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The Dior coat

12 November, 2012
The Dior coat

I am glad to present The Dior coat in all its spendour:

pink Dior coat side view Dior coat full view

I designed the pattern myself from a princess seam slopper I did for the scallop coat I made in october.
The idea was to accentuate the waist and have a full skirt like the type of coats popular in the late 40’s, early 50’s. I also had some contempory inspiration but even those were based on retro models.

Earlier this year, I purchased an e-course on Craftsy called the Starlet Suit Jacket (sorry, I can’t link it, it appears to have disappeared from the classes availables). The course focuses on sewing a fitted jacket with hand-tailoring (or fusible-tailoring), using bound-buttonholes. welt pockets, and other vintage/tailoring technics.

I mostly bought this class because the instructor was Gretchen Hirsch, whose blog I religiously follow and whose book I bought and devoured. The woman is so passionate about vintage technics, her style is very close to mine and I love the fact that she is self taught (by that I mean that she has not been to fashion school, because she obviously has been to a lot of sewing classes with the crème de la crème of US sewing teachers).

Anyway, the craftsy class was great and I learnt so much from Gertie while sewing my coat. I even took the welt pocket pattern from her jacket and added it to my coat as I found it very elegant and I wanted to included as much technics as I could. I fear those technics are disappearing and that’s a shame as no machine will ever be able to make such beautiful and delicate buttonholes for example. Go to any store and try to find a jacket or a coat with bound-buttonholes, that might be mission impossible (or they will be very expensive).

pink Dior coat front details

I interfaced the front, the side front and the facing with weft fusible interfacing. I wasn’t feeling confident enough to do the whole hand tailoring method for the moment and I was also afraid it would take me months instead of weeks. And as my wool was very thick, the interfacing was just for shaping, not for supporting the fabric. So I am very happy with the fusible method. But next time, I definitely want to try the hand-tailoring method.

I wanted the shoulders to be structured without giving me crazy swimmer back. In the craftsy class, Gertie explains how to use biais cut mohair strips to consolidate the sleeve cap and give structure in the sleeve head, that technic is often used on tailored jackets and coats and it works wonderfully. I also added small shoulder pads.

As I might have repeated thousands of times, the fabric is pure double face wool from Dior in fuschia. It is very heavy, the coat has to weigh about 3 kg! But it feels so luxurious, even more when you get a peek of the bright fuschia silk lining (sorry, I realise we didn’t take any pictures of the lining). There were some moments I thought my sewing machine was going to die from the thickness of the fabric. Imagine sewing the seam allowances where you have 4 layers… a nightmare! But Elna survived! Good girl!

pink dior coat back
I am very happy and proud of the work I have done with this coat. I love a fast sewing project like a little dress or skirt that you can wear the following day but spending hours and hours on a project like this one is rewarding in a different way. I have learnt a lot in terms of sewing technics and for me that’s so much as I am self taught.

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Mamie 12 November, 2012 - 12:33 pm

Il est magnifique ! Le patron est parfait… les découpes princesse, les boutonnières… les poches !! C'est vraiment très impressionnant

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 12:52 pm

Merci beaucoup. Il faut dire que j'y ai passé du temps… Mais ça en valait la peine.

Luz Marina 12 November, 2012 - 12:39 pm

Hola hace poquito que sigo tu blog, y me encanta! este abrigo es un sueño, preciosas las líneas y precioso el color, nada como dar alegria al invierno, además de estiloso y elegante se le ve calentito, ¿qué más se puede pedir?



Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 1:06 pm

Calentito si que es. Todavía no me lo puedo poner, que pena…
Gracias Luz.

mokosha 12 November, 2012 - 12:40 pm

it's freaking amazing! i lovelovelove it.. well worth every second you've spent working on it

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 1:08 pm

Thank you. I am glad you like it.

La Petite Planèthé 12 November, 2012 - 1:19 pm

Oh Pauline! Te ha quedado genial! Yo quiero uno, aunque no sea con tela de Dior ;P

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 1:32 pm

Gracias Gloria, pero con el tiempo que me ha costado, creo que voy a esperar unos añitos antes de hacer otro…

Donna 12 November, 2012 - 1:19 pm

C'est absolument magnifique – bravo!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 1:32 pm

Merci Donna!

Masustak eguzkitan 12 November, 2012 - 1:23 pm

Joe Pauline qué bonito, menuda envidia que me das!!! Te juro que si viera ese abrigo en alguna tienda me lo compraba, me encanta. La foto de la parte de atrás es una pasada, te hace una figura muy delicada y luego la caida que tiene es impresionante! Se nota que lo has hecho con cariño y paciencia, muy buen trabajo!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 1:35 pm

Muchisimas gracias Maider. Así es, con cariño y paciencia, tienes razón. He tenido que retocar la caida un par de veces pero ahora esta perfecta. Da una figura victoriana, casí parece que tengo un corsé,¡que gracioso!

