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Givre dress

Givre dress

by Pauline Alice

About two weeks ago, Deer and Doe released its new Fall collection and was very lucky to review one the new patterns, the maternity Givre dress.

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First, I’d like to thank Éléonore and Camille for asking me to review their pattern, that was very thoughtful of them. If you could think there is a cold competition between pattern designers, I’m sorry to disappoint you: what I’ve witness is respect and admiration for each others’ works. So thank you girls and congratulation on a beautiful collection!

But now about the dress I made: the Givre dress pattern is a knit dress pattern with many versions. You can make it as a dress, a t-shirt, with long sleeves or sleeveless, and as a normal size or maternity dress. Obviously, that’s the version I’m reviewing!

 

It’s exactly the kind of dresses I wanted to wear during my pregnancy. I feel put together and comfortable at the same time (just need to make sure that you have the appropriate underwear as the dress is quite bodycon!). The best detail for me was the possibility to choose between to special sizing: a 3-6 months or 6-9 months belly! I am still wearing my Aldaia dresses, with the waistline gathered above the belly, they fit but it’s very clear they are not made for pregnancy so it’s a great change to have the perfect amount of ease and gathers like this pattern. As size goes, I chose a 38 based on my new bust measurements. It’s a good thing I did as my fabric doesn’t have the stretch amount required.

I had this black bio cotton jersey from Les trouvailles d’Amandine in my stash, it only has about 25% stretch but that was the only black jersey I had and I wanted this dress to be black. I made a few modifications to the pattern: I combined view A and B to add sleeves to the seamless version and scooped the back neckline and redrew the neckline band to match.

It sews very easily and fast. Instructions for the gathers are great and everything went together nicely! I wanted to make more but as I have only over a month left, I might wait and make the “normal” version instead 😉 But if you’re pregnant and looking for a nice dress pattern, I highly recommend the Givre dress.

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wedding dress

This is certainly the most personal post I’ve ever written, but since I made it, let’s talk about my wedding dress!

A little bit of context first: I got married last October and I knew I wanted to make my wedding dress from the start. I’m sewing almost all my clothes so I could’nt imagine not sewing the dress I’ll remerber for ever. I was afraid it would be difficult and stressful but actually, it all went perfectly well. So there you go, here’s my wedding dress:

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I was inspired by a dress I tried on in a shop, the fabric was beaded and the cut pretty simple, but it was very original. My next move was to go fabric shopping (lucky for me, the fabric shop is next door to the wedding dress shop!) and I found some fabric almost identical to the dress I tried on before. I guess that was fate! I came home with 4 m of this amazing tulle beaded in transparent and white pearls and some champagne color silk crepe for lining.

The bodice is made of four pieces: two fronts and two backs. There is some folds at the front, gathered into a dart and the back is quite low. I added some rows of pearls to the back neckline and made a removable cape.

The skirt has some folds in the front and a small train at the back (with buttons so it can be lifted later for the dance).

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I don’t have any construction pictures but believe me, it was a very simple dress to make. The only complicated thing was working with the fabric, beads would fall everywhere (I still find some when I clean under the furniture!).

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The dress was not the only handmade item at the wedding: I made the watercolor illustration and design of the invitations, seatings and church booklet.
Thanks to Fandi, our photographs, for such great memories.
Have you made your wedding dress or are you considering it? Or do you prefer to buy clothes for special occasion and not put too much pressure on yourself? I would love to hear about it.

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Apollon Sweater Dress

Apollon Sweater Dress

by Pauline Alice

 

This dress is like a pyjama!I discovered the pattern brand I Am Pattern last year in a fair in Paris and feel in love with the dress the designer was wearing. It was the Apollon sweater dress and it looked so cool and chic at the same time (ok, her version was in a leather printed fabric, much more elegant than mine).

 

The pattern is really simple (fee pieces, easy construction) and it’s really fast to sew. I only used my serger (now that I finally gave in and bought one, I can’t seem to remember how I was able to survive without one) and I think it took me about two hours from start to finish. The fit is forgiving and it’s really comfortable to wear. There’s also a shorter version included in case you want to make a regular sweatshirt (I’ll try it soon).As for the fabric, it’s a black fleece from The Sweet Mercerie (almost half my stock comes from them), it’s warm without being to bulky. As all black is not my style, I used a fusible patch from Un Chat sur un Fil (it says something like “princesses, father & sons”).

