! From medium to heavy weight woolen, the importance is that it has enough body to keep the sharp shape of the Almirall pattern. It could also be tweed, boiled wool or even a nice weight wool gabardine (some testers made it in denim and gabardine in a trenchcoat style and it looks great as well). You also need some lining (acetate or flannel for extra warmth) and interfacing.

The Almirall coat is an advanced level pattern (there are 27 different pieces – some of them in double) and it will be a long project, not something you can whip in an afternoon. But in my opinion, it’s so rewarding later to wear a coat you took extra time and patience to make, as you might wear it everyday during winter. But if you are an adventurous intermediate, you won’t have any problem sewing this coat. You can use the patch pockets instead of the welt ones, remove some details (topstitching, cuffs, the back vent…) and still have a great coat at the end.

The PDF file includes the instructions in English, French and Spanish as well as a A4/print-at-home file, a A0/copyshop file and a projector file, all with size layers (and stitching line/no seam allowances layers). Sizes available from 34 to 52.

Get the ALMIRALL coat pattern here!

Credits:

Photos: Rosa Campos

Models: María wears a size 48 and is 1,65 m. Laura is wearing size 38 and is 1,78 m.

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This September, Pauline Alice is 10 years old! I can’t believe how fast that went… So a huge THANK YOU for accompanying me and sewing my patterns during all these years!

I thought I would celebrate this anniversary with you by sharing a new sewing pattern. Meet the ONIL blouse! A simple square neck blouse with gathered sleeves, and best of all: it’s FREE!

The pattern file includes the instructions (in English, French and Spanish), an A4 format to be printed at home, an A0 format for the printer and a now, a new projector file format!

I hope you’ll have fun making the Onil blouse yours. Feel free to modify the pattern, make it one, two or more times, change the length… Its simple shape is perfect for that: plain fabric, printed fabric, everything goes! I’m looking forward to see all your Onil blouses.

Get the Onil blouse pattern here: ONIL
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Today, not 1 but 2 patterns are coming out! I started working on the Russafa jacket last summer and very quickly the idea came to me to make a mini version for my children. When the mini collection came out, I was asked a lot for children’s sizes in addition to the baby ones.

The Russafa jacket is available in an adult version from size XS to XXL (as with Serra and Maritims, it is also suitable for men) and in a child version from size 2 to 12 years old. With its short and wide shape, it is inspired by the denim jackets of the 50s (I am thinking of the Levi’s type 1 and 2 jackets in particular). I kept the key detail of these models, the pleats on the front of the jacket, which could be unstitched to give more volume if necessary.

You will find all the details of a denim jacket in Russafa: the flat felled seams (which can just as well be changed to faux flat felled seams in the instructions), the lapel collar, the sleeve slits and its buttoned cuffs. But Russafa also has large pockets on the front, perfect for keeping your phone, keys, wallet… There is also a small patch pocket on the right side of the chest. Its back is embellished with pleats and a tightening buckle tab (only for the adult version).

For fabrics, I recommend choosing medium weight woven fabrics (non-stretch) like denim (obviously), but also gabardine, cotton canvas, corduroy . For the pockets lining, choose some  pretty cotton, plain or printed, they will be visible inside the jacket. Special jeans buttons or normal sew-on buttons, the choice is yours. An alternative to rivets is also offered in the instruction booklet.

The Russafa and Russafa mini patterns are available in PDF format in the shop. A special pack is also offered with the two patterns included at a reduced price.
The PDF files include the instructions in French, Spanish and English, the pattern in A4 and A0 formats. You will find a layer option for each size (feel free to use it to gain readability by choosing only the size(s) you are interested in) and a seam lines option (for each size as well, if you wish to sew without included seam allowances).

I hope you like these patterns, I can’t wait to see the results!

Photos: Rosa Campos

Hair and makeup: Pablo peluqueros

Fabrics and haberdashery: personal stock, Prym rivets, Pontejos buckles

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The Carme blouse pattern 2.0 is here! As it’s one of my first pattern, the sizing was not up to date, but I’m happy to tell you that you can now sew this blouse from size 34 to 52.
The pattern includes a print-at-home file as well as copyshop version. Get your copy here: Carme blouse pattern.
And now, buttons! In this tutorial, I’ll show you where to place the buttons and buttonholes. You’ll not see me actually stitch them because, 1st I didn’t have my buttons at the time, and 2nd my machine makes an automatic buttonhole in 1 step so… not really interesting.
I have seen versions of the Carme blouse with only 2 or 3 buttons on the button placket and that’s a great idea! You’ll probably never wear it buttoned-up so it’s a good way to spare buttons and go for a more relaxed look. I think I’ll do that for my next version…

Thank you so much for following this Sew-Along and I really hope you enjoyed the video tutorials. I know I had fun making them. I’m looking forward to see photos of your Carme!!!

