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undercollar

ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-5
Hello! Are you ready for the last Ninot jacket Tutorial?
I remind you that we saw previously how to make a bound buttonhole, the buttonhole opening on the facing and the welt pocket (click on the link to see the tutorial). Let’s start!
 
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 1.Apply interfacing to the under collar piece (here I have interfaced both to give more strength to my fabric, but you should interface only the undercollar with both interfacing pieces). Cut a piece of interfacing to form the collar roll, it should look like the bottom collar piece in the picture. This become your under collar and the other piece is then the upper collar.

 

ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-22.Take the under collar piece and trim about 2 – 3 mm (2/16″ – 1/8″) from the outer edge. This will account for the turn of cloth and keep the stitching line from showing.
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-3ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-43.Shape the under collar around your dress form if you have one (if you don’t you can use a folded towel about the size of your neck). Fold gently around the collar roll and pin in place. Steam the collar and leave it cool down at least a few hours (a full night is better).
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-5ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-64.After the under collar is completely dry, pin it to the jacket shell matching center back and front marks. Stitch. Trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk.
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5.Take the front and back facing pieces and interface them. Match the shoulder seams, pin and stitch together. Press the seam allowances open.
ninot-tutorial-collar-facing-sewing-pattern-96.Pin the upper collar to facing, matching center back and front marking. Stitch. Trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk
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7.Pin the facing to the jacket like you would do for a normal jacket, pinning also the collars together. The under collar is slightly smaller than the upper collar because we trimmed it, so you will have to ease it a little bit while pinning them together. Start stitching from the center of the collar and stitch down to the collar end. Repeat on the other side. Then stitch the facings corners.
Clip and trim the seam allowances to reduce excessive bulk, especially where the collar meets the jacket.
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8.Here is the turn of cloth: see how the stitching line is kept under the collar? Press it flat nicely.
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9.The finished collar! And as the facing is stitched to the jacket, now is the moment to finish your buttonholes and handstitch the opening to the buttonhole.
I hope the tutorials were useful for the confection of the Ninot jacket or any other jacket by the way.
Have a wonderful week end!
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Camí Sew-Along: Interfacing the Collar, Cuffs and Button Placket
Edit:
I created a Camí Sew-Along flicker group so you can post pictures of your on-going project, show your fabric… But if you have any questions, better ask them here so everybody can see the answer!
And at the end of the Sew-Along, send me a picture of your finished dress and we’ll make a big finish with all your creations!
Now that you have made your muslin and the needed alterations to your pattern, it’s time to cut your fabric (after having washed and pressed previously to avoid any shrinkage).
We’ll prepare the pieces that need to be interfaced.
A word on interfacing: it should always match in weight your fabric, or be lighter. As the fabrics recommended for the Camí dress are light, use a lightweight interfacing. I like to use light weft interfacing (it’s a mix between knit and woven interfacing: it has the stability of woven interfacing but still has the drapeability of the knit). It’s available almost everywhere. Here’s a picture of how it looks (it also comes in black):
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
1. Cut your collar pieces on the interfacing: 2 under collar pieces and 2 upper collar pieces. Place them over their corresponding fabric piece, the interfacing glue facing the fabric wrong side. Take your iron, spritz a little of water over the piece and steam-press the interfacing to the fabric. You might want to use a press-cloth just in case some glue get onto your iron. Repeat for the other collar pieces.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
2.The same goes for the cuffs. Cut the 4 cuff pieces (sorry, only picture of 2), put them over the fabric and steam-press.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
3.Now for the button placket, cut 2 strips of interfacing of 3×39 cm (or 1,2″x15,3″). They correspond to the pattern piece A.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
4.Take your bodice front, wrong side facing up, and place the interfacing strip (glue facing down) between the marks. Steam-press. Repeat on the other side.
There you go! Wednesday we’ll actually start sewing our bodice. I remind you that you can find the schedule and the links to the previous Sew-Along posts here.
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How to Sew a Shirt Collar
How about a little step by step today?
I thought I would take photos while sewing the classic men shirt I made for my boyfriend in order to explain some tricky steps.
I mean the first shirt I made, I was terrified of sewing a collar, sleeve plackets and cuffs. And at the end they were not so difficult to sew once you knew the important steps.
Here are the important steps to follow when sewing a classic shirt collar:
1 copia1. These are your 4 collar pieces: 2 undercollar (which will be attached to the rest of the shirt) and 2 uppercollar (which fold over the tie for example). You need to interface the 4 pieces.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
2. Take the 2 uppercollar pieces and with right sides together, pin them together like on the picture. Set the stitch length to 2 or 2,5 for more strength. Stitch following the red line, pivoting at the corner. Cut the seam allowance close to the stitch line and cut the angles in bias.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
3. Turn right side out and press flat. Be careful when turning the collar points!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
4. Take your first undercollar piece and matching the center and marks, pin it to one layer of the uppercollar like on the picture. The collar stays open.
5 copia (1)5. Stitch the undercollar to the layer of uppercollar following the red line from mark to mark (they depend of your pattern, but they should be more or less where the red line start).
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
6. It’s not easy to locate the collar to stitch, so just a picture to show you.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
7. Repeat the steps 4 and 5 for the other undercollar piece. Pin it to the other uppercollar layer and stitch.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
8. This is what you have now: the undercollar and the uppercollar are joined together between the marks. The ends of the undercollar pieces are free.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
9. From the mark, stitch the undercollar pieces together following the red line. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching lines or clip the curve.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
10. Turn right side out and press flat. Look how nice it looks already!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
11. If we open it, this is how it looks. It is best to cut your seam allowances with different length to avoid markings on the outside of the fabric when pressing.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
12. Almost done! Now take your shirt and baste around the neckline (sorry, my thread is very matchy, almost invisible. But there is a red arrow.). Clip around the neckline.
15 copia13. Matching the center and the extremities, pin the collar to the shirt. Stitch first the inside layer like you would for bias biding. Press the seam allowance toward the collar. Fold in the seam allowance of the other layer, pin and stitch with a topstitch very close to the edge (see the arrows). Continue the topstitching around the whole collar.
This is it! I hope it was useful and I will be back very soon with the next step by step on sleeve cuffs with placket.
This week end, I’ll try to take pictures of the photographer with his new shirt 🙂
Have a nice end of the week.
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