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saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

The day I release new patterns is always stressful, and today is no exception! During the last months, I’ve been working very hard on these 3 new patterns and I’m so happy (and a little bit anxious) to introduce you to the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket!

These 3 patterns have been designed as a mini collection: each piece can be worn individualy or as a complete outfit. Depending on the version and the fabric you choose, they can all be dressed-up or casual. I wanted classic pieces but with a twist, easy to wear on a daily basis or for a special occasion and that can be mixed with lots of other garments.

Reina shirt pattern versions

The Reina shirt was inspired by Victorian blouses, with loops fastenings and high cuffs. Wide, with a longer back and deep V-neckline, it can be worn with a skirt or pants quite easily.
There are two options: View A has a tie collar and long sleeves whereas View B is perfect for summer days with short sleeves, mandarin collar and small pockets.

Safor skirt pattern 2 versions

A faux-wrap skirt, the Safor skirt is very modern yet has a classic feel. With the yoke following the body curves and two lengths option, it’s versatile, elegant and confortable.

saler jacket pattern in white and kaki

saler jacket with safor skirt and reina shirt

Finally, the Saler jacket will be perfect all year-round and it just goes with everything. Classic tailored shape with princess seams, flap pockets and two pieces sleeves with button vent, it’s the perfect challenge for seamstresses.

You can find the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket in the shop!

I hope you’ll like these new patterns and I’ll be coming back during the week end and next week with details on each pattern.

Fabric credits: all fabrics are from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine.

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Juliette shirt RDC
juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-1The Juliette shirt is the second RDC pattern I make and it’s as good as the first! Last month I made the Juliette shirt pattern and only had time to take pictures last week. But I’ve been wearing it quite a lot during the summer.
From the moment I saw the collection preview on Instagram, I knew I was going to order and sew this shirt. I loved the styling (I like to wear it tied up as well) and I was lacking some tops in my wardrobe.
juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-2juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-3The only change I made was to shorten the shirt as I wanted more of a cropped style. As for the Dominique jumper, I could have gone one size smaller but it’s ok.
The fabric is cotton from my local shop: I really liked the tribal stripes.
I found the pattern easy to make and instructions are detailled. I’m planning on make more…
juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-5juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-4I’m wearing it with an Alameda skirt in neoprene (I need more Alamedas!).

juliette-shirt-rdc-sewing-pattern-6pauline-sewing-pattern

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Maxi Camí

For the last couple of years, every summer has been filled with weddings and it can become quite difficult not to repeat outfits when you don’t want to buy (or in my case, make!) a new dress for every occasion. But at the same time, I love weddings and the opportunity to dress up and wear something with a little bit of extra glamour for one night.

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So this is what I wore at 2 weddings this summer, one in France and one here in Valencia last week-end. I took this picture just before leaving for the reception and I’m so embarrased at the horribly wrinkled skirt (the fabric doesn’t press well to my defence).

On a side note, I wore my multicolor Alameda to 1 wedding and a dark blue jumpsuit to 2 weddings. And I still have 1 to go in November so if you have any idea…feel free because I’m quite at a loss as to what to make! Yes 6 weddings just this year!

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I used my Cami dress pattern for the bodice and sleeves. I made the 3/4 sleeves without the cuffs and just rolled the ends. As you can see, I just stitched 3 buttons on the bodice as I wanted the neckline to stay open quite low. I didn’t make any other changes to the original pattern.

For the skirt, I drafted a long half-circle skirt with a little bit of gathers at the waist. It took a lot of fabric but the way it flows and moves when I walk is absolutely perfect. And of course I added the pockets from the Camí dress, so practical!

The back is cut on the fold while the front is in two pieces, that way I extended the button placket til mid-thigh. I have to say I had some “Angelina Jolie’s leg” moments 😉

I also made a sash/belt folding the fabric in two. I debated about a contrasting leather belt but at the end, I liked the look of the fabric one better: I think it elongated my petite frame.

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I had a very specific shade of pink in mind for this dress: I call it “capote” pink. “Capote” in spanish is the name of the bullfighting cape, it’s a bright fuscia colour usually with yellow lining. I didn’t go with the yellow lining but I found this twill with peach skin finish in the right shade on sales. The price was really low (I also suspect that it’s because it was a blend) so I grabbed 4m.

I hope you like this variation and that you’ll try it! It’s very easy (you only need a good yardage!) and it makes a dress easy to wear and with impact!

Have a great week! I’ll be in Vicenza for the Abilmente Fair, come say hello if you’re there!

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How to sew Sleeves – Carme Sew-Along
First, let’s sart with some beautiful Carme blouses made by two lovely french seamstresses: Annie Coton‘s beautiful dark blue blouse and Sandra’s romantic swiss dot Carme. Please be sure to check their wonderful versions, it will surely inspire you (as well as they amazing blogs, I sure know as I’ve spent sooo much time browsing through their archives and admiring their stylish handmade wardrobe).
Now, let’s talk about the Sew-Along! Today is a big day as we’re going to make the entire sleeve piece. But don’t worry, there are 4 steps but each one is quite easy on its own.
Let’s begin!
SLEEVE VENT

SLEEVE TAB

SLEEVE CUFF

SET THE SLEEVE

I hope the videos are being useful and that you’re not already fed up with the jingle and my broken English (I know I am after editing the videos and watching them so much). I wish a great day and I’ll see you on Friday for the collar part of the Sew-Along.