 

Have a great week,

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Silk Maxi Dress

Silk Maxi Dress

by Pauline Alice

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I’ve always loved maxi dresses, flowy and romantic skirts. You see, I had more of a bohemian/hippie style when I was in college so sometimes the urge to wear loose dresses comes out.

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This summer, during the sales, I found this amazing silk fabric. And I thought it best to make a simple dress to emphasize the lines, tribal pattern and beautiful colours.
I just cut the fabric along the lines (very easy to follow) and gathered 3 tiers. The bottom one is 3 m wide (twice the fabric width), the second one is 2 m wide, the third one 1,5 m (one width). Then I gathered the top one to a small bodice, self-lined as the dress is to worn bra-less. The bodice is also gathered at the neckline and I added an elastic at the back. I made the crossed-straps with a length of fabric folded in two like bias binding.

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That’s a very comfortable dress to wear during summer. The silk is so light and soft against the skin and I think it would also look great with heels and without the belt for a party. And don’t let anyone tell you maxi dress are not for short girl: I’m only 1,55 m (5 ft 1) and I love this look!

 

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My Camí dress

My Camí dress

by Pauline Alice
I can now show you the Camí dress I made for the Sew-Along! I used a floral cotton fabric and a white cotton sateen for the contrasted collar and cuffs (that’s a look I saw on a Dolce & Gabanna dress and I thought I could try to make a modest replica).
Now I really looking forward to show all your pretty dresses on the 25th…
And I remind you that there will be one lucky winner of the next pattern during the giveaway!

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Finish the dress! and a prize to win (at the end)…
Hello,
I am one day late for this post, sorry… I am working on the new pattern and got carried away.
But we still have to finish our Camí dress so let’s get to it.
You’ll need to hem your skirt.
Press and you’re ready to go!
HEMMING THE SKIRT

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1.Because my fabric is busy and medium-weight, I’ll machine stitch the hem. You might prefer to use a blind hem stitch or hand-stitch the hem if you don’t want your hem to show.
First, baste a row of stitches 2 cm (6/8″) from the bottom edge.
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2.Press the fabric with the basting line going inside.
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3.Using the first fold as a guide, fold over again and press. Stitch at 2 cm (6/8″) from the border (if you have an edgestitching foot, now is the moment to use it to get a really straight sticthing line!). If you want to go back to previous step, all the Sew-Along post are here.
THE END!
I’ll show you my finished dress tomorrow.
Now it’s also time for you to take pictures of your Camí dress so we can all see your beautiful creations!
So get to your sewing machine and send me a picture with a link to your blog post (if you have one) by email (paulineyalice @ gmail . com) or post it on the flickr page.
And to get it even more exiting, I’ll be drawing one of you for a special prize. Submit your Camí dress and you’ll have a chance to win the new pauline alice pattern (coming out in November). You have until Thursday 24th of October to send your picture.
Have a great week!
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Camí Sew-Along: Option – Adding a Breast Pocket
I love pockets for their practicality and the detail they add to any simple design. I thought it would be nice to add an optional pocket template for the Camí dress to give it a more casual look.
Find the link to download the pocket pattern template below. Print it with NO scaling like the pattern, the seam allowances are also included in the pattern (1,5 cm or 5/8″).
cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-11.Cut your pocket piece and mark the folding lines. First, fold the seam allowances all around the pocket edges and press. You can baste or even stitch.
Fold twice the top of the pocket following the folding lines and stitch close to the fold line.

cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-22.Place the pocket over the bodice front left side and pin it matching the pocket bottom to the dart leg. Adjust the height as prefered. Mine is situated just over the bust apex.

When you are happy with the place, stitch around the pocket, leaving the pocket top open.
Are you going to add the pocket? If you have missed a step, here is the schedule.

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Camí Sew-Along: Sewing the Bodice

Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!

BODICE FRONT DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-11.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-22.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-33.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-44.Press the dart toward the center.

5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.

BODICE BACK DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-51.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-62.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.

SIDE SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-71.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-82.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-93.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).

SHOULDER SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-101.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.

BUTTON PLACKET

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-111.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-122.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-133.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.

That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!

