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Remember how we created the bound buttonholes for our Ninot jacket, no? Now we need to make the openings on the facing so that you can pass your buttons through the buttonholes.
1.Interface the front facing and report the buttonholes markings on the wrong side from the front pattern piece, drawing a box the same dimension than for the bound buttonholes.
2.This step, you’ve done it before for the bound buttonhole. With a short stitch length, stitch around the buttonhole box and then cut it open, cutting in V in the corners as close as possible to the stitching line.


3.Open the rectangle and press it flat. You can stitch it down so all the small trianles stay in place.


4.To finish the buttonholes, once the facing is stitched to the main jacket at the end of the construction, you will handstitch the opening to the corresponding bound buttonholes.

That’s it for the bound buttonholes! I hope it was useful and that you’re going to try it to your next jacket/coat project if you haven’t already… On Wednesday, we’ll see the welt pockets, you’ll see that it’s quite similar to the buttonholes.
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I hope you had an amazing New Year Eve and Day! I couldn’t find a better way to start 2014 than with a sewing tutorial: the perfect way to put into practice all those sewing resolutions I’m sure you took…
I am not planning to make a full-on Sew-along for the Ninot Jacket but rather a series of tutorials about the most difficult steps such as the bound buttonholes, the welt pockets, the collar… The construction of the rest of the jacket is easy but if you feel like you would like to see one step in details, let me know. So let’s start today with the bound buttonholes!
The patch technique is basically a patch of fabric folded to form the little “lips” of the bound buttonhole. You might want to practice on a piece of fabric before starting on your real jacket 🙂
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-31.Depending of the version you are making, you will want to interface the wrong side of the whole front piece of the pattern (Version A, lined) or only cut small rectangles of interfacing and apply them over the buttonhole markings on the wrong side of the front piece (version B, unlined).
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-4bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-52.On the pattern, you will notice that you just have a line, not a box, to mark the buttonhole place. This is because the box dimension is going to depend of your button. Here is how to measure the box you will need to draw:
Take your button length and add 1 cm (3/8″) to it to obtain the box length. The box width is 1 cm as well (3/8″) which you divide by a centered line. For example, you have a 4 cm button, your box is going to be 5 cm x 1 cm (2″ x 3/8″) with a centered horizontal line at 0.5 cm (3/16″).
Report the box on the interfacing and baste around it.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-6bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-73.Cut a patch of fabric about 10 cm x 10 cm (3.9″ x 3.9″) on the fabric bias. We will trim the edges at the end so don’t worry too much about the size.
With right sides together, pin the patch over the basted box.

4.Select a short stitch length on your machine.
From the wrong side, stitch around the box starting from a long side. You might want to count the stitches you make on the short sides to be sure they are the same length.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-105.Now you have to be very careful with this step! Cut through both layers (the front and the patch) from the center and cut in V into the angles of the box. You have to cut the closest possible to the stitches without cutting them (if you have small embroidery scissors, it’s a perfect time to use them).
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-11bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-126.Pass the patch through the open box. Lay it flat and press lightly. If the corners don’t lay flat, it’s because you haven’t cut close enough to the stitches during the previous step (fold it back carefully and cut a little bit closer).
7.Fold the top of the patch in two so that it forms the first “lip” of the buttonhole. The fold should reach the center of the box. Pin in place.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-16bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-178.Fold the bottom of the patch in two to form the second “lip”. Both lips meet in the middle. Pin in place. You can press lightly so it keeps its shape, but be careful that the edges don’t show.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-199.Here is how it looks from the right side!
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-20bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-21bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2210.You might notice that there are small triangles at the ends of the box. Like on the second picture, stitch the small triangle to the patch, securing the folds. Use a short stitch length and stitch the closest possible to the fold of the triangle.
bound-buttonholes-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2311.Remove the basting threads and make the other buttonholes!
On Monday, we’ll see how to stitch the buttonholes openings on the facing to make a beautiful finish on the inside as well.
Have a great week end and ¡Felices Reyes! (Wise Men Day, January 6th: in Spain, they bring the presents to the children).


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Hello! How would you like to continue the shirt tutorial?
Another step I found difficult when sewing my first shirt was the sleeve placket and the cuff. I wanted it to look nice and tidy like the ones I had from the store but I couldn’t figure out how to make it. And the pattern from Burda I was using didn’t have easy explanations, hem hem 🙂
So after many hours searching the internet, I figured it out. I hope this step-by-step will help you:

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-11. Here is what your placket pattern piece should look like more or less. It should come with your shirt pattern but if not, you can find printable templates quite easily.



2. Place your placket piece over the sleeve, matching the cutting line marking. Important: both pieces should be with the wrong side facing up toward you!
Stitch the box around the cutting line (follow the red line), pivoting at the angles. It’s better to set your machine on a small stitch length.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-33. Cut the opening line and finish with a V shape very close to the stitching line.


4. Turn the sleeve over and with right side up, flip the placket through the opening. Press open.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-55. Take the small side and fold under along the folding line. Press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-66. Stitch very close to the folding line.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-77. On the other side, fold the end forming a point. Press.

8. Fold along the two folding lines and press.

how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-99. Now we have folded and pressed the fisrt line, we are going to fold the other one and press it.
how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1010. Place the pointed part over the small one. We are now going to stitch the red line, enclosing the raw edges under the placket.
11. Edgestitch the placket following the red line. Go approx. 2 cm down the cuff opening to enclose the raw edge.


12. The result: nice and tidy! You can now baste your sleeve bottom folds (usually 2).


13. Interface your cuff pieces and with right sides together, stitch following the red line. Trim the seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Clip the curve.


14. Turn inside out and press.


15. Now do what I say, not what I do: instead of pinning the cuff layer to the outside of the sleeve, pin it to the inside. This should look almost like the picture but with the cuff inside.
Stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press them toward the cuff.


how-sew-shirt-sleeve-placket-cuff-sewing-pattern-1616. Fold the seam allowance of the cuff inside, press it and edgestitch all around the cuff. You’re done! The only missing step is sewing the button and buttonhole.
I hope that was useful! Have a nice week end!
I will come back very soon with great news!
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