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pauline alice patterns

Camí Sew-Along: Buttonholes
When I went sewing machine shopping, I knew that one of the main feature I wanted was automatic buttonholes. I love that feature!
So let’s make the buttonholes and sew the buttons on our dress today!
The buttonholes/buttons on the pictures are inversed: buttonholes should be on the right side and buttons on the left. I had to make the change because of the way the collar way standing. Please follow the instructions and sorry for the confusion.
BUTTONHOLES
cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-11.Mark the buttonholes on the right side and the buttons on the left side. Mark the buttonhole and button on the under collar as well.

cami-sew-along-buttonholes-pattern-22.Stitch the buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.
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3.Open the buttonholes with your seam ripper. Be careful not the cut the threads!

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4.Overlap the buttonhole placket over the button placket and baste the edge. The bodice is now opened only on the left side (where we are going to insert the zipper).
Have a great week end (I’ll be having a great one at a wedding!) and see you on Monday for sewing the skirt up and attaching it to the bodice!
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Camí Sew-Along: the Collar

 

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As I have already made a tutorial on how to sew a shirt collar, here is the link to see it. The tutorial follows the exact same steps, I even used the Camí dress pattern to draw the shirt collar pieces 😉
Good luck! Not that it’s very complicated but you need to be careful and concentrated.

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Version B – Making the Cuffs
I hope you had a nice strong cup of coffee or tea this morning as today’s post is a tough one! Let’s begin!
STITCH THE CUFF
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-11.Take your two cuff pieces, already interfaced and place them with right side together. Make sure the opening is marked (I drew only the slit but you can draw the whole box as in the pattern, it’s easier).
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2.Pin and stitch the cuff, pivoting around the opening. It’s best to use a short length stitch (I used nº 2 for example).

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3.Cut carefully the opening between the stitches. At the end, cut a V-shape the closest possible to the stitch line to the angles like in the picture. Be careful not to cut the stitches!

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4.Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners very close to the angles.

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5.Open the cuff and pin together the side seams, with right side together. No need to turn the cuff inside out. Stitch.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs66.Press the seam open.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs77.Turn the cuff inside out and press.
JOIN THE CUFF TO THE SLEEVE

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs8cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs9cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs10
cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs111. Now comes the tricky step: matching the cuff seam and the sleeve seam, pin the cuff inside the sleeve hem. Look carefully at the pictures and try before sewing. We will stitch the cuff like we would stitch bias binding. So the cuff right side is against the sleeve wrong side (believe me, try it! I inserted my first cuff on the wrong side.) When you have pinned it, stitch. Trim the seam allowances and press toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs12cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs132. Take the cuff out of the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff.

cami-sew-along-version-b-making-cuffs-143. Topstitch!

4. And repeat on the other side of course… What do you think? Easy or difficult?

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Camí Sew-Along: Setting the Sleeves In
How is the Sew-Along going? You have been able to try your bodice now and we are now going to make the sleeves and set them in the armhole. This step is the same for A and B version, but I chose the 3/4 sleeve length for the tutorial. If you’re making the short sleeve version, it’s exactly the same.
MARK YOUR FABRIC

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-1cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-21.The first step is to make sure you have marked your fabric correctly. Take your sleeve piece and check that you have marked: the dots for easing, the top center, the two marks indicating the back and the one mark indicating the front. Those are important in order not to set the wrong sleeve in the wrong armhole!

SLEEVE SIDE SEAM
I thought it would be a good idea to show you a new technic at the same time so I made French Seams on the sleeve side seam. I love this technic as it’s so clean and professional (and so easy!). Do you use it?

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-31.With WRONG sides together, pin the sleeve sides.

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2.Stitch at 0,6 cm (about 1/4″) from the border. To help you, this is usually the width of your regular foot. What I do is just align my presser foot to the edge of my fabric like on the picture and stitch maintaining my presser foot on the edge.

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3.Trim your seam allowances very close to the stitching line. Press the seam on one side, it’s not important which one.

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-64.Turn over, with wrong sides out and press the seam flat.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-75.Stitch the side seam again at 0,6 cm (1/4″) or the presser foot width. You will be enclosing the seam allowances, creating a clean finition. Press the seam to one side.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-8SET THE SLEEVE IN

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-91.With a long basting stitch, ease the sleeve head from one dot to the other.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-102.Match the markings (center, front and back) from the sleeve to the bodice.

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-113.When they match, pin and ease the fabric excess of the sleeve head with the basting bobin thread, making sure there is no pleats. When it fits perfectly, pin everything (don’t be afraid to over-pin!).

