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pattern port trousers alter the crotch 2

Once again, the wonderful team of Artesane share the second part of the trousers adjustments with us! Thanks so much!

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Now that you can alter the legs of a trousers pattern in your sleep, let’s focus on altering a more difficult area : the crotch.

1/ BEFORE STARTING

MATERIAL

Material needed :

  • Your trousers pattern (front leg and back leg)
  • Pattern paper or Kraft paper (cardboard)
  • Pens in different colours
  • tape
  • scissors

HOW IS MADE THE CROTCH OF A PAIR OF TROUSERS ?

pattern port trousers alter the crotch

The crotch of a pair of trousers is the curved seam that goes from the waistband center front to the waistband center back. It is made of two parts : the rise (the less curved part) and the curve.

You can alter the rise or the curve, or both at the same time. However, we recommend starting by altering only the rise of the crotch as it’s easier to adjust and most of the time, it’s enough to modify the few issue you might have with the inseam, seat or waist area.

WHICH SOLUTION FOR WHICH PROBLEM ?

pattern port trousers alter the crotch 2

The crotch line will determine the fit of a pair of trousers. And a crotch line not adapted to your body specificities might create some issues in the following areas : seat, waist and inseam.
But don’t worry ! To each problem there’s a solution.
 
THE SEAT
 
1/ Your behind is very round (it’s too tight) : you need to widen the curve of the crotch in the back. Moreover,  if the waist tends to go down when you sit, you need to add length to the crotch at the back.
2/ Your behind is flat (there are some lines under the bottom) : you need to shorten the crotch length at the back.
 
THE WAIST
 
3/ Your belly is round (there are some lines around the belly) : you need to lengthen the rise of the crotch at the front.
4/ Your waist is very small (there are some lines just below the waist in the back) : you need to shorten the rise at the back.
 
THE INSEAM
 
6/ The inseam is too tight (There are horizontal lines) : you need to widen the curve at the front.
7/ The inseam is extremely tight (it cuts the legs and the waist) : you need to lengthen the crotch at the front and the back.
8/ The inseam is too wide (it’s too loose) : you need to shorten the crotch line at the front and at the back.
 
THE CASE OF THE ARCHED BACK
 
5/ If your back is really arched, there’s a chance your trousers waist will gape at the back. You need to shorten the crotch line at the back in a specific way that we’ll explain at the end of this post.
2/ LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN THE RISE OF THE CROTCH LINE (front and back at the same time)
 
Some of the issues (nº7 and nº8) need to alter the crotch length a few cm at the front and the back. In theses cases, you’ll apply the following method (that you need to apply on the front piece and the back piece).
LENGTHEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 3
1/ Cut your pattern piece along the hip line.
2/ Place a piece of paper below the pattern pieces. Determine how many cm you need to add and add them between the two pattern pieces (make sure the pieces stay parallels).
3/ Tape the pieces to the paper and redraw the curves of the crotch and the side.
SHORTEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 4
1/ Cut your pattern piece along the hip line.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces (make sure the pieces stay parallels).
3/ Tape the pieces to the paper and redraw the curves of the crotch and the side.
 
3 / LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN THE RISE OF THE CROTCH LINE (only at the back or the front)
 
Some of the issues (nº3 and nº4) need to alter the crotch length a few cm only at the front or the back. In theses cases, you’ll apply the following method to the front piece or the back piece.
LENGTHEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 5
1/ Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the point of the dart. Cut along the line starting from the crotch but stoping before the end. 
2/ Determine how many cm you need to add and spread the pieces according to the cm needed.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
SHORTEN THE RISE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 6
1/ Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the point of the dart. Cut along the line starting from the crotch but stoping before the end.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
4/ WIDEN OR SHORTEN THE CROTCH CURVE
WIDEN THE CURVE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 7
1/ Trace a line parallel to the grainline at the deepest of the curve. Cut along this line. 
2 / Place paper under the pattern pieces and spread the pieces apart according to the cm you need to add.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
SHORTEN THE CURVE
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 8
1/ Trace a line parallel to the grainline at the deepest of the curve. Cut along this line.
2/ Determine how many cm you need to remove and overlap the two patten pieces at the crotch.
3/ Tape the pieces and redraw the crotch line.
 
