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Alameda Sew-Along: the skirt

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
The Alameda dress is taking shape little by little: you now have your complet bodice with lining.
Today, we’ll see how to make the skirt of the Alameda, the skirt lining and join them to the bodice:

Watch the video directly in Youtube.

Let’s meet on Saturday for the last step of the #AlamedaSewAlong!

 

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AlamedaBlogPatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Alameda Sew-Along: Piping!

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Today, we’ll start with the first video tutorial of the #AlamedaSewAlong! Yeah!

I had a lot of fun last spring making the videos for the Carme blouse Sew-Along and you were a lot to tell me that it was a huge help to have these visual tutorials, so here come the Alameda videos!

You’ll recognize the music 😉

Piping is a great decorative option and such an easy way to add a pop of colour to your Alameda dress. I invite you to see the inspiration boards to get ideas on what colour you want to choose: contrast, patterned piping, the same colour, leather…

And remember that you can buy it already-made or you can make it yourself! See for yourself on this tutorial I made back in April.

To watch the video in Youtube, click here.

I hope you liked it. See you on Monday with the bodice video…

 

 

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AlamedaBlogPatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Alameda Sew-Along: Lengthen/Shorten the bodice and connect two sizes

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

Today we’ll see how to make simple changes to the Alameda pattern: how to lengthen or shorten the bodice and how to connect two sizes together on the skirt part.

Note: If you have made a Full Bust Adjustment according to the previous tutorial, you have noticed that the front bodice is slightly longer than before. If you want to lengthen/shorten it as well, do it after the FBA so that you modify all the bodice pieces the same way.

First, let’s lengthen the bodice:

1. Draw a line parallel to the waistline on all the bodice pattern pieces (nº 1, 2, 3 and 4). I made mine about 5 cm (2″) from the bottom.
2. Cut along the line and place the pieces over a piece of paper. Add the length you need between each piece and tape in place. Make sure you add the same amount between all the pieces.
And now, let’s shorten the bodice, you’ll see it’s even easier:

1. Overlap the pieces by the length you need to remove. Make sure you remove the same length on all the bodice pieces. Tape together.

If you need to connect 2 different sizes on the skirt pieces, here’s how to do it:

1. With a ruler, connect two lines together (in red 40-42 and in blue 42-46 for exemple, but not more than  an 2 size difference) by drawing a new line from the top to the bottom. Repeat this step on all the skirt pieces and don’t forget to change the marks placement.

There you go! These changes were quite easy and will help you get the best possible fit for your Alameda dress.

Ask any questions you have in the comments section…

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AlamedaBlogPatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Alameda Sew-Along: Full Bust Adjustment for Princess Seams

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

 

Today we’ll see how to make a Full Bust Adjustment on the princess seam of the Alameda dress pattern. But first, you might be wondering: How do I know if I need a FBA?
Well, it’s not that difficult. The first clue is that you have more than a B bra cup (sorry to all the ladies with bosom, as the patterns are drafted by a small chested girl – me! – this fitted design will need a FBA to get fit on you). You also want to make a FBA if:
  • compared to all your measurements, your bust measurements is one (or more) size bigger.
  • when you made your muslin, you went for a bigger size for the bust but have now some extra fabric at the armscye.
  • the waistline is pulling up at the front.
Let’s take an example: Maria’s measurements are bust 92 cm (36″), waist 70 cm (27 1/2″) and hips 95 cm (37 1/4″). For the waist and hips, she should cut a size 38 but her bust belongs to size 40. The problem if she cuts size 40 for the bust and 38 for the waist and hips is that the armscye and shoulder lines will also belong to size 40, which will be too big for her and most likely there will be some extra fabric where the princess seam starts and at the shoulder seams. The solution is to cut the pattern pieces in 38 and add extra volume only in the bust area.
And of course make a muslin before to check the fit and correct the adjustments!
Let’s see how to make the Full Bust Adjustment:
1Let’s take Maria’s measurements again: her bust measurement is 92 cm (36″) when the one corresponding to her size 38 is 88 cm (34 1/2″), there is a 4 cm (1 1/2″) difference. She’ll cut the pattern in size 38 and add 2 cm (3/4″) at each bust seam to make the full bust adjustment, without increasing the waistline or the neckline.

