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Serra coat variation

by Pauline Alice

I love sewing coats, that’s not a secret. Not that I need an excuse to make one but I don’t wear coats that much in Spain. But this time, I had a very good excuse to make one indeed. See, I have my dark blue Quart coat, light blue Hemisféric coat and pink self-drafted coat in pretty good conditions but I can’t close them anymore. They are all rather fitted at the waist and for this winter, I needed a coat… not so fitted.



One of my inspiration for the Serra jacket pattern was a Balmaccan coat by the british brand S.E.H. Kelly. I love the classic shape, raglan sleeves, beautiful collar and topstitching. Looking through coat patterns, I remembered this one and decided on using the Serra jacket with a few changes to make it.

I chose View C as a starting point as it has so much similarities: the collar, the cuff button tabs, the length. The first change I made was lengthening it about 40 cm as I wanted a long coat that goes to mid-calf, almost ankle length. But because of the length, I knew a back vent would be easier to walk. So I added a back seam and drafted a vent for both the main fabric and the lining. I left off the wind shields and changed the shaped welt pockets for classic rectangular ones. Other than that, it’s the same pattern and I used the same instructions (only adding the back vent).

For the main fabric, I chose a heavy wool from Pretty Mercerie in camel (out of stock but similar here). I interfaced the facings, collars, armhole edges, pocket placements and hem. I just received my new sewing machine (juki DX-2000) and I was so happy with how well she sewed through multiple layers of heavy wool. Even the buttonholes were great! I used topstitching to give a little detail to an otherwise very plain coat.


I’ve been wearing it these past few weeks and I love it. Most of all, I love that it buttons close! I’m looking forward to wear it all winter and the next ones.

I’d also like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! May 2020 be good with you!

PS: yes, 2020 will bring another baby into our family! Another boy!

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Marie-Christine Berges 20 December, 2019 - 5:35 pm

Magnifique réalisation et félicitations pour tous vos manteaux trop petits pour 2?

Lesley Scott 25 December, 2019 - 11:44 pm

Huge congratulations on your baby to be, have a wonderful birth and a restful postnatal period. Xx

Sarah 30 December, 2019 - 12:34 pm


Nicole 15 April, 2020 - 3:59 pm

This coat is beautiful! Would you ever consider creating a PDF add-on for the Serra pattern, to make it easier to adapt into a full length winter coat? I dream of sewing up a coat just like this, but I’m not confident enough in my sewing abilities to hack it on my own. If you ever publish this, I’d be first in line!

Pauline Alice 15 May, 2020 - 5:15 pm

Hi Nicole,
As this pattern is fully lined, you could totally use any of its versions for a winter coat. I made one myself, changing only the length: https://www.paulinealice.com/serra-coat-variation/


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