5/ THE CASE OF THE ARCHED BACK
pattern port trousers alter the crotch 9
If you have an arched back and your trousers gape at the back waist, you need to alter the length of the crotch. But we’ll modify it directly from the waist.
1/ Determine how many cm you need to remove (maximum 2 cm). 
2/ Lower the waist line on the crotch side.
3/ Redraw the waist line with a lsightly curved line instead of a straight one.
Now hopefully, you’ll be able to alter the legs or crocth of any trousers pattern to fit you perfectly ! 
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3 March, 2017 0 comment
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pattern Port Trousers

I’m very happy to welcome the lovely girls behind Artesane today on the blog for a special post. In case you don’t know Artesane, it’s an online community platform with video classes and tutorials on sewing, knitting, crocheting, bag making, embrodery, pattern making… and many more to come. I am very greatfull to Artesane to have given me the opportunity to teach a sewing class for them on how to make a tailored jacket and I hope to repeat this amazing experience with them. Classes are only available in French for the moment but be sure to check their inspirational site just the same.

Thanks to Artesane for sharing here a great tutorial on how to alter a trousers pattern. That will be very useful for the Port trousers pattern! Let’s start!

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TROUSERS ALTERATIONS

If there’s one type of pattern that’s difficult to standarize, it has got to be trousers. Everybody has got different body types and it’s quite rare not to have to alter a trousers pattern. That’s why we often have a favorite store-bought trousers brand or model ! It’s not easy to find a ready-to-wear model that fits perfectly at first try.

The best thing would be to make a muslin for every model that you like and think could be a go-to pattern.

Once this pattern is altered and fitted, you’ll have a tailored trousers pattern and will be able to use it again and again !

1/ Before starting

Material needed :

  • Your trousers pattern (front leg and back leg)
  • Pattern paper or Kraft paper (cardboard)
  • Pens in different colours
  • tape
  • scissors

How is made a pair of trousers ?

Trousers are made of two legs, a waistband and a type of closure (a fly for example).

Each leg is made of a front piece and a back piece. The back pieces is usually bigger than the front one. The back crotch is longer and curvier (that’s where our bum goes !).

Before starting any alteration, you need to add five reference lines on your pattern :

  •  waist line
  •  hip line (measure at the largest point)
  •  inseam line (it corresponds to the end of the seat)
  •  knee line
  •  hem line

ENSchemas1

Once you’ve added these lines to your pattern, it’s time to alter the trousers leg (there’ll be a second post on how to alter the crotch as it’s a vast subject).

So apart from the crotch adjustment, once you’ve made your muslim, you can see various type of issues :

– your trousers are too long o too short ; you have thus to lengthen or shorten the trousers leg ;

– your trousers are too wide or too small around the waist ; you have to adjust the waist ;

– your trousers are too wide at the hips or on the contrary, they’re too tight and uncomfortable ; you need to alter the trousers at the hips ;

2/ Lengthen or shorten the trousers legs

The technics used to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece are the same for any kind of garments. But still, let’s have a little reminder.

HOW TO SHORTEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas3

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove. Above the shorten/lengthen line on the pattern, trace a parallel line at X cm.

2/ Folding the pattern piece, overlap the two lines.

3/ Tape the fold close.

HOW TO LENGTHEN A PATTERN PIECE ?

ENSchemas4

1/ Cut the pattern piece along the shorten/lengthen line.

2/ Place a new piece of paper below the two pattern pieces. Determinate how many cm you need to add and spread the two pieces apart X cm (make sure the lines stay parallel).

3/ Tape the two pieces to the paper and join the two pieces together.