 

cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-12cami-sew-along-setting-sleeves-in-pattern-134.Stitch around the armhole. Make sure there are no pleats at the sleeve head.
5.Stitch another row of stitches between the first line and the edge from the front marking to the back marking. This secong row add strength to the armhole. Trim and finish your seam allowances as prefered (I binded mines with bias binding). Repeat all the steps for the other sleeve.
That’s it for today! If you are making the short sleeve version, you just to hem your sleeves and you’re done! For the cuffs, let’s continue on Monday. Have a great week end!
And if you missed one step, here they are.
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Camí Sew-Along: Option – Adding a Breast Pocket
I love pockets for their practicality and the detail they add to any simple design. I thought it would be nice to add an optional pocket template for the Camí dress to give it a more casual look.
Find the link to download the pocket pattern template below. Print it with NO scaling like the pattern, the seam allowances are also included in the pattern (1,5 cm or 5/8″).
cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-11.Cut your pocket piece and mark the folding lines. First, fold the seam allowances all around the pocket edges and press. You can baste or even stitch.
Fold twice the top of the pocket following the folding lines and stitch close to the fold line.

cami-sew-along-option-adding-breast-pocket-22.Place the pocket over the bodice front left side and pin it matching the pocket bottom to the dart leg. Adjust the height as prefered. Mine is situated just over the bust apex.

When you are happy with the place, stitch around the pocket, leaving the pocket top open.
Are you going to add the pocket? If you have missed a step, here is the schedule.

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Camí Sew-Along: Sewing the Bodice

Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!

BODICE FRONT DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-11.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-22.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-33.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-44.Press the dart toward the center.

5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.

BODICE BACK DARTS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-51.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-62.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.

SIDE SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-71.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-82.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-93.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).

SHOULDER SEAMS

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-101.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.

BUTTON PLACKET

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-111.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-122.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.

comi-sew-along-sewing-bodice-pattern-133.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.

That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!

 

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Camí Sew-Along: Interfacing the Collar, Cuffs and Button Placket
Edit:
I created a Camí Sew-Along flicker group so you can post pictures of your on-going project, show your fabric… But if you have any questions, better ask them here so everybody can see the answer!
And at the end of the Sew-Along, send me a picture of your finished dress and we’ll make a big finish with all your creations!
Now that you have made your muslin and the needed alterations to your pattern, it’s time to cut your fabric (after having washed and pressed previously to avoid any shrinkage).
We’ll prepare the pieces that need to be interfaced.
A word on interfacing: it should always match in weight your fabric, or be lighter. As the fabrics recommended for the Camí dress are light, use a lightweight interfacing. I like to use light weft interfacing (it’s a mix between knit and woven interfacing: it has the stability of woven interfacing but still has the drapeability of the knit). It’s available almost everywhere. Here’s a picture of how it looks (it also comes in black):
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
1. Cut your collar pieces on the interfacing: 2 under collar pieces and 2 upper collar pieces. Place them over their corresponding fabric piece, the interfacing glue facing the fabric wrong side. Take your iron, spritz a little of water over the piece and steam-press the interfacing to the fabric. You might want to use a press-cloth just in case some glue get onto your iron. Repeat for the other collar pieces.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
2.The same goes for the cuffs. Cut the 4 cuff pieces (sorry, only picture of 2), put them over the fabric and steam-press.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
3.Now for the button placket, cut 2 strips of interfacing of 3×39 cm (or 1,2″x15,3″). They correspond to the pattern piece A.
Camí dress pattern, sewing pattern, shirt dress, pauline alice, interfacing, weft interfacing, collar, cuff, button placket
4.Take your bodice front, wrong side facing up, and place the interfacing strip (glue facing down) between the marks. Steam-press. Repeat on the other side.
There you go! Wednesday we’ll actually start sewing our bodice. I remind you that you can find the schedule and the links to the previous Sew-Along posts here.
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Camí Sew-Along: Muslin and Adjustments

Have you found your fabric for the Camí Sew-Along?

Well, you still have this week end to go shopping as today you are supposed to be making your muslin and we’ll see how to make the basic adjustments before cutting the “real” fabric.

You might be tempted to jump ahead and start directly with your final dress but it’s highly recommended to make a muslin. The bodice with one sleeve is enough to see if the fit is correct, no need for the skirt or the collar. And then you can decide if you need any of the following adjustments.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINE

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-191.If the waist line of the muslin doesn’t hit at your natural waist, you might want to lengthen or shorten the bodice. First, you’ll need to add a lengthen/shorten line. It’s not on the pattern but it can be added at the 3f mark.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-22.To lengthen the bodice, add the length you need and paste your pattern over a piece of paper, keeping the lines parallels.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-33.To shorten the bodice, bring the pieces over each other and paste.