 

 

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The Carme blouse pattern 2.0 is here! As it’s one of my first pattern, the sizing was not up to date, but I’m happy to tell you that you can now sew this blouse from size 34 to 52.
The pattern includes a print-at-home file as well as copyshop version. Get your copy here: Carme blouse pattern.
Now, let’s talk about the Sew-Along! Today is a big day as we’re going to make the entire sleeve piece. But don’t worry, there are 4 steps but each one is quite easy on its own.
Let’s begin!
SLEEVE VENT

SLEEVE TAB

SLEEVE CUFF

SET THE SLEEVE

I hope the videos are being useful and that you’re not already fed up with the jingle and my broken English (I know I am after editing the videos and watching them so much). I wish a great day and I’ll see you on Friday for the collar part of the Sew-Along.

 

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The Carme blouse pattern 2.0 is here! As it’s one of my first pattern, the sizing was not up to date, but I’m happy to tell you that you can now sew this blouse from size 34 to 52.
The pattern includes a print-at-home file as well as copyshop version. Get your copy here: Carme blouse pattern.

If you’re like me and don’t have a serger, you might want to use a cleaner finish than zig-zag stitches on your seam allowances. That’s why we’re going to see how to make french seams for the side and shoulder seams (and later on the sleeve seams) to get that nice and clean finishing touch.

 

I’ll see you on Wednesday for the sleeve part!

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I hope sewing the pin tucks was not too difficult. Remember that you can check the previous Sew-Along videos here.
Today, we’re going to see 2 tutorials:  first we’ll stitch the darts on the front bodice and join it to the yoke and then we’ll make the button placket. A little bit more work as the week-end is here!
FRONT BODICE

BUTTON PLACKET

 

I wish a very nice week-end! I’m going to enjoy the visit of my parents from France for the traditional festivities of Valencia, the Fallas.
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With its 6 different views, the Ibi dress pattern is perfect for all types of styles and interpretations. Don’t hesitate to mix the different views to create a totally unique garment. Here are some ideas:

 

BOHEMIAN

With its gathered skirt panels, the Ibi dress is super romantic and perfect for a bohemian-chic style. Choose natural colours and fabrics, floral prints and lightweight fabrics.

1/ Chambray seafoam

2/ Seersucker saffron

3/  Swiss dot grey

Source images (from left to right and top to bottom): Mariefrance.fr  /  Dosa Inc  / Matchesfashion / Pinterest

 

MIXED PRINTS

Highligth the cut and volume of the Ibi dress with mixed prints or contrasting colours. Such a great way to use your fabric remnants!

1/ Viyela wine / viyela printed / viyela curry

2/ Brick Linen / argyle linen

3/  kaki gingham / dusty pink gingham / off-white gingham

Source images (from left to right and top to bottom): Ace&Jig  /  Asos  / Pinterest / Molby The Label / Luxury Dejavu

 

PARTY

The full skirt of the Ibi dress makes it THE party dress! How about silk, viscose, beautiful prints, velvet or lurex to elevate this dress to a very chic style!

1/ Blue flowers Viscose

2/ Jacquard Moon Cosmic – Henry Henriette

3/ Storm blue needlecord

Source images (from left to right and top to bottom): Polienne /  Pinterest  / Cecilie Banhsen / AboutsomeModesens

 

What fabric have you chosen for your Ibi dress?

Get the  IBI dress pattern in the shop in print or PDF format.

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I remember showing a glimpse of what would become the Ibi dress pattern on Instagram back in March, 9 months ago. I asked if I should make a pattern from this dress I designed and you were a lot to express interest. So I started working on it and just like a baby, it’s finally here after 9 long months!

Working on the pattern, I couldn’t make up my mind on details and at the end, decided to add them all to the pattern so you would be able to make so many different versions of the dress. That’s how the Ibi dress was born.

Let’s start the presentation: the Ibi dress is a long, flowy dress, with ruffles, lots of gathers and 6 different views that can be combined to create a unique garment. The general shape is loose, with raglan sleeves and a raised bodice at the front, making the skirt slightly higher at the front hem as well. There are inseam pockets in all views but e.