WHERE TO PLACE THE SHORTEN/LENGTHEN LINES ON A TROUSERS LEG
pattern Port Trousers 4

Now that we’ve seen the techniques, the important thing is to know where to apply them. Indeed, if you were to lengthen a trousers leg at the wrong place, there’s a good chance the general shape will get distorted.

1/ If the shortening/lengthening is small (up to 3 cm), the line has to be placed just above the knee (line 1).

2/ If the alteration is more important, it needs to be made in two places. Divide the length you have to add or remove from the leg in two. Then draw two adjustment lines above and below the knee (line 1 & 2).

If the alteration is minimal, you can do it at the hem line.

3/ Widen or tighten at waist

The secret of a great waist adjustment resides in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the shape of the trousers. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 8 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ Extend the waist line on both sides of the pattern piece. Add X cm to both sides (see diagram below).

5/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE WAIST ?

pattern Port Trousers 5

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the waist.

2/ Divide by 8. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ At the waist line, remove X cm on both sides of the pattern piece (see diagram below).

4/ From these marks, trace the new stitching lines joining gradually the existing ones. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

4/ Widen or tighten at hips

Again, the secret of a great hip adjustment is in distribution ! The more you distribute evenly the cm you have to add or remove, the less you’re going to change or distort the general shape of the garment. And this is even more true if the adjustment is important ! You’re going to add or remove the cm needed on both sides of each front and back leg, meaning at 4 different places !

HOW TO WIDEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 6

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to add at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ Place some paper below your pattern piece.

4/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll extend the hip line a few cm. Add X cm (see diagram above).

5/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

HOW TO TIGHTEN THE HIPS ?

pattern Port Trousers 7

1/ You need to determinate how many cm you need to remove at the hips.

2/ Divide by 4. The end result is X cm.

This adjustment applies to both the front and back pieces (make sure you don’t forget one of the two pieces!) :

3/ On the exterior side of the leg, we’ll remove X cm to the hip line (see diagram above).

4/ From this mark, trace the new stitching line joining gradually the existing one from waist to hem. The key is to draw progressively the new line so that we don’t get any « bump ».

Be careful, if the trousers have a straight leg, you have to join the new hip line to the waist but you should extend the leg in a straight line to the hem, parallel to the previous stitching line.

With these techniques, you’ll be able to adjust the legs of your favourite trousers pattern (length, waist or hips) ! We’ll see how to adjust the inseam and the crotch as well as how to alter the seat very soon.

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THANKS ARTESANE!

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3 March, 2017 0 comment
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Today, let’s learn how to sew a fly front zipper on your Port trousers. Sewing the zippers on trousers is often one of the most feared step but it really shouldn’t. With this step-by-step photo tutorial, you’ll see it’s actually quite easy!

 

1. These are the pieces you’ll need to install the zipper:
-Fronts x 2 in main fabric
-Fly facings x 1 in main fabric and interfacing (some patterns have the fly facing included in the front piece, like the Sorell trousers for example, and this tutorial is going to be easier to apply in this case).
-Fly shield x 1 in main fabric and interfacing
-Zipper 15 cm (6″) long (it can be longer as in this tutorial)

 

2. Finish the center front seam of the front pieces with serger or zigzag stitch. Repport your marks on the front pieces.

 

3. With right sides together, pin the front pieces together at the center front seam.
4. Stitch from the inseam to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

5. Interface the fly facing piece.
6. Finish the curved seam.

 

7. Pin the fly facing to the left side front piece (when you wear the trousers) with right sides together.
8. Stitch together from the top edge to the dot mark with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.

 

9. Open the fly facing. Trim and press the seam allowances toward the front.
Place the zipper face down (with the teeth toward the fabric) over the zipper facing, with the zipper ribbon touching the front seam. The zipper end should arrive just above the dot mark.
10. Stitch the left side of the zipper ribbon to the fly facing. Turn the facing in and press lightly.