4.Remember to report the change you made to the front bodice to the back pattern pice as well. The last button mark is going to move as well: move it up or down respecting the space between each button mark.

SHOULDER ADJUSTMENTS

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-41.Draw the seam allowance line around the armhole (1,5 cm or 5/8″).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-52.Draw the other seam allowance line at the shoulder (black). Join the shoulder center to the armhole line: red line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-63.Draw a line from the shoulder angle to the red line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-74.Cut the red lines making sure not to cut the black line. You now have a pivot point.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-8cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-95.To widen the shoulder, add the desired ease and paste over a piece of paper. To narrow the shoulder, bring the pattern pieces over and paste. Report changes on the back pattern piece.

FULL / SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-101.Draw the bust apex about 2 cm (0,8″) above the dart point.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-122.Draw 2 lines (in red) from the bust apex: one going to the middle of the dart legs and the other one  going to the armhole (I joined mine to the triangle mark).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-133.Draw a line (in green) parallel to the lengthen/shorten line if you have made it (if not, parallel to the 2f cutting line).

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-154.Cut the red line up to the black armhole line.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-165.Cut the green line leaving it attached by 1 cm (3/8″) approx.

cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-17cami-sew-along-muslin-adjustments-sewing-pattern-186.Cut along the lengthen/shorten line to the red line. To make a Full Bust Adjustment, add the desired ease and match the pattern pieces. Paste them on paper and redraw the lines.

To make a Small Bust Adjusment, remove the needed ease, paste together and redraw the lines.

Remember to apply the changes to the back pattern piece and move the last button mark.

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Camí Dress Sew-Along 1 – Fabric inspiration
Let’s begin the Camí dress Sew-Along with the fabric selection.
The pattern specifies that you choose among cotton poplin, cotton sateen, linen, chambray, a cotton-silk blend or even a lightweight wool blend.
When buying your fabric, you should take into account the following points:
  • Are you going to make the short or 3/4 length sleeves? For the short sleeves version, a lighter fabric might be more appropriate for the warm weather and easier to pair with a cardigan later. If you intent to make the 3/4 sleeves, what about a chambray or flanel version to make the transition into the colder months.
  • You also want a fabric with a little of structure for the collar (and cuffs if you are making them). You are going to interface your fabric but imagine making your collar in chiffon… not great. But a cotton voile would be structured enough while still being very light, a nice compromise.
  • The skirt of the Camí dress is designed to be very full. I know that some of you are afraid gathers at the waist will add volume to that area. Using a lightweight fabric with a nice drape is the perfect way to still have volume at the hem but not at the waist. Stay away from stiff quilting cotton!
cami-dress-sew-along-fabric-inspiration-pattern-1I love shopping for fabric! I have to admit that’s the only shopping I’m doing lately as I haven’t bought any clothes for at least 2 years (can’t say I’m saving any money though!). While designing the Camí dress, I came accross a few fabrics I thought would look nice and brought them back home.
You can also look at the dresses made by the pattern testers for fabric inspiration: part 1 and part 2.

 

cami-dress-sew-along-fabric-inspiration-pattern-2This fabric I actually had before but I think it would look beautiful paired with the Camí dress pattern. It would make a very romantic dress. How about changing the shirt collar for a peter pan collar for a more 1950’s retro look? It’s a cotton poplin with a nice drape, a little bit of stretch and it’s very soft to the touch.

 

cami-dress-sew-along-fabric-inspiration-pattern-3Gingham of course! There were 3 pattern testers versions made of gingham and they looked amazing. This one has bigger squares and would make such a cute summer dress with the short sleeves (very Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz!). There is a lot of variations possible: how about playing with the grainline for some pattern pieces? Or changing the skirt for a circle skirt?
cami-dress-sew-along-fabric-inspiration-pattern-4With its basic dirndl skirt (2 rectangles gathered at the waist), the Camí dress allows you to play with borders. I found this white cotton-linen blend with blue flowers stripes and a larger stripe border that would look nice at the hem line. As a spring/summer version it would be so pretty and breathable, yet not too prone to wrinkle thanks to the cotton percentage.

 

cami-dress-sew-along-fabric-inspiration-pattern-5Finally, this is the fabric I am going to use for the Sew-Along. It’s a cotton fabric with little blue, red, yellow and green flowers. I will make the collar and cuffs in contrasting fabric: white cotton sateen. The one I have is a bit on the heavy side but it will do.
Let me know what fabric you are using.
Find the schedule of the Sew-Along here.

 

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