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#SERRAJACKET HACK

If you grew up in the nineties like me, you must know the game “fashion designer”. I loved it! I was thinking about this game when developping the Serra jacket pattern: with one base, we worked on different lengths, pockets, necklines, details to offer 3 versions for 3 different looks:

  • A parka for view A, A mid-thigh jacket inspired by the Pauline Alice Mini coat and the traditionnal breton raincoat.
  • An athletic jacket for view B, A short jacket with hood, athletic style.
  • A trench coat for view C, A knee-length jacket with trench coat details.

All the details can be mixed with the different versions to create infinite combinations! In this post, we’ll show you how to create 3 variations. You’ll see how to mix the pockets, lengths and other details. You can apply these modifications to all 3 versions, you just need your imagination run free and create your dream jacket!

To help you design your jacket, we’ve made a template available for free download. You can draw the details you want to incorporate to your jacket and see which version you prefer. You’ll find the download link at the end of the post.

HACK #1

Sportwear parka



You’ll need the following pieces to make this jacket:

      • 1   FRONT A*+B*
      • 2   BACK A
      • 3   SLEEVE B
      • 4    FRONT FACING A
      • 5    BACK FACING A
      • 6    SLEEVE FACING A
      • 7    FRONT LINING A
      • 8    BACK LINING A
      • 9    SLEEVE LINING B
      • 10  SIDE HOOD B / 10 bis SIDE HOOD B
      • 11  BACK HOOD B
      • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING B
      • 13  BACK HOOD LINING B
      • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING B / 14 bis FRONT HOOD FACING B
      • 29  BREAST POCKET B
      • 30  POCKET B
      • 31  POCKET FACING B
      • 17  ZIPPER PLACKET A
      • 27  FRONT CASING A
      • 29  BACK CASING A

*Pieces we will modify

FRONT POCKETS

On the front piece of view A (1) add the placements of pockets (29) & (30) from view B.

HACK #2

Long parka jacket



You’ll need the following pieces to make this version :

      • 1  FRONT A*+ C*
      • 2   BACK A*+ C*
      • 3  SLEEVE A
      • 4  FRONT FACING A*+ C*
      • 5  BACK FACING A
      • 6  SLEEVE FACING A
      • 7  FRONT LINING C
      • 8  BACK LINING C
      • 9  SLEEVE LINING A
      • 10  SIDE HOOD A
      • 11  BACK HOOD A
      • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING A
      • 13  BACK HOOD LINING A
      • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING A
      • 15  BACK HOOD FACING A
      • 16  VISOR A
      • 17  ZIPPER PLACKET A
      • 19  COLLAR A
      • 20  COLLAR BUTTON BAND A
      • 21  FRONT BUTTON BAND A
      • 22  BREAST POCKET FLAP A
      • 23  BREAST POCKET A
      • 24  POCKET FLAP A
      • 25  POCKET A
      • 26  OVER-POCKET A
      • 27  FRONT CASING A
      • 28 BACK CASING A

*Pieces we will modify

       FRONT LENGTH, CENTER FRONT, NECKLINE, POCKETS AND CASING

On the front piece (1) of view C : draw the neckline and the center front of view A. On the front piece (1) of view C, draw the placements of the pockets flaps (22) (24), the pockets (23) & (25) and the front casing (27) of view A.

BACK LENGTH, NECKLINE AND CASING

On the back piece (2) of view C, draw the neckline and the casing of view A.

FRONT FACING LENGTH, NECKLINE AND CENTER FRONT

On the front facing piece (4) of view C : draw the neckline and center front of view A.

FRONT BUTTON PLACKET

Lengthen the front button placket piece (21) of view A to match the length of the new front piece.

ZIPPER PLACKET LENGTH

Lengthen the zipper placket piece (18) of view A to match the length of the new front piece.

HACK #3

Aviator style jacket



You’ll need the following pieces to make this version :

  • 1  FRONT B*+ C*
  • 2  BACK B*+ C*
  • 3  SLEEVE C
  • 4  FRONT FACING B*+ C*
  • 5  BACK FACING C
  • 6  SLEEVE FACING C
  • 7  FRONT LINING B
  • 8  BACK LINING B
  • 9  SLEEVE LINING B
  • 10  SIDE HOOD C
  • 11  BACK HOOD C
  • 12  SIDE HOOD LINING C
  • 13  BACK HOOD LINING C
  • 14  FRONT HOOD FACING C
  • 15 BACK HOOD FACING C
  • 18  STORM SHIELD C
  • 32 GUN FLAP C
  • 33 COLLAR C
  • 34 UNDER COLLAR C
  • 35 COLLAR STAND C
  • 36 WELT C
  • 37 POCKET FACING C
  • 38 POCKET LINING C

*Pieces we will modify

    FRONT LENGTH, NECKLINE AND POCKETS

On the front piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

On the front piece of view B : draw the welt pocket placement at waist level.