 

11. Interface the fly shield piece.
12. Fold it in half lengthwise and stitch the bottom edge with a 1,5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.
13. Turn the fly shield inside out, press and finish the edge with a serger or zigzag stitch.

 

14. Press the right side front piece (when you wear the trousers) 0,5 cm (1/4″) toward the inside.
15. Baste or pin the zipper to the folded edge.
16. Baste or pin the fly shield to the zipper.
17. Stitch very close to the folded edge throught all layers (front, zipper and fly shield) from the top edge to the dot mark.

18. Pin the fly shield out of the way so that it won’t get caught when we sew the fly topstitch.

 

19. Close the zipper (but don’t cut it yet). Place the trousers front correctly and draw the topstitching line (you can use the front pattern piece or the fly facing as guide).
20. Stitch the fly topstitching throught both layers (front and fly facing).

 

21. Unpin the fly shield and place it over the zipper. Pin in place again.
22. Make bar tacks to reinforce the fly: one at the bottom of the topstitching line and one at the curve. This time make sure you stitch through the fly shield as well.

 

23. There you go, an easy way to insert a fly front zipper!
Tip: wait until you attach the waistband to cut the zipper!

3 March, 2017 0 comment
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Today we’ll see how to adjust sleeve width.
I received some emails recently about how to increase the width of the Xerea dress sleeves and I thought it would be nice to prepare a tutorial. This is something you can apply to every “one piece” sleeves.
tuto sleeveMethod 1.
Trace two perpendicular lines accross the sleeve: one from armhole bas to armhole base and the other from the sleeve cap to the hem (in red here).
Cut along these lines and spread the sides apart, making sure the bases are still touching at the extremities. Add the cm you need in the center and tape together your new sleeve piece. The good thing about this method is that the sleeve armhole is not modified.Method 2.
On one side of the sleeve, trace a line perpendicular to the grainline starting from the armhole base and about 4-5 cm long (about 2″). From this point, draw a perpendicular line to the hem. Repeat on the other side.
Cut along the lines you just traced and slash the piece away from the sleeve the extra cm you need. Tape together and redraw the sleeve curve if needed. With this method, you’ll add width to the sleeve as well as to the sleeve armhole. You’ll need to ease the sleeve more.I hope that was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions.
PS: by the way, the sleeve width on the larger sizes of the Xerea dress has been increased for the PDF pattern.

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20 January, 2016 1 comment
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Holiday season has started and it means Party!!! Have you thought about your party dress for the holidays? Mine is going to be a velvet and polka dot tulle Seda Dress. And while sewing it, I took pictures of the minor changes I made in order to show you some variations you might want to try on your own version of the Seda dress.
So today, we’ll see how to add boning to the Off-the-shoulder version, View A.

View A of the Seda dress emphasizes the shoulders and neckline, I think it’s very sensual and quite sexy if you ask me. The dress is designed to work without added structure but depending on your fabric and your bust size, you may feel more comfortable adding boning to the bodice of the Seda dress View A.If your fabric is light and doesn’t have enough body, I would recommend adding an underlining. To underline the bodice, you can use muslin fabric, cotton batiste or silk organza (choosing the right underlining will depend on your fashion fabric, underlining should always be lighter in weight). Cut the bodice pieces out the underlining and transfer all the markings (you don’t need to mark the main fabric). Baste the fashion fabric and the underlining together, you can then use them as one piece.

Underlining will help structure the bodice of the dress, it will also prevent darts to be seen from the right side if your fabric is very light and will minimize wrinkles. And for our purpose, it will prevent to boning to show throught this double layers of fabric.So now on to the boning!