1. Take your pattern bodice front and bodice side front pieces. Draw the seam allowances and all the marks (notches, grainline…).On the bodice side front, we’re going to draw 3 lines:

  •    1: from the waistline to the fullest part of the bust.
  •    2: from 1/3 of the armhole (remember that the armhole is made of the the front and side front bodice pieces) to the fullest part of the bust.
  •   3: from the fullest part of the bust, draw a diagonal line toward the side seam allowance, like a dart.
32. Cut lines 1 and 2 and stop when you reach the seam allowance.
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3. Cut the seam allowance but make sure it’s still attached.
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4. Cut line 3 and stop just before you reach the fullest part of the bust.
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5. Tape the princess seam to a piece of paper and pivot the pattern along lines 1, 2 and 3 so that the opening at line 1 measures the  2 cm (3/4″) increase we need. Make sure the 2 cm (3/4″) increase is even all the way down line 1. Tape the pattern in place on the paper.
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6. As you can see, the waistline is not even. Draw a line parallel to the waistline on the princess seam part.
7. Cut along the line and place the small piece on the continuity of the waistline, 2 cm (3/4″) from line 1. Tape.
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8. Cut roughly around the new pattern piece.
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9. Draw a line extending line 3 to the princess seam.
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10. Cut along line 3 until you reach the first pivot. Close the “dart” and tape.
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11. Cut the line 3 from the princess seam to the pivot. Place a piece of paper under the spread “dart” and tape.
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12. We need to take 2 cm (3/4″) in at the side seam to keep the waistline the original width (this is the measurement we added at the bust). Draw a new side seam starting from line 3 and ending 2 cm (3/4″) from the waistline edge.
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13. Now we need to add the increases we made to the side front piece to the front. Trace 2 lines at the same level you made the increases.
14. Measure how much you added to the side front piece and report that on the front piece. For the bust, measure the seam allowance line, not the cutting line.
15. Here you go: your new pattern pieces!  We have increased the bust area without touching to the waistline, armhole or neckline.
If you have any questions, let me know in the comments.
Are you going to make a FBA?

 

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Alameda Sew-Along: Style Inspiration

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

After choosing your fabric for the Alameda dress, let’s see some style inspiration to help you decide how to combine the colours, patterns or different fabrics to get the perfect dress!

You can use contrasting piping (buy it already made or make your own following this tutorial), contrasting panels, mix and match the skirt and top fabrics, go for a day version or a party look… there are so many options!

 

source: 1, 2, 3

Use different colours or patterned and plain fabrics on the different pattern pieces. For example dark colours on the outside will make you waist appear smaller (great visual trick!). And what about making the flounce in leather? With maybe leather piping? Perfect for the rock’n roll chicks.

source: 1, 2, 3

Prints are great! For a nautical look, go for stripes. Want to emulate the Dolce & Gabbana spanish look, polka dots will be your friends. And for the more romantics, florals can never go wrong.

source: 1, 2, 3
The Alameda dress can go from day to night in no time: just choose the right fabric. How about a brocade? And lace would look amazing as well (remember to underline the dress) for a wedding. Bright colours are a favourite of mine. Leave the piping out and add a big bow for fun.
source: 1, 2, 3
Last but not least, a Fall/Winter version in tweed is really elegant. Worn with a cardigan and tights, the Alameda will make a cute dress for work and for going out on the week-end.
I hope this has given you a lot of ideas for your
Alameda. If you have any questions, let me know here in the comments.

 

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AlamedaBlogPatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Alameda Dress Sew-Along!

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

 

How do you feel about a Sew-Along?
You’ve been asking for one for the new pattern, the Alameda dress, so I thought I would repeat the experience and prepare some videos for you like for the Carme blouse (you seemed to like it, no?).
The Alameda dress is not difficult, it’s an intermediate seamstress level, but I think a beginner with good bases would be more than ready to make it. The more complex steps are adding the piping to the princess seams, stitch the lining and the invisible zipper. And with the help of a Sew-Along, no need to fear these techniques.
Let’s see what we’ll cover in the first week:
  • Choose the right fabric and lining for your Alameda
  • Make the ajustements (FBA and SBA, shortening or lengthening, join different sizes)
Then we’ll start with the video tutorials:
  • Stitch the piping
  • Make the bodice and bodice lining
  • Sew the skirt (with pocket option)
  • Attach the zipper
  • Finish (fellsticth and hem)
Grab your Alameda Sew-Along button, prepare your hastags #AlamedaSewAlong, get the pattern if you don’t have it (Alameda Dress pattern) and #paulinealice and start thinking about your fabric. We’ll talk about that on Monday, July 21st for the official start of the Alameda Sew-Along!