 

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Front Bodice and Button placket – Carme Sew-Along
I hope sewing the pin tucks was not too difficult. Remember that you can check the previous Sew-Along videos here.
Today, we’re going to see 2 tutorials:  first we’ll stitch the darts on the front bodice and join it to the yoke and then we’ll make the button placket. A little bit more work as the week-end is here!
FRONT BODICE

BUTTON PLACKET

 

I wish a very nice week-end! I’m going to enjoy the visit of my parents from France for the traditional festivities of Valencia, the Fallas.
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How to sew a Shirt Sleeve Placket and Cuff
Hello! How would you like to continue the shirt tutorial?
Another step I found difficult when sewing my first shirt was the sleeve placket and the cuff. I wanted it to look nice and tidy like the ones I had from the store but I couldn’t figure out how to make it. And the pattern from Burda I was using didn’t have easy explanations, hem hem 🙂
So after many hours searching the internet, I figured it out. I hope this step-by-step will help you:

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-11. Here is what your placket pattern piece should look like more or less. It should come with your shirt pattern but if not, you can find printable templates quite easily.

 

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2. Place your placket piece over the sleeve, matching the cutting line marking. Important: both pieces should be with the wrong side facing up toward you!
Stitch the box around the cutting line (follow the red line), pivoting at the angles. It’s better to set your machine on a small stitch length.

 

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-33. Cut the opening line and finish with a V shape very close to the stitching line.

 

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4. Turn the sleeve over and with right side up, flip the placket through the opening. Press open.

 

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-55. Take the small side and fold under along the folding line. Press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-66. Stitch very close to the folding line.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-77. On the other side, fold the end forming a point. Press.

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8. Fold along the two folding lines and press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-99. Now we have folded and pressed the fisrt line, we are going to fold the other one and press it.
how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1010. Place the pointed part over the small one. We are now going to stitch the red line, enclosing the raw edges under the placket.
how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-11
11. Edgestitch the placket following the red line. Go approx. 2 cm down the cuff opening to enclose the raw edge.

 

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-12
12. The result: nice and tidy! You can now baste your sleeve bottom folds (usually 2).

 

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-13
13. Interface your cuff pieces and with right sides together, stitch following the red line. Trim the seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Clip the curve.

 

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14. Turn inside out and press.

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15. Now do what I say, not what I do: instead of pinning the cuff layer to the outside of the sleeve, pin it to the inside. This should look almost like the picture but with the cuff inside.
Stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press them toward the cuff.

 

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1616. Fold the seam allowance of the cuff inside, press it and edgestitch all around the cuff. You’re done! The only missing step is sewing the button and buttonhole.
I hope that was useful! Have a nice week end!
I will come back very soon with great news!
pauline-sewing-pattern
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How to Sew a Shirt Collar
How about a little step by step today?
I thought I would take photos while sewing the classic men shirt I made for my boyfriend in order to explain some tricky steps.
I mean the first shirt I made, I was terrified of sewing a collar, sleeve plackets and cuffs. And at the end they were not so difficult to sew once you knew the important steps.
Here are the important steps to follow when sewing a classic shirt collar:
1 copia1. These are your 4 collar pieces: 2 undercollar (which will be attached to the rest of the shirt) and 2 uppercollar (which fold over the tie for example). You need to interface the 4 pieces.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
2. Take the 2 uppercollar pieces and with right sides together, pin them together like on the picture. Set the stitch length to 2 or 2,5 for more strength. Stitch following the red line, pivoting at the corner. Cut the seam allowance close to the stitch line and cut the angles in bias.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
3. Turn right side out and press flat. Be careful when turning the collar points!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
4. Take your first undercollar piece and matching the center and marks, pin it to one layer of the uppercollar like on the picture. The collar stays open.
5 copia (1)5. Stitch the undercollar to the layer of uppercollar following the red line from mark to mark (they depend of your pattern, but they should be more or less where the red line start).
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
6. It’s not easy to locate the collar to stitch, so just a picture to show you.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
7. Repeat the steps 4 and 5 for the other undercollar piece. Pin it to the other uppercollar layer and stitch.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
8. This is what you have now: the undercollar and the uppercollar are joined together between the marks. The ends of the undercollar pieces are free.

shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
9. From the mark, stitch the undercollar pieces together following the red line. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching lines or clip the curve.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
10. Turn right side out and press flat. Look how nice it looks already!
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
11. If we open it, this is how it looks. It is best to cut your seam allowances with different length to avoid markings on the outside of the fabric when pressing.
shirt collar, tutorial, undercollar, uppercollar
12. Almost done! Now take your shirt and baste around the neckline (sorry, my thread is very matchy, almost invisible. But there is a red arrow.). Clip around the neckline.
15 copia13. Matching the center and the extremities, pin the collar to the shirt. Stitch first the inside layer like you would for bias biding. Press the seam allowance toward the collar. Fold in the seam allowance of the other layer, pin and stitch with a topstitch very close to the edge (see the arrows). Continue the topstitching around the whole collar.
This is it! I hope it was useful and I will be back very soon with the next step by step on sleeve cuffs with placket.
This week end, I’ll try to take pictures of the photographer with his new shirt 🙂
Have a nice end of the week.
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