There are different types of boning, here the ones you’re most likely to find at your notion store:

  1. Plastic boning. Sold by the meter/yard.
  2. Steel boning. Either flat or spiral like in the above picture. Usually sold in precut length.
  3. Rigilene boning. Can be stitch directly on fabric. Sold by the meter/yard.You’ll need approximatively two 28 cm (11″) boning for the front bodice and two 26 (10 1/2″) for the back, both about 1 cm wide (3/8″).
If you’re using plastic or steel boning, you’ll also need 1,10 meter (1 yd 1 ft) of bias binding, wider than your boning. So if you’re using a 1 cm boning, a 1,5 cm wide bias binding will leave enough room for the boning to move a little bit (attention, you don’t want it to move too much either).Plastic and steel boning insertionOn this illustration, you’ll see how to apply boning to the Seda dress bodice.
-Cut your bodice pieces from your lining fabric and stitch the darts on the front and back pieces. Press them as indicated in the instructions.
-Place the bias binding on the wrong side of the lining and pin it over the waist darts, going up to the neckline. Fold the top end of the binding to the wrong side. Make sure the top edge of the binding is below the neckline seam allowance (make it stop about 2 cm (3/4″) below the edge so it won’t get caught when you sew the lining to the main fabric).
-Stitch along the edge of the bias binding, going up and down, stitching very very close to the edges.
-Insert boning into the channel you created with the bias binding. Make sure your boning stops about 2 cm (3/4″) above the waistline edge. Stitch the bottom edge of the bias binding to prevent boning from moving.Rigilene boning insertionWith Rigilene boning, you’re going to pin the boning directly on the wrong side of the lining over the darts, as explained for the bias binding previously. You can melt both ends of the Rigilene so it won’t punch through the fabric (or stitch a piece of fabric over the ends). Make sure the boning stop about 2 cm (3/4″) from the neckline and waistline edges.
Stitch over the boning, on each side.Now you are ready to follow the Seda dress instructions just as they come.
Let me know if you have a question.
Next week I’ll show you how to add lining to View B of the Seda dress + some tips on sewing with velvet..

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16 December, 2015 1 comment
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I’ve been meaning to write a tutorial on how to sew the pockets of the Xerea dress for quite some time now. I know that some of you also requested it as these pockets are not set the usual way and they can be tricky.
So here we go, a step-by-step photo tutorial on the Xerea pockets:xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-1Here are the pieces involded in the pocket construction:
– 1 Front (it can either from view A or view B. If you’re making view A, remember to stitch the dart before).
– 3 Side Front
– 7 Pocket
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-21. With right sides together, pin the pocket (7) to the front (1), matching the marks.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-32. Stitch along the pocket curve. Notch the seam allowances. Clip the seam allowances at the top mark.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-43. Press the pocket seam flat (you can understitch the seam allowance if you want). Open the pocket like on the picture.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-5xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-64. We are going to stitch the side front (3) to the front/pocket piece. With right sides together, pin the side front (3) to the front/pocket. Start pinning from the top, side front to front and when you reach the pocket, continue to pin to the pocket curve as if it was one unique piece, matching the marks. Stitch.
xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-7xerea-pocket-tutorial-sewing-pattern-85. Place the pocket inside and press the pocket opening flat and the seam allowances toward the front. Trim and finish them.I hope this will help you. It’s a difficult step to photograph but if you make a pratice pocket before sewing your Xerea, I’m sure it will be easier to understand.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Best,pauline-sewing-pattern
27 July, 2015 11 comments
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I didn’t think I would have to make a tutorial for the Xerea dress but yesterday i received 2 emails from seamstresses who had trouble with the back yoke of the pattern. They told me it was too short for the back piece and didn’t match at the shoulders.
After checking the pattern, I understood where the confusion came from: the pattern pieces are correct but it would be easy to get that difference in length if you didn’t sew the bias binding just as instructed.
So let’s see how you should attach the bias binding on the Xerea dress neckline.