 

 

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Carme Blouse: Safari Dress Variation

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

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I’ve always wanted to make a saharienne inspired dress out of the Carme blouse pattern and I woke on Saturday morning with an urge to sew it Now! So I drank my morning tea and headed to the sewing room and I got out for lunch with this Safari Carme Dress.

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As you can see, it’s still missing some closure on the front placket, I’m planning to make some kind of lace-up closure with eyelets like the Yves Saint Laurent original saharienne. But I was missing a hammer so I’ll finish it later…I used a natural linen, it’s so comfortable for the summer… I think it would also look great in light cotton or chambray. The fabric is from the Fabrics-store, they have an amazing linen selection (they sent me this fabric to make a tutorial of the Carme blouse and I had just enough left for the dress).

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Here you can see the loose shape gathered at the waist by the belt and the other details I changed on the original Carme blouse pattern: I shortened the sleeves, added a breast pocket, lengthened the placket, added belt loops and lengthened the length of the pattern. These are very easy changes. Let’s see them on a diagram in case you want to make a Carme dress:

tutorial1

In red are the original pattern pieces and in blue the new ones, in black the pieces and marks that you don’t need to change:
  •  You can keep the pleated yoke if you wish but I wanted a simpler look so I joined the yoke (4) and the front (1) together and drew the new bodice front. I lengthen it by about 30 cm on the side (careful, the hem is curved).
  • I lengthened the back bodice by 30 cm as well (this measurement will depend on your height of course, I’m small so I don’t need to add a lot but you might want to add more or less length) and I made a more pronounced and longer curve at the back (I think the back is about 8 cm longer than the front).
  • I lengthened the front placket (5), it’s about 40 cm now.
  • You can use the same collar pieces (6).
  • I shortened the sleeves (3) right on the “shorten or lengthen here” mark and raised the new square mark about 12 cm under the top of the sleeve head. I used the same sleeve tab pieces (7).
  • I added 4 belt loops at waist level (2 on the front and 2 on the back) to wear a belt and give some shape to the dress. They are made of self fabric bias strips. These could also be place at hips level for a different look.
  • I added a breast pocket with flap. I made a box pleat pocket for an utilitarian look.
  • The only thing you would have to be careful about is the hip measurements: be sure to add enough room for your hips as the original pattern hits just above them. With following the lines and opening them just a little bit, my dress is very confortable and loose, but if you are pear shaped, that’s something I’d keep in mind when drawing the new pattern lines.
That’s it! Quite easy, no? I hope some of you will be tempted by this Safari Carme variation and if you have any question, feel free to contact me.

 

 

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Tips for Sewing with Leather: Paula Skirt tutorial

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
As part of the Sewing Indie month, I wrote a tutorial for Maria from Maria Denmark Patterns (find the original on her blog). She kindly sent me her Paula skirt pattern, a great basic pattern and I asked her if I could write a tutorial for sewing it with leather. I’m no expert, it was the first garment I made in leather (actually, it’s faux-leather) but I had this great fabric and I thought we could all learn from what I could come up with.

 

So here we go:
 

And just so you know, the Paula skirt pattern is on sale (15% discount)!

 

 

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Summer Shorts: Pattern Runway Scalloped Hem Shorts in Linen