View A is the most romantic version in my mind: the waist and the sleeves can be gathered with self-fabric ties and it has a 3 tiers skirt, very full and dramatic. The buttons on the back are fully funcional but if you don’t want to unbutton them, you can pull the dress on very easily as well.

Perfect for the summer, view B has double crossed straps and a 2 tiers skirt. The bodice is fully lined.

View C is the first version of the dress I designed back in March. Some classic shirt dress elements with a twist: a nice and topstitched shirt collar, a hidden button placket, long sleeves gathered into cuffs with buttons and a super full 3 tiers skirt. It’s a dress made for big impact, I just love how the sharp shirt details look with the big, twirly skirt.

The Ibi dress also includes a wrap version with a simpler skirt… but full volume sleeves! The waistband is loose and ties at the side (with a button and a thread loop inside to keep it close). For view d, the 3/4 sleeves are gathered.

For view e, I wanted to keep the volume to a minimum so lengthened the bodice and added just 1 gathered tier at the bottom. But it’s still full of lovely details: a button placket at the back and ruched sleeves gathered with self-fabric ties.

And finally, view f has a faux-wrap neckline, long sleeves with volume and a 2 tiers skirt. The neckline is finished with self-fabric bias binding.

This pattern is very versatile: with as many as 6 different views, you can create so many unique garments. All the options combined with each other: choose the neckline of one view, the sleeves of another one, add skirt tiers or change the length… There’s no end to your creativity! The loose shape is also perfect to wear all year round and accesorize with belts or different types of jackets. For example, I’ve been wearing the samples all the time since March, first breast-feeding and then pregnant (I can still wear my normal size at 8 months pregnant, it’s comfortable and I feel put together).

The Ibi dress pattern is available as printed copy and PDF download on the shop. Remember that when you buy the printed copy, you also receive the PDF automatically (so don’t worry about cutting into the pattern sheet!).

I’m coming back soon with some style and fabric inspiration but in the meantime, here’s the fabrics I used for the samples, all available at the shop:

View a: swiss dot in argyle

View b: cotton lawn – multicolour flowers

View c: printed viella (cotton twill)

View d: linen/cotton in sand

View e: needlecord in brick

View f: printed viscose – blue flowers

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ZOOM IN: ALBORS

by Pauline Alice

Let’s start the presentation of the new patterns with the Albors trousers. With two young boys, I spend my days running after them or on the floor, at home or at the park, so my dresses and skirts are gathering dust in my wardrobe. I needed a pair of trousers, comfortable and practical in all situations. Workwear as inspiration is not new for me (hello Tello jacket), so naturally, it came back when I was designing this new collection and the Albors trousers in particular.

Albors has a classic shape : a regular high waist (just below the navel), hip hugging and then straight wide legs with a cropped length.

What set it apart are the numerous pockets and topstitching : big patch pockets on the back and the front, tool pockets on the side and hammer loop on the other. The curved waistband also has some buttoned tabs. And you can choose between a button fly or zip fly, the booklet comes with both instructions.

I think Albors is a great basic pair of trousers : with or without all the pockets, contrasting or matching topstitching, zip or button fly, it has everything!

As for fabric, you should look for medium weight fabric with body : cotton canvas, gabardine, denim, corduroy… and most importantly, have fun with the topstitching!

Here, Maria is wearing a size 38, made in off-white cotton canvas (available soon) with contrasting topstitching.

The Albors trousers pattern is available in sizes 34-52 in the shop in print and PDF.
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It took more time than I thought it would but the new collection is finally here! Let’s take a look at the Albors trousers, the Maritims pullover and the Calvari dress.

I started designing these patterns when we were confined and I guess it reflects my need of horizons, fresh air and freedom. I wanted clothes I could wear outside, for all weather, that can be worn through the day for different activities, outdoors or indoors. And Rosa, the photograph, understood that perfectly, it shows in the pictures don’t you think ? Here’s a short description of the patterns :

Albors is a classic pair of trousers inspired by workwear (painter’s or carpenter’s trousers) with a wide leg and high waist. What sets it apart : the multipurpose pockets, so handy !

The Maritims pullover will be perfect for all outdoors activities : fully lined, you can pull it on easily thanks to the zipped opening and high buttoned collar.

The Calvari dress is casual but with lots of character. The shirt dress with its notched collar, buttonband and pockets is classic and ideal all year round.

I hope you liked this preview, you can find the patterns in the shop in print and PDF format: Albors, Maritims and Calvari.
See you very soon with some posts on each pattern, fabric inspirations and tutorials.
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