 

bias1Here is the illustration for this step in the instructions booklet. The instructions tell you to “finish the neckline with bias binding: with right sides together, pin the bias binding to the neckline matching the edges. Stitch on the first fold line. Fold the bias binding to the inside twice and edgestitch.”In pictures, this would look like that:

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-1Here is your bias binding: double fold and a pretty normal width, here approx. 2,5 cm (1″) when completely open.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-2First, pin the bias binding on the neckline, with right sides together (oups, my fabric is upside down, make sure yours is with right sides together!). The bias binding raw edge should match the fabric raw edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-3Then stitch inside the first fold line crease. This should be between 0,3 and 0,5 cm (1/8″ and 3/16″) from the edge.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-4How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-5How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-6Fold the bias over the seam allowances along the center fold and then fold it again to the inside. Press. Edgestitch.
The bias binding is stitched on the inside of the neckline and is now invisible. This will give you a very narrow seam allowance around the neckline and the back yoke seams are matching correctly in the back.
How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-7How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-8You can also fold the bias binding only once to the inside. This will give you more structure to the hem, but I would recommend this only for the sleeve and dress hem, not the neckline.
Another possibility would be to make the bias binding a decorative part of the dress and make it visible on the neckline.

How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-9How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-10How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-11How-sew-bias-binding-Xerea-neckline-12Pin the bias binding to the neckline, matching the raw edges. I like to pin it to the wrong side but this is a personal preference, you can also pin it right sides together. Stitch inside the first fold line crease. Fold the bias binding over the seam allowances to cover them and edgestitch (make sure your binding covers the first line of stitching you did). This would look nice with a constrating color binding.Please let me know if you have any questions.

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16 June, 2015 1 comment
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I would like to start this post with an giant THANK YOU!
Thank you to all of you who bought the new patterns, the Sorell trousers and the Xerea dress! I’m so happy (and relieved) that you like them!And Thank you to my testers! I’m so grateful for your help, your advices on the design and instructions… Without you all, I wouldn’t have been able to release these new patterns!And now, let’s talk about the Sorell trousers! Again!
I know sewing trousers can be intimidating: what with the fly, the pockets, the waistband… so many details that can go wrong.
I knew a step-by-step photo tutorial would be the perfect support for this pattern and that many beginners would feel better with extra pictures and instructions.You can download the Sorell trousers Tutorial here (in English).If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comment section below.
Want some ideas for your Sorell trousers? Check out my inspiration board on Pinterest.

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15 June, 2015 2 comments
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Last week, we were seeing how to make a biker jacket using the Quart coat pattern and I can finally show you the finished jacket.
The inspiration for this variation was this Kristen jacket by Iro:
Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-1
Kristen jacket by Iro
Instead of the grey jersey fabric, I chose one of my stock I’d been keeping for more than two years. This bouclé tweed is from Linton (official supplier of Chanel) and I was waiting for the perfect idea to use it. I’m glad I kept it as I really like the constrast between the “lady” fabric and the rock’n roll shape of the biker jacket.
Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-2Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-3Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-4
I interfaced all the jacket pieces with a light weft interfacing as the tweed is quite loosely woven. As I explained in the previous post, I just cut the pattern pieces above hip level and used a separable metallic zipper instead of the buttonholes.
You can find the tutorial to make the biker version here: Quart biker jacket tutorial.
Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-5Quart-Coat-pattern-variation-finished-biker-jacket-sewing-6
In the end, I’m very happy about the way this jacket turned out. It’s easy to wear, comfortable and the fabric is so pretty. I wore it everyday on my trip to Paris. If you are making this version, don’t hesitate to send me pictures or leave a comment.
Have a great week!

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23 February, 2015 38 comments
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Today, I want to show you a new variation for the Quart coat pattern. I don’t know about you, but I like to use the same patterns multiple times. If you want to make a motocycle style jacket like this Iro number, here is the tutorial.
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What I’ve been dreaming of: Kristen jacket by Iro.

You’ll need a 50 cm (20″) separable metallic zipper, a ruler, a pencil and your Quart pattern pieces.Take your main pattern pieces: front, back and side. You’ll need to decide the length of the jacket, for mine I drew the cutting line about 10 cm (4″) below the waistline mark, seam allowances included. Do the same for the lining and the front facing. Draw new pocket marks, approx. centered around the waistline.