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
Summer is here and I am in need of cute yet confortable clothes! I think that I can live an entire summer out of dresses but sometimes I feel more like wearing pants, shorts or even overalls… but still feel dressed up and cute.
And here comes the Scalloped Hem Shorts pattern by Pattern Runway, perfect for these summer days when you need to look smart but cool at the same time. I love the hem (of course!), the classic look of the slash and welt pockets, the front seam… Very sassy! It could easily go from a day at the beach to a meeting in the city and finish to a party or drinks on the evening.
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Of course, in order to wear them all day long, you might want to stay away from linen! What can I say? I had this waxed linen for about a year and I love its leathery look, I think it adds a nice touch to the pattern but it wrinkles like crazy. I was seated for 15 minutes before taking the pictures and the front looks aweful (I saw that only after taking the pictures ;).
5The sizing of the pattern is good but I found it a little big. According to the measurements, I cut a size XS (and didn’t make a muslin, silly me) but when I tried it on, it was large both at the hips and at the waist (it’s supposed to sit at the natural waist). I remember reading reviews saying the same. I stitched 1,5 cm seam allowances all over instead of the 1 cm included in the pattern. But I think I’ll just cut the XXS size next time as it’s still a little big (it’s the first time I’ve entered into such a small size haha). I would also make them a little bit shorter, but that’s a personal preference. But these are such easy changes that I can only say the best about this pattern (and it’s really my fault as I could have avoided that by making a muslin).
4The instructions are clear (the welt pocket lining could be easier, if you have never made one, take your time and check their online tutorial). I made false welt pockets as I didn’t want to add bulk to the back and I knew I wouldn’t use these pockets anyway.
What about you, do you have a favourite shorts pattern?
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BlogMalvarosaPatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Making the Malvarosa Dress for Petites Tutorial by SBCC

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

I’m so happy to present this tutorial by Betsy from SBCC patterns (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick, love the name!), specialized in sewing patterns for petite women.

And you know what? I am a petite woman! 5 ft 1 (1, 53 m).

Betsy has made the Malvarosa dress for herself and proposed to share some tips on Petites alterations.

So please welcome Betsy who’s going to show you how to alter very easily the Malvarosa pattern so you can rock the low waist trend this summer! See for yourself her beautiful version, very Gatsby and Roaring 20’s fabulosity if you ask me!

Hi, I’m Betsy from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns. I am happy to meet and work with Pauline Alice. Sewing Indie month has brought us together and I am thrilled to have found her patterns that are classic, feminine- oh yeah, and a breeze to sew together!

I make petite patterns, for women 5’4” and under. Believe it or not, 70% of the female population is actually petite in torso length, leg length, or both. It is easy to make petite pattern alterations and Pauline Alice was a good sport about letting me make a petite version of her Malvarosa Dress.

I am always drawn to drop-waist dresses. Maybe I was a tall, 1920’s Flapper in a previous life, sporting the chic elongated looks that hit gracefully at the hip level. Well, in this lifetime, Flapper I am not with my 5 ft 1″/1.55m petite stature. Waistlines that hit below the natural waist tend to be hard to pull of for petites- it takes the right proportions.

The Malvarosa dress had me hook, line, and sinker. I knew I had to make it, as it is a silhouette that I gravitate towards lately and also an easy style to modify for petites. With the right heels I could pull it off as is, but I like my flats and needed to make some petite modifications.

I always start out with a muslin to get a baseline idea of what changes I may need to make. I made up the first version as per Pauline’s original dress. It turned out really cute, but a touch too long for me. So then I made the second muslin with the following alterations:
  • I shortened the bottom skirt 3″/7,5cm. Since drop waists elongate the torso my philosophy is that it is best for petites to keep the hem above the knee so short legs don’t look shorter.
    (I went a little too short on the 2nd muslin and it was a full on show when I bent over- whoa!). Revised the skirt again and only reduced 2”/5cm in length which was a bit more modest.
  • Then I reduced the bodice length 1″/2.5 cm at the armhole, both front and back to bring the armhole up.
  • I shortened the midsection of the bodice 1/2″/1,25 cm.
  • The sleeves were a touch too long for my narrow shoulders so I shaved off 1/4″/3mm.
  • Now this one is just personal preference, but I raised the neckline 1/4″/3mm in the front and reduced the total neck width 1/2″/1,25cm. For me this kept the proportions of the Malvarosa same as the original, but just a bit smaller.
Alright, enough with the muslins! I cut into a printed silk that I picked up in Paris and have been saving for the perfect project, such as this.  The Malvarosa dress is a great style for trim and embellishment, so I did a little beading and lace at the neck and lace at the waist seam. Voila! I have a new summer dress that I can’t wait to wear!
 