 

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Piping Dress

Piping Dress

by Pauline Alice
Hello, as promised, here is the Piping Dress:
 

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I drafted the pattern myself and I still have to improve the shape and the fit, but I am quite happy. The bodice is one piece with front darts and it is sewn to the yoke/straps at the collar and at the back. The bodice and the gathered skirt are joined with the waistband. I also added in-seams pockets (so useful!).
Fitting the yoke/straps was a nightmare: I had to make 2 more muslins before getting it ok and I am still not completely satisfied (as you can see, the back rides up a little bit).

 

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Even with these little problems, I love the dress. The shape is very nice and flattering, the fabric is amazing and the piping details set it apart. And the open-back, what can I say about it? I just love it! I am fulfilling my summer to-do list one item at a time: this one checks the retro dress inspiration moodboard.

 

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Would you like to be a pattern tester? Wait for wednesday post for all the details…
Have a nice week!

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Scarlett O’Hara Barbecue Dress
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That’s the last dress I made: the famous barbecue dress worn by Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the wind.
I made it for a special occasion (I don’t wear that kind of dresses on a daily basis, sorry to disappoint you): a costume birthday party! How cool is that? I love costume parties…
And as the theme was the cinema, I couldn’t think of a better heroine than Scarlett.

scarlett-ohara-barbacue-dress-sewing-pattern-2scarlett-ohara-barbacue-dress-sewing-pattern-3I drafted the pattern myself: the skirt is gathered (5 meters of fabric) and the bodice has front and back darts. It was not a dificult dress to make even if it looks like it, but quite time consumming (one week-end non-stop).
The most important part of the costume is the foundation: a corset, a hoop-skirt and an underskirt. I will explain all those parts in the following post.

 

scarlett-ohara-barbacue-dress-sewing-pattern-4The dress was surprisingly very confortable and so dramatic. I didn’t want to take it off at the end of the night…
I leave you with a short excerpt from the movie where you can see the dress and the foundation worn by Scarlett I used as inspiration.
See you on Friday for the details post.

 

 

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“purple rain” Cambie dress
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As the weather has been so nice in Valencia, I felt like sewing up a little Spring dress during Easter week end. And what better pattern than the Cambie dress by Sewaholic?
This is one of my favourite patterns for its versatility, its elegant silhouette and the cute details like the pockets, the sweetheart neckline and the gathered cap sleeves.
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I used a poly/cotton blend that I bought on sales at Julián López for 1,99 €/m. That was quite a bargain! That fabric is very comfortable to wear because there is a very little bit of stretch, which is more than I am used to. It’s also very nice to work with and the print is so beautiful. I even found the perfect matching scenery for the pictures…
The dress bodice is lined with an electric blue lining fabric as that’s the only colour I had left and I liked the contrast. The skirt is unlined.
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The inseam pockets are just perfect and so useful, I love them so much that if a dress pattern doesn’t include them, I just add them myself.
It’s the third Cambie I am sewing and I am sure it’s not the last. I didn’t have to make any alteration to the pattern, it fits like a glove and the shape answers all my prayers.
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I am also sewing the muslin for my Mad Men dress. I am hoping to make a wearable muslin so I have another dress from a leftover fabric.
What about you? Sewing for Spring already?
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Pink Babydoll

Pink Babydoll

by Pauline Alice

How amazing it is to be able to dress like that in February! This is one of the many reasons I love Valencia…

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I made this dress before Christmas and it has been one of my favourites ever since. I am already sewing another one in blue with short sleeves.

I lve the flirty flounce, the hidden pockets, the button placket… And the pink fabric of course! I mean, I wear so much pink it’s actually hard to believe my favourite colour is blue (I swear it is!).

You might have recognised the fabric, it’s the same one I used for the petal coat. I have tried wearing the two garments together and I have to admit that even if such sweetness is not for the faint of heart, I love the matchiness of the outfit.

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Lately, I have been experiencing and learning about patternmaking and my last projects have almost all been self-designed. This one follows the same rule.

It was fun to incorporate all my favourite elements in one dress and make it work as a whole. The pockets were particularly exciting to design.

The overall loose shape allowed me to have a placket opening at the back instead of the regular zipper one, but I don’t even need to open the buttons to pass the dress over my head.

 

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I hope you like it as much as I do and hopefully I will be able to show you the spring version soon.

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