Sonia Fonseca 12 November, 2012 - 1:48 pm

SIN PALABRAS!!,bueno si… que tengo palabras, por donde empiezo???.-
Pauline, este abrigo yo creo que en este momento, te ha hecho alcanzar la cima de una de tus metas costuriles, estoy segura y encima empleando la tela de Dior!!. Es un abrigo PRECIOSO, DIVINO de la muerte!!!. Te lo has trabajado muy muy mucho y se nota…
Me repito, me parece precioso..
Besitos Pauline!!!.

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 2:16 pm

Muchisimas gracias Sonia. Me alegro que te gusta.

dottiedoodle 12 November, 2012 - 1:58 pm

Absolutely beautiful, and it suits you so well!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 2:17 pm

Thank you Dottie.

Leti BloggingySoffing 12 November, 2012 - 2:14 pm

Estas hecha una artista! El abrigo es precioso y muy elegante y el tema de mary. Poppins le va genial, muy origianl!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 2:21 pm

Gracias Leti. Lo de Mary Poppins fue de casualidad. Un poco de lluvia, un paragua, y supercalifragilisticexpialidocious…

Hana 12 November, 2012 - 3:45 pm

This is stunning. I hope some day to be able to make something beautiful as your coat:))))

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 8:40 pm

Thanks Hana.

JBB 12 November, 2012 - 4:20 pm

Ce manteau est magnifique et les heures de tavail sont récompensées par le résultat:couleur,ligne,détails…tout y est!
Cela m'a fait penser à un manteau chiné que ma maman m'avait confectionné quand j'étais au lycée….a few years ago!
Félicitations de Folie de Mode.

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 8:42 pm

Merci beaucoup. J'espère bien profiter de ce manteau pendant de longues années…

Mela R. 12 November, 2012 - 5:12 pm

Absolutely gorgeous!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 8:43 pm

Thanks Mela.

Jeyco 12 November, 2012 - 6:17 pm

Your coat is fantastic!! It looks great on you. I especially like the shot you are leaning on the tree!

madebysoph 12 November, 2012 - 6:26 pm

Tout simplement magnifique. Bravo!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 8:43 pm


Nettie 12 November, 2012 - 7:02 pm

This is unbelievable!! I don't blame you for taking a ton of pictures!!

Pauline 12 November, 2012 - 8:44 pm

Thank you Nettie.

Anonymous 12 November, 2012 - 8:53 pm

absolument magnifique !!!!Il te va à merveille .
De plus,ton photographe va devenir "pro" lui aussi.

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:05 am

Merci! Je passerai le compliment au photographe!

Merche Martinez 12 November, 2012 - 11:11 pm

Que te puedo decir, Pauline, una obra maestra. Se nota todo el cariño y la dedicación que has puesto en tu abrigo. Precioso, y los botones, bueno,bueno, de película. ¿Es la primera vez que lo haces? Yo tengo que aprender ya!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:01 am

Gracias Merche. Si, es la primera vez y creo que voy a esperar un par de años antes de repetir…Pero vale la pena!

Molly Katherine Harries 12 November, 2012 - 11:23 pm

AMAZING! AMAZING! AMAZING! I can't say it enough times! this is everything I have ever wanted in a coat – you must just be over the moon! its so perfect and what clean lines. The pictures are adorable too. Great work!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:02 am

Thanks Molly! I am sure that style would suit you so perfectly, you should try.

Mari Cruz 12 November, 2012 - 11:24 pm

Pauline, es una preciosidad de abrigo, todo el tiempo que has invertido en el ha valido la pena y bien merece todas estas fotos. ¡Qué gran trabajo!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:03 am

Gracias Mari Cruz.

Ruffles Gazebo 13 November, 2012 - 1:28 am

beautiful! the colour i great, the shape is awesome, and it looks so beautifully made!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:04 am


Rosi 13 November, 2012 - 1:34 am

Wow! This coat is stunning and looks like you will have it forever.

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:04 am

Thanks Rosi, I hope I will…

thewallinna 13 November, 2012 - 4:52 am

Perfection is a lot of tiny things done well. That's what happened to your coat 😉 You look absolutely gorgeous in it! You've done amazing job! Congrats 😉

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 8:04 am

Thank you so much.

Maggot 13 November, 2012 - 9:03 am

Ce manteau est juste incroyable !!! Sublime !!
J'aurai bien aimé voir la doublure aussi 🙂
En tout cas bravo !!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 3:15 pm

Merci Maggot. Je vais faire une photo de la doublure, promis.