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Stitch the collar to the jacket and baste one side of the zipper to the front piece and collar, with the teeth at 1,7 cm (3/4″) from the edge. Follow the instructions and at step 37, sticth the whole facing to the jacket with right sides together, enclosing the zipper in the seam.
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The other ziper side is simply stitch directly on the front piece and collar. In order to know where to place it, overlap the front pieces matching the grainline and mark where the zipper should meet (in red in the illustration). Baste the zipper to the front and collar and stitch with a zipper foot.

quart-coat-pattern-variation-transform-into-zipped-biker-jacket-4quart-coat-pattern-variation-transform-into-zipped-biker-jacket-5To add a leather welt to the pockets, cut 2 pieces of leather of 10 x 16 cm (4″ x 6 1/4″) and fold them vertically. Stitch the extremities together and turn inside out. Place the welt between the pocket marks on the front piece and stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge. Redraw a new pocket (see the illustration above) and place hem over the welt and the pocket marks on the side piece. Stitch the pockets according to the instructions. Stitch the welt side to the side piece.

 

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I’ll show you the finished jacket very soon (I’ll take advantage of a trip to Paris for a fair to take the pictures). By the way, printed patterns orders made between February 14th and 19th will be shipped on Friday 20th, thanks for your understanding.

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12 February, 2015 20 comments
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I know a few of you have requested a tutorial on how to sew the sleeve vent for the Carme blouse pattern. I wrote one a couple of months ago for Craftsy so I thought it would be nice to share it here as well (with translation).
This tutorial might come in handy if you’re making the new Eliana dress pattern as this is the technique used to make the front/back opening on the bodice.
It’s quite easy and produces such great results. If you are making a blouse or shirt, using sheer or lightweight fabric and want to add a vent to a one-piece sleeve or an opening on the bodice, this tutorial definitely is for you!

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-1Here’s how to sew an easy vent with binding!

Supplies:

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-2You’ll need your fabric piece (sleeve or bodice) and a strip of fabric cut on grain twice as long as your opening and about 1″ large (you can also use bias binding, just know that it may not sit as flat as on grain fabric).

Step 1:
Cut the opening.

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-3Step 2:
With right sides facing you, pin the sleeve/bodice opening and the vent together. The center of the sleeve/bodice opening will sit about 1/4″ from the vent edge, this will account for the pivot/shit of fabric.

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Step 3:Stitch 1/4″ from the edge. When you reach the center, put the needle down, lift the foot and pivot the fabric to the back. Make sure there is no fold at the corner: the stitching line is just barely on the sleeve/bodice.
Then continue until the end.

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Step 4:
Press the seam allowance toward the vent. Then fold the other edge of the vent by 1/4″ and press.
Fold the vent over the seam allowances. The folded edge of the vent should sit just over the stitching line. Pin in place.

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Step 5:
Edgestitch. Remember to pivot when you reach the center.

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-9Here is how it looks from the right side:

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-10Step 6:
Fold the vent with right sides together. Stitch diagonally across the end, it will keep the vent inside and flat.

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Press the vent to one side.

tutorial-easy-binding-vent-sewing-pattern-13There you go! Now you can add cuffs or hem your sleeves for the Carme and stitch the bias binding neckline on the Eliana.

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29 January, 2015 11 comments
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Here it is, the Quart coat tutorial!

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Clic here to download the PDF of the tutorial.Clic here to download the wind flaps variation.

Download the PDF files on your computer and print the flaps variation at full scale. Access web tutorial from the tutorial PDF, clicking on the coloured link.

quart-coat-tutorial-sewing-pattern-2quart-coat-tutorial-sewing-pattern-3If you have any question, leave them in the comment section below.Thank you!

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8 January, 2015 34 comments
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