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Sleeve width adjustment
Today we’ll see how to adjust sleeve width.
I received some emails recently about how to increase the width of the Xerea dress sleeves and I thought it would be nice to prepare a tutorial. This is something you can apply to every “one piece” sleeves.
tuto sleeveMethod 1.
Trace two perpendicular lines accross the sleeve: one from armhole bas to armhole base and the other from the sleeve cap to the hem (in red here).
Cut along these lines and spread the sides apart, making sure the bases are still touching at the extremities. Add the cm you need in the center and tape together your new sleeve piece. The good thing about this method is that the sleeve armhole is not modified.Method 2.
On one side of the sleeve, trace a line perpendicular to the grainline starting from the armhole base and about 4-5 cm long (about 2″). From this point, draw a perpendicular line to the hem. Repeat on the other side.
Cut along the lines you just traced and slash the piece away from the sleeve the extra cm you need. Tape together and redraw the sleeve curve if needed. With this method, you’ll add width to the sleeve as well as to the sleeve armhole. You’ll need to ease the sleeve more.I hope that was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions.
PS: by the way, the sleeve width on the larger sizes of the Xerea dress has been increased for the PDF pattern.

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How to sew Sleeves – Carme Sew-Along
First, let’s sart with some beautiful Carme blouses made by two lovely french seamstresses: Annie Coton‘s beautiful dark blue blouse and Sandra’s romantic swiss dot Carme. Please be sure to check their wonderful versions, it will surely inspire you (as well as they amazing blogs, I sure know as I’ve spent sooo much time browsing through their archives and admiring their stylish handmade wardrobe).
Now, let’s talk about the Sew-Along! Today is a big day as we’re going to make the entire sleeve piece. But don’t worry, there are 4 steps but each one is quite easy on its own.
Let’s begin!
SLEEVE VENT

SLEEVE TAB

SLEEVE CUFF

SET THE SLEEVE

I hope the videos are being useful and that you’re not already fed up with the jingle and my broken English (I know I am after editing the videos and watching them so much). I wish a great day and I’ll see you on Friday for the collar part of the Sew-Along.

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Version B – Making the Cuffs
I hope you had a nice strong cup of coffee or tea this morning as today’s post is a tough one! Let’s begin!
STITCH THE CUFF
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-11.Take your two cuff pieces, already interfaced and place them with right side together. Make sure the opening is marked (I drew only the slit but you can draw the whole box as in the pattern, it’s easier).
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2.Pin and stitch the cuff, pivoting around the opening. It’s best to use a short length stitch (I used nº 2 for example).

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3.Cut carefully the opening between the stitches. At the end, cut a V-shape the closest possible to the stitch line to the angles like in the picture. Be careful not to cut the stitches!

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs4

4.Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners very close to the angles.

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5.Open the cuff and pin together the side seams, with right side together. No need to turn the cuff inside out. Stitch.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs66.Press the seam open.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs77.Turn the cuff inside out and press.
JOIN THE CUFF TO THE SLEEVE

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs8cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs9cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs10
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs111. Now comes the tricky step: matching the cuff seam and the sleeve seam, pin the cuff inside the sleeve hem. Look carefully at the pictures and try before sewing. We will stitch the cuff like we would stitch bias binding. So the cuff right side is against the sleeve wrong side (believe me, try it! I inserted my first cuff on the wrong side.) When you have pinned it, stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs12cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs132. Take the cuff out of the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-143. Topstitch!

4. And repeat on the other side of course… What do you think? Easy or difficult?

pauline-sewing-pattern

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Setting the Sleeves In
How is the Sew-Along going? You have been able to try your bodice now and we are now going to make the sleeves and set them in the armhole. This step is the same for A and B version, but I chose the 3/4 sleeve length for the tutorial. If you’re making the short sleeve version, it’s exactly the same.
MARK YOUR FABRIC

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-1cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-21.The first step is to make sure you have marked your fabric correctly. Take your sleeve piece and check that you have marked: the dots for easing, the top center, the two marks indicating the back and the one mark indicating the front. Those are important in order not to set the wrong sleeve in the wrong armhole!

SLEEVE SIDE SEAM
I thought it would be a good idea to show you a new technic at the same time so I made French Seams on the sleeve side seam. I love this technic as it’s so clean and professional (and so easy!). Do you use it?

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-31.With WRONG sides together, pin the sleeve sides.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-4

2.Stitch at 0,6 cm (about 1/4″) from the border. To help you, this is usually the width of your regular foot. What I do is just align my presser foot to the edge of my fabric like on the picture and stitch maintaining my presser foot on the edge.

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3.Trim your seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Press the seam on one side, it’s not important which one.

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-64.Turn over, with wrong sides out and press the seam flat.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-75.Stitch the side seam again at 0,6 cm (1/4″) or the presser foot width. You will be enclosing the seam allowances, creating a clean finition. Press the seam to one side.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-8SET THE SLEEVE IN

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-91.With a long basting stitch, ease the sleeve head from one dot to the other.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-102.Match the markings (center, front and back) from the sleeve to the bodice.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-113.When they match, pin and ease the fabric excess of the sleeve head with the basting bobin thread, making sure there is no pleats. When it fits perfectly, pin everything (don’t be afraid to over-pin!).

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-12cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-134.Stitch around the armhole. Make sure there are no pleats at the sleeve head.
5.Stitch another row of stitches between the first line and the edge from the front marking to the back marking. This secong row add strength to the armhole. Trim and finish your seam allowances as prefered (I binded mines with bias binding). Repeat all the steps for the other sleeve.
That’s it for today! If you are making the short sleeve version, you just to hem your sleeves and you’re done! For the cuffs, let’s continue on Monday. Have a great week end!
And if you missed one step, here they are.
pauline-sewing-pattern
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