Anilegra 13 November, 2012 - 11:01 am

Anilegra Moda Para Muñecas

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 6:52 pm


Lizzy 13 November, 2012 - 5:31 pm

WOOOOOW!!!!!!!!!!!! te quedo espectacular! la forma total de un Dior!!!, me hubiera gustado que nos mostraras algunos pasos de como lo fuiste haciendo, todo te quedo perfecto! los ojales, la forma, todo! estoy segura que si comercializas el patron se vendería!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 6:54 pm

Gracias Lizzy. Mientras lo estaba cosiendo, pensé en hacer unas fotos pero al final se me olvido. Es una pena porque me gusta ver como se hacen las cosas. La próxima vez espero…

Madalynne 13 November, 2012 - 5:45 pm

Wow! To say that you did a great job would be an understatement. I love the Dior coat and I love the Mary Poppins look. It was definitely well worth the weeks spent on this project!

Pauline 13 November, 2012 - 6:59 pm

Thanks Maddy! I can proudly say that it is the most beautiful garment and it was worth the time catch-stitching all the seam-allowances by hand.

Kocotte 13 November, 2012 - 9:22 pm

superbe, du haut de gamme et de la haute couture pour ce manteau qui met beaucoup de gaieté lorsque le ciel est gris

Marie-Noëlle Lafosse 14 November, 2012 - 9:27 am

Bravo pour cette magnifique réalisation, la ligne est superbe surtout de dos et de profil. On voit que le tissu est de très belle qualité. So Ispirational !!!

Pauline 14 November, 2012 - 7:24 pm

Merci Marie-Noëlle et Kocotte pour vos commentaires. J'attends avec impatience que les températures baissent pour pouvoir le porter.

ana5059 14 November, 2012 - 7:56 pm

Muchas felicidades!! Este era un proyecto muy ambicioso pero lo has conseguido, has aprendido mucho y el resultado es espectacular. Las fotos me encantan, sobre todo esa bajo el árbol con el paraguas en el suelo.
Espero que disfrutes mucho de tu abrigo!!

Momita DIY 14 November, 2012 - 10:48 pm

Que guapisima y que bien te ha quedado el abrigo!!!


Elise Lin 15 November, 2012 - 4:33 pm

Beautiful coat! It looks very warm as well, well done!

Pauline 16 November, 2012 - 6:45 pm

Gracias guapa. Ya había visto las fotos. Y tu ¡3 fotos, nada menos! ¡Felicidades!

Tia Dia 17 November, 2012 - 9:42 pm

OMG! This is just stunning! EIGHT bound buttonholes and welts. In a double-faced wool! I can just hear poor Elna groaning. Beautiful beautiful coat!

astérOÏde 19 November, 2012 - 9:05 pm

MAGNIFIIIQUE!!! Une vraie splendeur ton manteau!
Bravo pour le patron perso!

Pauline 20 November, 2012 - 7:24 am

Merci beaucoup!

Adrienne 20 November, 2012 - 5:43 am

Merci pour le commentaire sur mon blogue! OMG, je viens de découvrir ton blogue et tu as une nouvelle fan! Ton manteau est INCROYABLE. Je ne peux pas croire que tu as fait le patron toi-même. L'exécution est parfaite!
adrienne de allstyleandallsubstance.com

Pauline 20 November, 2012 - 7:31 am

Merci Adrienne, je suis très contente d'avoir laissé un commentaire et découvert ton univers. Tu peux être sûre que je vais continuer à faire un tour sur ton blog 🙂

fleurdelis 20 November, 2012 - 6:28 am

tout simplement parfait !!!

Pauline 20 November, 2012 - 7:33 am

Merci Fleurdelis!

SanPini 20 November, 2012 - 8:26 am

Estás increíble, te ha quedado perfecto. No se le puede poner ni un solo pero, simplemente espectacular.

Evie Jones 25 November, 2012 - 7:27 pm

Oh my goodness…this coat is exquisite. Dior would be proud! So beautiful and I love, love, love the styling. When I'm a grown up I want to be able to sew this well! Congratulations.

Lorena Calabuig Embiz 29 November, 2012 - 10:14 am

A merecido la pena la espera es un abrigo magnífico!!!! Que bonito por dios, y esto nunca lo encuentras en tiendas a buen precio, y tu lo has creado!!! IMPRESIONANTE!!! Un beso artistaza!!!

Lorena Calabuig Embiz 29 November, 2012 - 10:18 am

Cuanto más lo miro más me gusta, no puedo dejar de admirar la calidad del resultado final!!! MI mas sincera enhorabuena, por ese trabajo!!!! Muaka

Pauline 30 November, 2012 - 8:02 pm

Muchisimas gracias Lorena! Estoy aprovechando mi abrigo ahora que han bajado las temperaturas. Abriga un montón y el color da mucha alegria, es perfecto 🙂

MONICA 4 December, 2012 - 11:28 am

Espectacular, me encanta. El corte, la tela, el color, lo tiene todo.
Te felicito por este gran trabajo.

My name is Peggy Sue 8 February, 2014 - 9:52 pm

Hola! Enamorada sin fin de este abrigo!! Besos mil!!

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