BACK LENGTH AND NECKLINE

On the back piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

FRONT FACING LENGTH AND NECKLINE

On the front facing piece of view B : draw the neckline of view C.

ZIPPER GUARD

Shorten the zipper guard of view B to match the center front of the new front piece.

Have fun and create your dream jacket thanks to the free downloadable template here!
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Pregnancy in Pauline Alice patterns

Today I’m writing a special post: how to adapt your Pauline Alice patterns when you’re expecting!

You may have noticed (or not) that I’m expecting a baby for Fall (thanks to everyone who congratulated me!). My closet is quite limited right now as most of my clothes are fitted and high waisted, so I need new outfits more adapted to my growing belly. I thought it would be nice to show you how to adapt non-maternity patterns quite easily with pretty illustrations and diagrams:

 

CAMI DRESS

This is a very easy modification: you just have to shorten the front and back bodice pieces of the Cami dress pattern.

I would then remove the back darts and replace the front ones by gathers. To make the dress easier to put on, I would remove the side zipper and cut the front skirt piece in half and continue the bodice buttonband on the skirt. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

CARME BLOUSE & PORT SHORT

In the Carme blouse Sew-along (see it here on youtube), I had already shown how to make a maternity version.

You just need to add fabric on the bodice centre front that will later be gathered and stitched to the front yoke as the original version.

 

The Port short is a model that will ask for a more complex modification.

You’ll need to add a jersey waistband to the short. You need to redraw the front pieces (front and pockets). Draw a curve from the side to the center front (the seat is shortened by about 15 cm – this measure will vary depending on your belly, make sure to make a toile before). You won’t need the zipper fly pieces as the shorts will be pulled on, fly will only be decorative. Place the pockets (view A or B) over the new front piece and draw the curve on the pockets as well.

For the jersey waistband, we’ll cut two front and two back waistbands (size is to be adapted to your belly). The bottom edge should measure the same as the short’s new waistline with the cruve. Stitch the front and back waistbands at the sides and then both waistbands together at the top edge. Turn with the right sides out and stitch a line about 2 cm below the top edge to created a channel and insert an elastic. Stitch the waistband to the short. You can now pull the short on and the jersey waistband will be very confortable all the way through pregnancy.

 

MALVAROSA DRESS

No need to change anything on the Malvarosa dress as it’s loose shape makes it perfect for maternity.

 

ELIANA DRESS

That’s the first dress I thought of hacking : if you move the elastic waistband up, you’ll have the perfect maternity dress, from the first to the third trimester.

You need to shorten the Eliana dress bodice front and back pieces, without removing the 3 cm seam allowances at the waist. For the skirt, no need to change the waist but you might want to lengthen it a little bit. As the waistline is now under the bust, I would remove the pockets but they can also be lowered if you wish to keep them.

 

REINA SHIRT / DRESS

No modification needed for the Reina shirt thanks to the loose shape and gathers around the bust. But I want to lengthen it and try to make a dress out of it.

 

XEREA DRESS

By replacing the fold on view B of the Xerea dress by soft gathers, you’ll get a pretty maternity dress that you’ll also be able to wear after baby’s arrival.

 

DENIA BLOUSE & ROSARI SKIRT

The Denia blouse pattern doesn’t need any change. It will be perfect for summer temperatures.

Just as the Port short, the Rosari skirt will need a jersey waistband to be worn as a maternity skirt.

Check out the Port modifications above. You don’t need to make the buttonholes, as the skirt won’t be opened, you can stitch the buttons directly over the buttonbands. Pockets will nedd to be lowered slightly.

 

ALDAIA DRESS

The Aldaia dress is designed for jersey fabrics, perfect when your belly is getting rounder every day.

I would shorten the bodice pieces (all three views are compatibles) under the bust and remove the back darts. For the skirt, I recommand using view B, without seams, and lengthen the skirt at the waist. Make sure you choose a fabric with enough stretch ad why not add some soft gathers on the front around the waist?

 

This is my Pauline Alice maternity wardrobe! I don’t know if I’ll have the time to test all the variations but this is definitely my summer sewing plan. I’m about to start the Cami dress in white cotton, I’ll let you know how that works out.

What about you? What’s your favourite maternity pattern? Which of these do you like the most?

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