Regardless of your height this is an easy to sew summer dress that you can whip up in no time! If you are a taller gal and worried that the regular length will be short, you can use the same modifications as illustrated, just in reverse by adding instead of reducing. 
………
Thanks so much for this tutorial Betsy! You look absolutely gorgeous in your Malvarosa dress (definitely going for that flapper style!) and you’ve given us great advices on how to alter a simple pattern for Petites.
Be sure to check Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick patterns for amazing patterns especially for petite frames (I have my eyes on the Manhattan trousers, they look so smart!)

 

 

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BlogTutorials and techniques

How to Make your Own Piping

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice
Piping! That’s such a great detail to add to any design and so easy to make as well.
I’ve been playing with piping lately and eventhough you can find quite a lot of colours at the store, wouldn’t it be great to make piping in your favourite fabric?
Let’s see how to do it!
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1. This is some store-bought piping. You can see how it’s made: a cord is sandwiched between a bias strip of fabric and there is a stitching line very close to that cord. The strip of fabric beeing cut on the bias allows for a lot of flexibility in the piping, making it great to outline any curve seam line.
3 2. Cut a square piece of fabric. I made mine 25 cm x 25 cm (10″ x 10″) but you can make it as big or small as you want. With this size, I was able to make a 2,4 m strip of bias (2 1/4 yards).
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3. Cut the square in half diagonally. This will give the bias.
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4. With right sides together, stitch the sides together (the straight ones, not the diagonal ones!) very close to the edge. 6
 5. Press the seam allowances open with the tip of the iron.
7 6. Draw parallel
lines every 2,5 cm (1″) starting at the top (along the bias) on the wrong side of the fabric. The last line might be slighty smaller (mine’s 2,2 cm), that’s because my seam allowances were a little bit too deep.

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7. That’s the tricky part, at least for me. With right sides together, bring the edges together and match the lines along the seam line. The first row of each side should be offset, like on the picture. Pin together and stitch very close to the edge.

98. After the tricky part, the fun one! Now that you have a tube, start cutting the first offset row following the continuous line until the end.

109. Now you have the strip of fabric cut on the bias and you need your cord.

1110. Place the cord on the wrong side on the bias, fold the bias in half to sandwich the cord and secure it in place with pins.

1211. With a zipper foot, stitch as close as possible to the cord (possibly with a matching thread! I’m using a constrating one so you see it better).

1312. There you go! You made your own piping! Now use it in some great outfits!
Here are some ideas: here and here.
Do you use piping often? And do you buy it or make it yourself?

 

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BlogCarmePatrons pauline aliceTutoriels et techniques

Carme Sew-Along: schedule and what you’ll need…

by Pauline Alice
written by Pauline Alice

I’m very happy to make a Sew-Along for the Carme blouse, and with videos! How great is that? I think it’s going to be really cool and easy for you to follow (and you won’t have to read a 10 km long post everyday other day, hehe). The other good thing is that all the videos will be available indefinitely, so even if you can’t join right now, you’ll be able to access them here on the blog or through Youtube.Let’s talk about the schedule. As you might want to buy fabric (and maybe make a muslin), I’ll give you more than a full week to gather the tools and material for the Carme blouse. Here is the schedule:

Monday, March 3rd: inspiration and variation
Monday, March 10th: Cut the fabric
Wednesday, March 12th: Pin tucks
Friday, March 14th: Yoke and placket
Monday, March 17th: French seams
Wednesday, March 19th: Sleeves
Friday, March 21st: Collar
Monday, March 24th: Hem
Wendesday, March 26th: Buttonholes
Monday, April 7th: Your Carme Party!!!

You can start collecting your material right now, here’s what you’ll need:

  • Lightweight woven fabric such as cotton voile, lawn, batiste,dotted swiss, chiffon, linen, chambray…
  • Fabric (150 cm wide): 1,7 m  (60″ wide: 1,9 yard)
  • Fabric (115 cm wide): 2 m   (45″ wide: 2 1/4 yards)
  • 10 small buttons
  • matching thread
  • optional: fusible interfacing for the collar if your fabric is too light on its own (20 x 50 cm or 19,7″ x 7,9″)

And here is the Sew-Along button (Click right on the image to save it):
So let me know if you’re going to join and don’t hesitate to ask me anything in the comment section so that everybody can share. I also created a flickr group so you can post pictures of your Carme blouse.
I’m really looking forward to start sewing with you!
Have a wonderful weekend!

 

 

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